Transfer case select switch??

[Bulldog400]

Every time I start my H2 all the lights come on the select switch but the top round button blinks for 15 to 20 sec after all other lights go out the others light up and go out and the top square button stays on. I do have the service 4WD message on but it will shift into 4hi and 4low with no problems but in 4low and in N the top round locker button(after pushing it) will only blink for 20 sec and go out. I'm hoping that I only have a bad switch. The rig has always had a binding feel when you turn the wheels sharp eather way and in forward or reverse. Last week during the snow it started alittle poping sound on the pass. side front. Not sure what it is but at high way speed you dont hear anything but around 5 to 10 mph it makes a clank,clank,clank sound. I also noticed the binding feeling seems to be gone but I dont think the front wheels are pulling only the rear. It seems like i have more than one problem here. Can someone give me some ideas on whats going on with my rig. Thanks, Rob

[HUMTECH]

Sounds like you might have a broken front cv joint and also sounds like the t-case will not shift to all wheel drive range. Could be internal t-case problem, encoder motor or switch.

[HumminNBoatin']

I second Humtech...

Odds are the case binding caused the CV to fail.

[Bulldog400]

I guess I'll take to the steelership today and see what they come up with.

[Bulldog400]

Update!! my front CV joint feel apart about 100 yards from the steelership. They called and said it would be 1,200 to repace the front axle.WTF !! they were going to charge me $850 for just 1 front axle. I called the parts store and got one for $75. They want to charge me 1,900 to replace the rear diff. locking coil(they said thats why i have the service 4wd mess.) . This is why no one should ever go to a dealership to have there rig worked on. I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE TO SAY !!!

[HUMTECH]

Im a tech at a dealership and i know parts are quite pricey. In a situation like that i would quote the gm shaft and an aftermarket shaft and let the customer decide. Thing is with an aftermarket shaft you have no warranty on the labor side of things. But the price difference in this case makes it worth it to go aftermarket. I always suggest cardone shafts, they are bigger joints than oem and have had no problems with them. As for the coil in the rear diff, kinda stuck there as its a dealer only part. You can try gmpartsdirect for a price but its still about 4-5 hrs labour as the diff has to come apart to replace it.