Rock rails

[h2co-pilot]

Has anyone ever tinkered with their rock rails?

I was checking them out today and though sturdy, the cross sections appear they might catch.

I was thinking that perhaps you could fabricate some extra protection on the bottom and extend them out a little, and the protrusion could negate the need for a step.

Any thoughts..

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Leave the part that mounts to the frame and the inner rail alone. Cut the outer rail off at the horizontal mounts. Use some plate steel to extend the tabs so that the outer rail is sticking out the proper amount. Also add some extra tabs for extra support. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That would work too, but I would have to take it off anyway and the spacers would be quick, even and easy.

I have to use one for each bolt though because the driver's side has a wire and the fuel filter box (I think). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I am not fond of the blocks idea. Can't pinpoint why off the top of my head. Just doesn't "feel" right.

Another idea is to cut the outer rails off from the tabs and get some custom outer rails made up by a metal shop. You could then bolt them back to the tabs using the holes the steps bolt to.

[PARAGON]

Phil, did you have that in Moab?

If you did, I am thinking about eating a .40 right about now.

[h2co-pilot]

..

[DRTYFN]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

**coughcough**attentionwhore**coughcough**

[h2co-pilot]

But I could only do it about an inch unless I want to start cutting- and that's not going to happen. The extension should protrude it enough for the ball of a foot or something.

I am also looking into creating something to extend off the rails to protect the torsion bars.

[h2co-pilot]

Has anyone ever tinkered with their rock rails?

I was checking them out today and though sturdy, the cross sections appear they might catch.

I was thinking that perhaps you could fabricate some extra protection on the bottom and extend them out a little, and the protrusion could negate the need for a step.

Any thoughts..

[h2co-pilot]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Leave the part that mounts to the frame and the inner rail alone. Cut the outer rail off at the horizontal mounts. Use some plate steel to extend the tabs so that the outer rail is sticking out the proper amount. Also add some extra tabs for extra support. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That would work too, but I would have to take it off anyway and the spacers would be quick, even and easy.

I have to use one for each bolt though because the driver's side has a wire and the fuel filter box (I think).

[h2co-pilot]

Well, I don't see an aftermarket kit for H2 under body protection. So I guess I will have to make something unless someone knows any different.

I am worried about the rear diff too H. I think the wheel thing is a great idea, however, it is another movable component to worry about.

I'm thinking something like the undershield (just posterior to the skid plate) but with a steel panel veneer to slide on. Because if you just add another undershield you get that same 'catch' problem. The pumpkin can just have a two bar frame and a steel panel with hinges for access if needed.

[h2co-pilot]

Hey, I went tanning yesterday.

[NoMoGMPG]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GMPartsGuy:
It looks to me like the RubberDuck4x4 UCP will work CP. I think it actually bolts to that torsion crossmember. Look at this photo and follow the sides of the UCP... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>It woill not fit a Fabtech lifted H2. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I defer to your first hand experience Phil.

[DRTYFN]

That damn rock is why I built these bad boys.

[PARAGON]

Leave the part that mounts to the frame and the inner rail alone. Cut the outer rail off at the horizontal mounts. Use some plate steel to extend the tabs so that the outer rail is sticking out the proper amount. Also add some extra tabs for extra support.

[h2co-pilot]

Okay but don't joke my knees again.

The problem is, as Ken explained to me that anything directly under the bars would not be good because when they move down, it will bend and break them.

Anything under them too low would cancel out the lift.

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by H2Finally:
Para, why must it rotate? I was thinking more like what CP described -- a stationary "ramp" with the pallet wheels in them, to glide-over and pick-up the rear diff over the rock (with a little momemtum). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Well, my first reaction would be durability. Having some types of small wheels mean that there would be some small axles. Conceiveably, half the weight of the truck could come to rest on one of the wheels. Also, ground rock and debri would gather up and around the wheel.

My reasoning behind something moving was the same idea as the wheel. To reduce friction. The idea that was in my head had a "foot" that was flat on bottom but rounded up to vertical. When contacting the rock the movement would allow frictionless travel over the rock until the "plate" hit a stop. Then it acts as an ordinary skid plate and will drag the rest of the way. But this will help keep the rear end from hanging up and probably further help you to high-center on the rear end.

In my rambling thoughts about our UCP I often wonder if the best solution would not be a network of front-to-back I-Beam shaped pieces tied together horizontally for twisting stability. I don't know of any stock metal that could be used, though. It would have to be some custom extrusion, I would guess.

The pieces could be bolted together so that when you destroy one or two sections, you could easily buy the individual lengths and replace only what was need. Obviously, once it was damaged, there wouldn't be any straightening it or anything.

Actually, with further thought it could be a modular thing and applicable to any vehicle

[h2co-pilot]

...........

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PhilD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Phil, did you have that in Moab? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Yup.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">If you did, I am thinking about eating a .40 right about now. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>If you are hungry try a .45 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Damn. I did go to Moab, didn't I?

[DRTYFN]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Just weld some of these underneath and you can "roll" right over the rocks.

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[h2co-pilot]

Seth, thanks for the link. I will be researching it and hopefully attempting.

While I am under there, is there any harm in adding piping and/or steel plating to the rest of the undercarriage. If not, what things should I leave exposed for repair and maint. (manifold etc..) or should I make a removable "cage" supported by structural piping.

[h2co-pilot]

The scary duck stuff is cool but won't work with my lift.