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Go Back   Hummer Forums by Elcova > Hummer H3 Discussion Forums > Technical Discussion and Customizing your H3

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  #1  
Old 11-21-2005, 04:21 AM
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THANKS for the info!!
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  #2  
Old 11-20-2005, 03:45 AM
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any updates if it will be safe to lift the front with two turns?? Will the alignment be needed?
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  #3  
Old 10-25-2005, 02:30 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by evomind:
i want to know why they didnt make it level from the factory?
is there a reason? i cant believe it "just happened" that one side sits 2" lower than the other. (front to back). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The real reason that most trucks sit higher in the rear is so that when you put a load in it, it isn't draggin a$$.
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  #4  
Old 11-20-2005, 01:18 PM
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I turned mine 2 times about 3 months ago. I've gone 6000 miles on and offroad since, and no problems. I didn't realign and the tires look good. I have rotated them though.
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  #5  
Old 09-02-2005, 01:35 PM
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They wanted to make sure women would buy this SUV as well, so with the front end sitting lower, it is easier for them to get in the cabin.
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  #6  
Old 08-11-2005, 08:21 PM
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ANYONE KNOW IF YOU SHOULD PURCHASE THE OFF SET KEY IF YOUR GOING TO RAISE THE FRONT AN INCH AND HALF??
THANKS
BRET
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  #7  
Old 08-07-2005, 01:58 AM
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One of the biggest things you need to keep in mind with adjusting the torsion bars on a GM product, the bump stops are part of the suspension design. If you look underneath, the lower control arm rests on the bump stops. However, the bump stops are not a solid rubber design. They actually operate to reduce the oscillation of the suspension just like a shock.
Also, a torsion bar is a suspension spring. It's design to twist to provide spring-like action. Vehicle springs are designed to hold the vehicle up. Without getting too involved in design and application, the more you twist, the more it fatigues. Get to a point and it'll break or sag.
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Old 08-13-2005, 07:36 PM
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Well I read about the Ball Joints damage in Four Wheeler magazine a couple of years back, the recommendation was never to go above 2 inch (1 inch safe). and the guy was talking about Ball Joint damage in general rather than vehicle specific.

As mentioned before my constant Ball Joint damage on my Blazer (S-15) comes from soft sand getting into the ball-joints rather than my 1 inch T-bar tweaking.

DuneH3
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  #9  
Old 09-02-2005, 12:28 PM
evomind evomind is offline
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i want to know why they didnt make it level from the factory?
is there a reason? i cant believe it "just happened" that one side sits 2" lower than the other. (front to back).
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  #10  
Old 08-07-2005, 09:08 PM
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thanks man
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Old 08-11-2005, 08:24 AM
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which way did you turn it.
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  #12  
Old 09-01-2005, 03:20 PM
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Still waiting to hear about ride quality, I once owned a dodge dakota and did the same with the torsion bars and it rode horrible. Plus I lost some suspension travel. Thanks
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Old 08-11-2005, 02:02 AM
felsmann felsmann is offline
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Good job MX.

Adjusting Tbars does not affect ride comfort, unless you give it too much 2+ inches then your upper arms max out and it rides like a wagon. 1-1.5" is the most you should adjust for.
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  #14  
Old 08-13-2005, 01:48 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
As DuneH3 said, they make the adapter, (It is shown back on page 1) but many of the Colorado/Canyon guys have done 2" of lift with 6 full turns and have not had any problems. I will be leaving mine at 2 turns and report back if I have any problems. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Well it depends if the Colorado/Canyon guys go Offroading pretty often or is it a show vehicle.

Ball joints get affected not just by steering, but by wheel travel and constant suspension flex, when the torsion bar is tweaked the ball joints tighten, but if no suspension flex is occuring then they might have a chance.

On my Blazer, I tweaked the T-bar by 1 inch and go offroading every week-end, I completely change my set of ball joints every 3 months but I cannot use this as an example because most of the damage is occuring from the soft sand getting into the ball joint and damaging it, but that's another story

DuneH3
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  #15  
Old 09-01-2005, 07:19 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by flkeysff:
Still waiting to hear about ride quality, I once owned a dodge dakota and did the same with the torsion bars and it rode horrible. Plus I lost some suspension travel. Thanks </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The ride quality with 2 turns is the same as stock and raises the front to be within 1" of the rear.
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  #16  
Old 02-12-2006, 03:20 AM
jp's-h3 jp's-h3 is offline
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CLOCKWISE!
I adjusted mine on Monday(2/6/06) 2.5 turns, looks AWESOME! rides great!
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  #17  
Old 09-30-2005, 01:58 PM
MyxH3 MyxH3 is offline
 
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I was wondering the same thing
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  #18  
Old 08-07-2005, 07:57 PM
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hey honda, how difficult is this to do. i am not very good with mechanical stuff. what do you actually do. do those "offset keys" get installed or do they help you raise the truck. do you think its safe as far as damaging the integrity of the suspension or driving capability.
thanks man
bret

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  #19  
Old 09-05-2005, 02:52 AM
MyxH3 MyxH3 is offline
 
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I was have decided to use the re-index keys as well as torquing the torsion bars, I will probably also replace the stock bump stops with possibly some energy suspension ones to compensate for the nose dive breaking issues. I think this will hold me over until the actual lifts become available.
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  #20  
Old 08-13-2005, 11:27 AM
MxHonda MxHonda is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">
How do you measure the difference between front to rear?

I would think you would need a point reference like one right behind the front tire and one in front of the rear tire on the kick panel. Why not just take a level on the kick panel? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I always measure fender height. A tape measure centered on the wheel from the ground to the fender lip. The rear on mine is 40 1/2" and the front is now 39 1/2" with 2 full turns on the torsion bar bolt.

The ride quality with 2 turns is the same as stock and raises the front to be within 1" of the rear.

As DuneH3 said, they make the adapter, (It is shown back on page 1) but many of the Colorado/Canyon guys have done 2" of lift with 6 full turns and have not had any problems. I will be leaving mine at 2 turns and report back if I have any problems.
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