CoolCharger Suoercharger has a boo boo.

[H2NY]

Well i think the impeller on my supercharger is toast. I purchased the hummer with this installed but not hooked up. took it apart tonight and about 8 pieces of the impeller fell out when the case was removed. Belts and bearings seem fine though. Anyone have any experience with Coolcharger/Powerdyne chargers?

[Humdingah]

That's gonna leave a mark...

[H2 Ranger]

I think I would be concerned about where the fractured impeller chips went.... do a compression and leakdown test on the engine, as to give you a peace of mind. But I am sure the impeller can be replaced if all else is good.

[KenP]

Originally posted by H2 Ranger:
I think I would be concerned about where the fractured impeller chips went.... do a compression and leakdown test on the engine, as to give you a peace of mind. But I am sure the impeller can be replaced if all else is good.

X2!!! Where, oh where, did those little parts go?

[H2NY]

I did a compression test before i purchased it and everything checked out fine. I am having a hell of a time finding an impelle though.

[Fastest H-Town Realtor]

A-You did the comp check and it was all up to factory spec? Did you see the test/do the test?

2-If the impeller looks like that, the matching housing is FUBR'D also. Return to the manufacturer for a rebuild. MAYBE.

I have a feeling that there is more to this story than meets the eye, or that your aware of.

The blower was not hooked up, yet you bought the truck anyway? That didn't set off any bells for you?

There is no way that unit trashed itself like that w/o: A-Taking some engine parts along, and, 2-Having something metal introduced to the volute. Bearings are prolly smacked up also.

My bet is that the unit is trashed and a new unit should be on order.

[H2 Ranger]

Originally posted by H2NY:
I did a compression test before i purchased it and everything checked out fine. I am having a hell of a time finding an impelle though.

If it were me I think I would get a leakdown test performed. Compression tests can only reveal so much. Metal shavings can imbed themselves in surfaces of valves and valve seats and possibly scar surfaces of cylinders and dammage internal components. If tests show problems, you might still have time to save the engine. I would also consider an oil sample be taken to verify that no internal wear is taking place. These tests can show wear of Iron. Magnesium, Copper, etc. and really are not that expensive. Whats the readings from the tests performed so far?
On the impeller, have you contacted the Mfg.?
DPPI Inc.
Tel: 888-781-6968
Fax: 914-381-1786
email: Info@Dyno-Proven.com
Some dont like to sell individual parts but hopefully you make some progress on this issue.
Good Luck and let us know what you find.

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Leak down test would be good but, i would go ahead and pull heads You will see the damage there first most likely. If particles disentegrated into real small pieces then You most likely got crank and rod bearings that will not last a very long time. You may be able to jack engine up enough to get pan off (doubt it) and see what is in the pan unless they were real slick which would bet they are and beat You to it and cleaned pan real good with magnet after they flushd the top end with desiel fuel by pouring it through the heads with covers off. If so get a magnifying glass and look close for small dents and scratches any place You can think of. Or just keep oil in it pull supercharger off permanetly and not over pressure the engine and run it till is lays down. Then I would buy the meanest crate engine i could get My hands on as the money You would spend cleaning that old engine up would go along way to covering a new crate motor.
I hope these people were not Your friends becuase if they are, You for sure do not need any enemies. There is no way who ever owned that rig did not know all this stuff. But, if My knowledge of forced induction is in question ask a few of the older guys and lady members i will not steer You wrong. I can get more info from My forced induction guy that specializes in turbo's but mostly We deal with superchargers and I have changed My share of compressor wheels etc. Even in a huge $150,000 farm tractor if that compressor wheel came apart like that they would pull it to the JD store and pull heads and get ready to buy a $35,000 engine if they can save some stuff. uig or little the failure does the same hurt to any motor. We put superchargers and turbo's on H2's and not had a failure but, We use Magnuson Radix only.

Well I hope it is not as bad as experience is telling me it will be. But, You really may be best to pull SC off go baCK to stock intake and drive for as long as you can and may get allot of life out of it with some good breaks. If You put forced induction back on it with all the if's and possibilities You will likely loose the motor way sooner than later. If You go back stock I would hope You get some decent use out of it as the damage that would have been done is done and you cannot change that so run it and keep synthethic in it Royal Purple but do not stretch oil changes do them at the short side of interval and You can get some good breaks for a good while before you go out the big money. Get You a magnet band to go around oil filter and try to catch what is still in it plus what may come off and not let it recycle.
Well been ill and gone a while but, sure hated to get back on and see someone with this as problem My first time back in a few months.
Hope it works out for You.

TAZ

Hey KenP My bestest Buddy your counts have gone through the roof. I been handy capped do You think You could get the big head cheese to upgrade My rating anyway, consdering I have still been doing the hands on deal just not allot of on site handy work for memebers but helping members that have come to me Pm regularly. I'm going to try and be around a little more now. Just have not had many late nights to get on and visit plus Our dialup got so bad i could not stand it anymore but, i just got wireless card so i went from 24 kbps to surges of up to 200 kbps but, normally runing around 150 kbps. feel like I'm on a rocket ship.maybe the head honcho will give me a promotion as i have been hard at doing My job out on the front line with the rest of ground pounders. But, it may be asking to much but, I know Youn could vouch for me to the powers that be to give me a promotion to go with My medals i earned while out in the field for the diety etc. Been undercover caring on the war for Our team here.
Well thanks if You can get a battle field promotion put through for me. We are real close now to finishing a 9 month build obn My H2. Trying to have it ready for Dub contest in memphis and had been selected to be in the spring SEMA 1 of the 20 GM only rides to compete and the upholstery let us down with a few othr minor things and right up to the last minute We fiught working 20 hours a daty the last 2 weeks before spring SEMA to be there. We got told if We had made it very likely We would have gotten best of show as We had to do a form showing what We had and were adding etc. and there were no other H2's invited but, Us but, a H3 did get best interior. If We could have made it I think Hummer world would have been represented well. But, like I said I have not been on site much except to read as been hard at it down in the trenchs.
We have allot mof good things lined up and looking like many Mags that i will get to mention My H2 club family in as You guys inspired me to get into it more even though most of the club sare not blingers but, We got to represent where ever we can get a challeneg.
Hi all will try not to be as much of a stanger although after this it may be requested that I MIA for another 2 months or so.
III'''MMMM BBBAAACCCKKK!!!!!!!!!!!

[H2 Ranger]

I agree with you Taz on the last 2 paragraphs but I just would not just tear down the engine at this point. Why? well first Engine wear is not always chips and particles. If you follow the path of the particles more than likely no major chips will end up in the oil pan unless the particles made it past the cylinder walls. I have dealt with engine analysis for some 21 years and can tell you it works. Thats why airlines, fleet mgt., Military etc. use it. Spectro analysis if you understand it can show you where the wear is occuring, bearings, rings, pistons etc. It even shows if your ingesting dirt or have contaminated fluids! Again some things that are checked are IRON, COPPER, ALUMINUM, CHROME, TIN, LEAD, SILICONE (INGESTED DIRT), SODIUM ETC. If there is any wear whatsoever it will show up on the sample. you will not be able to check lower end wear unless you completely tear down the engine without sampling.

This case is obviously a mess and I would never have gotten into it. This is one of those things that just isn't right from the start.

CHECK THIS OUT:http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests.aspx

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

Ranger I do not disagree with You on Oil test and leak down etc.in a normal situation but this is past finding out what is in he oil. It has been flushed out by crooks or the stuff that happened I can promise under forced indction it got the aluminum to the oil pan. It is just not a routine maintence deal here. It is basicly a catastropic failure and He can look at compressure whell and see how much went in the engine and if they did not flush it all out it is inth pan bt, pan loose would be to see how bad the damage is aS THE CYLINDRS, THE VALVES, RINGS, AND MAYBEY THE BEARINGS in lower end are all damaged to a degree. Just have to determine how much and just either replace a few of the worse or just not look at anything get SC off and go back stock and run it that way and it could last as long as He wants to keep the rig.
Taz But, just the experience with forced induction when it happened depending on he boost being run etc. It got to the oilpan faster than He could blink his eyes.
But the main thing I was wanting Him to think about Is just get rid of forced induction and jjustb run it till it lays down. I promise it wwill sooner than later. Taking pan off was to be able to get a look at bearings if that curious and pull the heads is a short job and He can get an idea of what levell of damage it hhas. Heads back on in no time. It is likevkid asking Me recently to listen to his engine. When He started it up I could hearb rod knock in the font right hole of a V6.
He asked if He should vflush and clean matbe it was lifters stickers. It was not anf told Him so. Pulled the oil stick san oil fely like it never had been changed. He all excited that's what it is I'll clean it up and it willmwork. He changed the oil and lived and hour from and by the btime he got there threw thr rod out the pan. I told him to leave it alone if He wanted to do manything just change filter and add sTPno oil to fill it up. Do not drop oil out. Well what was going on is that the slack in the bearing was being taken up with crud and when He changed oil He did clean it out if it had been for stickingb lifters but He had a rod proyected anf held tight with crud and allot of bSTP. It id just all depending on how fa down he road You want to go. In the H2 case He can look at some rods because most likely whoever had this happen pulled plug on pan and removed valve covers and flushed all the trace metas out with desielm poured down each head and an oil analysis which I believe in when it has been aride You have cared for. But, in this situationb He needs to see if He can spot something bad and if not get rid of the SC and put it together if judsy heads and run it till it quits. The damage isdone just use Royal Purplevand chnge on normal ime cshedule not an extended as these syntheticsallow. Run it till it drops. I would pull heads only to see if there was something ba enough there and a hone on the cylinder wall and new rings itcould witout forced inductionrun a good while. So it is just a street thing on My end as that is what We do is keep guys running till it goes as they save mney to go big time when they do. BHut, We are in the same camp I just suggest looking or major that could be helped cheaply and run it and if not then for sure run it till it drops.
Taz

Originally posted by H2 Ranger:
I agree with you Taz on the last 2 paragraphs but I just would not just tear down the engine at this point. Why? well first Engine wear is not always chips and particles. If you follow the path of the particles more than likely no major chips will end up in the oil pan unless the particles made it past the cylinder walls. I have dealt with engine analysis for some 21 years and can tell you it works. Thats why airlines, fleet mgt., Military etc. use it. Spectro analysis if you understand it can show you where the wear is occuring, bearings, rings, pistons etc. It even shows if your ingesting dirt or have contaminated fluids! Again some things that are checked are IRON, COPPER, ALUMINUM, CHROME, TIN, LEAD, SILICONE (INGESTED DIRT), SODIUM ETC. If there is any wear whatsoever it will show up on the sample. you will not be able to check lower end wear unless you completely tear down the engine without sampling.

This case is obviously a mess and I would never have gotten into it. This is one of those things that just isn't right from the start.

CHECK THIS OUT:http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests.aspx

[H2 Ranger]

HI Taz,

I think we are in the same ball park with different approaches. I checked around oil sampling would cost about $25.00 (depends on company who does it). The actual test gives readings and will tolerate some trace pariticals or properties of contamination. The contaminates do have tolerances and the Spectrometer will disclose them. Wile it's not made to correct problems, it will give an idea of the overall condition of the engine mentioned above. If the trace elements exceed the tolerance then of course engine teardown is needed. I really feel for this guy unless he knew everything up front. Now it would be a different story if he was told about the situation in advance... Some dammage may have occured but if trace levels of the contaminates are within tolerance, "keep going". Changing oil will not remove trace elements because if wear is occuring it will return on a resample. So for the price of 2 samples ($50.00), I think I would know to run it or rebuild it. This would not be a candidate for a S/C or Turbo though as you stated, unless it was completely torn down and rebuilt. I dont have much hope either on long tern useage of this engine.

BTW How do you like the MSD Coil packs? I used the Nology wires and thought about changing to MSD Coils too. Hows the burn pattern with the Plugs? I ran the 8 Series in my Supergasser and it was a lot of fun working with it, crank trigger,2 step etc. We know how good MSD is...

Nice to hear from you Taz!

[H2NY]

Guys,
Thanks for all the suggestions and information. At this point im really not worried about the engine as it runs stong, as was checked out by my mechanic. If the thing failes down the road, its under warranty so im not really concerned. The charger is currently out of the truck but i do plan to put it back in when i get it repaired. This is my second H2 and this engine runs stronger without the charger than my first on did stock. Thanks All

[KenP]

Nice to hear from you Taz. Hope all is well.

[H2 Ranger]

Originally posted by H2NY:
Guys,
Thanks for all the suggestions and information. At this point im really not worried about the engine as it runs stong, as was checked out by my mechanic. If the thing failes down the road, its under warranty so im not really concerned. The charger is currently out of the truck but i do plan to put it back in when i get it repaired. This is my second H2 and this engine runs stronger without the charger than my first on did stock. Thanks All

Now that I would like to see!