Installing lights on Gobi roof rack -- -- need advice

[GeorgeSSSS]

Based on the good advice I've always gotten from this forum, I've ordered a Gobi stealth rack for my H2. I've also ordered 4 PIAA 1500XT driving lights for the front and PIAA 2 Ion Crystal lights for the rear.

I am a little freaked out about drilling holes in the roof to run wires down into the car. I would appreciate advice about the best way to do this from anyone who can help.

Alternatively, if anyone knows an installer I can trust who is near the Redondo-Hermosa-Manhattan Beach area, I'd consider letting him do it.

Best regards,

George SSSS

[rodster]

George,

I did the same project in March. No doubt, it's a handful of a job. It's not especially difficult but it does take some planning and time. I'm glad I did it because it forced me to learn a good deal about the truck and that knowledge has come in handy many times since.

I'd recommend you first read everything you can here on the forum. Search for "Gobi PIAA". Here's my S.O.S. thread on the install.

Ken is correct about going through the marker light and not needing to drill holes. Suggest you get on a ladder and remove the driver side, front marker light and you'll see a rubber gizmo/boot. You'll need to pierce that to string your roof wires through.

I'd also recommend you tackle the project in two phases. One is assembling the rack and building its wiring harness. The other is wiring the truck. Install a waterproof quick-disconnect near the marker light and on the rack then mount the rack, plug it in and you're done.

Rod

[rodster]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by CslRkH2:
How do you remove the overhead console? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Two phillips head screws are in the two holes circled in the pic below. Once those are out, let the forward edge drop and push the unit forward. Two tabs (approx. where the red boxes are) hold the rear end of the console up. As you push the unit foward those tabs will slide out and the entire console drops. All light and switch wires inside use plug-in connectors so you can remove the console to drill holes and mount switches.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Do you have to remove it to get access to above the headliner on top of the console? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No. You only need to remove the overhead console if you plan to mount switches on it.

[rodster]

George -- I think most of these copied posts were originally written by PhilD and LasVegas.

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On the right hand side and 1st WTF on the left; that is just conduit, once I connected the wires to the ones pre-wired on the rack, I just slipped them all inside the conduit and trimmed them to length.

I utilized the existing roof bar wiring I had, which has three wires, one for each set of lights and one for ground. I switched these around and used the ground for the rear lights, so needed an additional ground, which is another WTF. The final one is the three way connector that connects to the roof bar wiring harness.

http://elcova.com/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/.../981100035/p/3

I cut up the wiring harnesses that came with the lights and also used a lot of my own wire. I retained the light connectors, as I like to able to disconnect and remove a light if the need arises.

I haven't gor around to taking any pics yet, but here's something I quickly wrote for someone else;

--

There is nothing difficult about doing the lights, but it is time consuming.

I cut up the harnesses supplied with my lights and put together a wiring harness, still retaining the connectors, so I can easily remove a light if need be. I used the shrink down connectors that work like a normal crimp connector, then used a little propane torch to shrink the tubing down and seal them. I know you should really solder joints, but I've used these before and never had any problems.

Once the harness for the four front lights was complete (including the wiring for the rear lights which are prewired front to rear by Gobi). I covered the whole thing in conduit. I have two lights running off each relay.

Everything goes through the drivers side marker light. If you remove the light, one screw, you will see where the light wires go through a rubber grommet, I simply punnched a hole through it and ran all my wires through that, and then used some black marine silicone to seal it all up again. The wires exit on top at the rear of the light, there is a space there for them to come through. Trying to get them through to the cab is a little tricky as they have to go through a hollow section and then out a small hole. I removed the door seal at the Top (which is all sticky so be careful where you put your hands afterwards), and very gently pulled the roof liner down enough to see where the wires come through.

Use a screwdriver to gently pry the inserts on the a-pillar handle out, they are bit tough the first time, but get easier. The handle will then come off and so will the a-pillar cover.

You can then run all your wires down inside the a-pillar. remove the fuse panel cover and you can route the wires behind the dash and out the bottom of it.

I mounted my relays along the bottom dash rail on the top inside edge. I ran power direct from the battery to them. There is a big rubber seal up above where your left foot kind of sits, again I just punched holes through it and sealed it with marine silicone. It comes out down and behind the main fues box in the engine bay.

I have my switches on the overhead console. I removed the console and used a fish tape across the head lining and over to the top of the drivers door (still with the rubber trim removed and fed the wires back up the a-pillar and acroos the head lining to the center console.

I took the feed for the switches from the SEO ACCY fuse using a proper fuse tap, (one with two fuses, the original and an extra fuse for the tap). This is ignition switched so you can't leave your lights on when you turn the ignition off and is also not used for anything else.

That is pretty much it, it sounds more complicated than it is. But Like I said it is time consuming. Take your time, don't rush, and if you get stuck, take a break and just think about it for a moment. Use conduit on all exterior/engine compartment wires, fuse anything that is direct from the battery, and make good joints. Time spent prepping the wiring and knowing where it is all going to run is time well spent.

It took me four hours or so, but by the time I'd ran to store a couple of times, it was pretty much an all day job.

--

My relays for all the rack lights are bolted to the rail that runs along the bottom of the dash area. Where possible I like to have relays inside the cab. This is where the stock relays also go for the roof bar lights.

Like I said, it isn't difficult, just time consuming. But, it is better to spend more time making sure everything is done right, than to spend time trying to figure out why something doesn't work.

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Phil has his 2 front outside lights on one relay, the 2 front inside on another and then the rear on a third, I think according to his post. You should have gotten a relay with each pair of lights, but again I don't know anything about your setup either. On wiring though, better safe than sorry.

[rodster]

Anybody know how to get this job done without going through the firewall?

[rodster]

George -- Check this out. The XTC light bar install is nearly identical to the job you'll do. XTC install instructions.

[GeorgeSSSS]

Tim:

When you are driving with the factory faring removed, and the sunroof open, does it feel about the same as when you had the factory faring and no Gobi rack with its faring?

Thanks,

George

[4churchill]

I Found Pilot lights which are a fraction of the cost, and from what I know work very well. I too ordered 4 for the front and 2 for the back. My rack is pre-wired but I have yet to decide which way to install them. Alot of installers are worried about dealing with the headliner. I don't know enough to know if this should be an issue or not.

[4churchill]

my 1500's for the rear just came in yesterday, I got them used for $45.00 I have ordered one brand which is supposed to be a direct copy for the front, but I may just ebay them and try and find 4 more 1500's. (being a broke college student/gm sales manager right now sucks!!!!)

[rodster]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
Mid Bussed Electrical Center. It is the distribution panel kind of above the brake pedal. You'll see it if you look under the dash. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks, Phil. I'll have a look but as you noted above, it would be good to first know the specifics on the circuits there.

[4churchill]

Ship PM me with your email address and I will forward the info...thanks

[GeorgeSSSS]

Rodster: I gave my installer the instructions from your XTC lightbar. From what I can tell, he connected my lights in the place indicated by your instructions. Thanks very much for that info. It works great.

George SSSS

[GeorgeSSSS]

Thanks a million to everyone. I now understand this much better. I'm going to take my time and re-read all of the posts in sequence to make sure I understand it. The explanations and photos are absolutely outstanding.

One quick question: Rodster, when you have the sunroof open, does it feel about the way it did before you added the rack with its own faring? If so, my instincts would be leave the original H2 faring in place.

Thanks again to everyone for an oustanding education.

Best regards,

George

[rodster]

George -- Where did you end up tapping the 12V?

[timgco]

Don't worry about the headliner. You only have to pull the corner down on the driver side. Just poke the hole through the boot and silicone it back up. Others have drilled a hole through the firewall, but I did not do that on mine. If anyone has questions, shoot me a PM with your contact info.

[4churchill]

I took the factory fairing off and left the Gobi one...No major difference in noise, but even if there were I would take it in stride b/c the Gobi would still be worth it

[rodster]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by timgco:
Don't worry about the headliner. You only have to pull the corner down on the driver side. Just poke the hole through the boot and silicone it back up. Others have drilled a hole through the firewall, but I did not do that on mine. If anyone has questions, shoot me a PM with your contact info. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I think we're talking two different things here.

The wires from the roof: Under the marker light, through the headliner, down the A pillar and under the dash for connecting to relays and switches.

12V to the relays: Unless you tap a 12V circuit in the interior (a circuit with enough oomph to drive all those lights), something has to go through the firewall. Either your 12V comes in through the firewall from the battery to relays that are mounted under the dash or, your interior switch wires go through the firewall to the relays, which are connected directly to the battery and mounted in the engine compartment or under the fake air boxes.

I may be off here on the need to go directly to the battery and there may very well be a capable circuit inside. Tim, did you find that circuit?

[rodster]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
I'm guessing you could most probably pull a + feed off the MidBEC. I'm not sure what it is rated at (anyone?) but I'm guessing it should be good enough for the lights. I personally prefer going direct to the battery or a + rail near the battery, but I'm guessing you could run off the MidBEC just fine, but I'd like to know it's capacity before doing so. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

MidBEC . . . never heard of it. Couldn't find anything on Google, either. Must be time to invest in service manuals. Thanks, Phil.

[timgco]

I would take the factory fairing off. It is much easier to clean up in there like rod said. Make sure to mount the Gobi fairing up tight to the rack, but just below the lights. You don't want the light to cast a shadow when turned on.

[H2Finally]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GeorgeSSSS:
H2Finally: Mrs. George SSSS and I went to your great restaurant 2 weeks ago, but Mrs. H2Finally and you weren't there. They told me you had family visiting, but I think you were out in the rocks. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>George, much obliged on your continuing support! We're only there Fri & Sat now. But do let me know if you would like to see my wiring setup, or need help lifting that rack over! Be glad to help!