[DuckTruck]

Tom.....my point exactly. i am glad to see someone understands my "obvious" theory.

also, many other specific vehicle factors come into play when examining what will work or will not: wheel width, offset, tire width, tire height, knuckle lift vs. full diff. drop, and track width.

thus, that is why i dont think Tim's argument is conclusive (no offense to him....Lord knows i respect his knowledge and definately don't want for this thread or any others "to go there"), but i do feel he is comparing two different lift strategies based upon his experience with only one.

i have owned many lifted vehicles. with that said, my 2 door tahoe (college rig) for instance had a 6" rough country and 35"s on 15x10 wheels. that was all that lift could clear and still function off road. it looked great, but when compared to a later 2 door tahoe i owned (law school) which only had a 3" body lift, cranked t-bars, and add-a-leafs in the rear, i netted a smaller amount of lift, but ran bigger tires (36" TSL's and later 37" Boggers), had more ground clearance (due to nothing being dropped in the front suspension--as tom mentioned), and was more capable off road because of all these factors.

therefore, if running a bigger tire, having more ground clearance, perfecting the stock suspension setup via quality pieces, and becoming more capable off-road is "lame" and/or "worthless"....well then sign me and my truck up!

DUCK