New Warn winch bumper system installation

PARAGON · #1 09-24-2004, 10:39 PM

I'm going to go ahead and start this thread on the installation since I have completed a good portion of it. So far it has been very easy and straightforward. I'll make some notations in the instructions below as well as point out a couple of things using pictures from the installation instructions.

PARTS LIST

PART NO.----QUANTITY---- DESCRIPTION

69464..........1.........Bumper, H2
69347..........1.........Closure Shield, RH
69348..........1.........Closure Shield, LH
69609..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Outer
69196..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Inner
69119..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, RH
69120..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, LH
69121..........1.........License Bracket

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

BOLT SIZE TORQUE

3/8 inch 30 lb. ft. (40.7 N-m)
7/16 inch 50 lb. ft. (67.8 N-m)
½ inch 75 lb. ft. (101.7 N-m)
12mm 58 lb. ft. (78.7 N-m)

1. Open hood and remove light sockets from fog lights (they are referring to the Daytime Running Lights, you should be able to do all of this without opening your hood). Squeeze and push out the metal clips that retain the lower center grille piece(A) (you really don't have to do this, just pull on it and it will pop off). Close hood to actually remove this grille. (Do not remove the main chrome grille(B)).

2. Pry up and remove the two plastic hole plugs(C) from the top of the bumper plastic (be careful with these as you will put them back and you can easily tear the edge getting them off). These give access to the top two bumper bolts. Remove these two upper bolts and the two lower bolts(these bolts all take 18mm socket) at the bottom edge of the bumper(D). Remove the bumper assembly.

3. Remove the two tow loops and also the receiver bracket(E) from the center of the front cross member(all of these take 18mm socket).

4. Install the RH(F) and LH(G) Frame Extensions. The RH piece has the welded-on control box bracket as shown in Photo 1. Use 1/2 x 1-1/2 bolts(these require 3/4 inch socket), lock washers and nuts. Install the factory tow loops onto the Frame Extensions with the factory bolts at the rear holes only. Leave out the front bolts and leave the rear bolts loose at this time, allowing the tow loop to pivot downward. (See step 16).

5. Match drill (7/16”) the vehicle frame horns to the holes(H) provided in the upper tabs of the Frame extensions. Install 7/16 x 1-1/4 bolts(these take 5/8 inch socket for the bolt heads and a 11/16 inch socket for the nuts

), lock washers and nuts. Tighten all bolts (except tow loops) securely at this point.

1. Install the inner section(I) of the Winch Mounting Bracket to the cross member. Tighten the 4 factory bolts evenly while making sure both angled surfaces are lying down flush at the same time. Tighten securely.

2. Install the outer front section(J) of the Winch Mounting Bracket as shown in Photo 2. Tighten only finger tight until directed later.

3. Install the fairlead bolts (7/16 x 1-1/4) from the inside out, prior to installing winch.

4. Install the control box onto the RH Frame Extension bracket with the wiring to the rear near the vehicle body. See Photo 3. Install the black ground (-) cable and the ground lead from the control box to the bottom of the winch motor before dropping the winch into place. Now install the winch and tighten securely.

5. Make the electrical connections to the winch motor terminals as described in the winch installation instructions. Route the long power cables and the remote control harness along the back edge of the inner Winch Mounting Bracket near the brake line. Near the steering gear, route the long power cables up to the battery vicinity. Tie wrap the cables and harness to the brake line and be sure that they are secured away from sharp edges and moving parts.

6. The Warn Bumper requires some sub assembly work before it is ready for installation. First, go to the original factory bumper and remove the upper plastic section with lights from the main metal section. Install the plastic section onto the Warn Bumper with the original factory fasteners(these take 13mm socket). Refer to Photo 4 showing the inside view of the bumper. Install the metal Closure Shields as shown, sharing two factory bolts on each side.

7. Install the Remote Control Socket onto the top of the bumper using the holes provided. The lanyard on the cap should be oriented toward the outboard side so that the slot is visible to the front when the cap is removed.

8. Install the Warn Bumper assembly onto the vehicle. Secure it to the frame using the original bolts and tighten securely.

9. Install the Fairlead over the protruding bolts. If a front license plate is needed, install the bracket provided between the fairlead and the bumper, and then tighten the fairlead bolts securely.

10. Now, from underneath the vehicle, tighten the five nuts on the round head bolts that connect the two mounting plate sections together.

11. Working through the tow loop area with the tow loops pivoted down for access, tighten the frame extension tab to mounting plate nuts securely. Now install the front tow loop fasteners and tighten all six securely.

12. Connect the remote control harness leads together, matching the color-coded wires.

13. Reconnect the fog light sockets. Reinstall the hole plugs and the small plastic grille.

14. Make the electrical power lead connections to the side terminal battery using the special brass fasteners provided. Push out the original factory fastener from the each battery cable and replace with the brass fastener. The winch lead is then connected using the brass hex bolt. The other bolts and nuts furnished are not used in this application.

15. Install hook onto the winch wire rope. Refer to the winch installation instructions and test the clutch operation and the “power in” and “power out” functions.

PARAGON · #2 09-24-2004, 10:39 PM

I'm going to go ahead and start this thread on the installation since I have completed a good portion of it. So far it has been very easy and straightforward. I'll make some notations in the instructions below as well as point out a couple of things using pictures from the installation instructions.

PARTS LIST

PART NO.----QUANTITY---- DESCRIPTION

69464..........1.........Bumper, H2
69347..........1.........Closure Shield, RH
69348..........1.........Closure Shield, LH
69609..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Outer
69196..........1.........Mounting Bracket, Inner
69119..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, RH
69120..........1.........Tow Loop Bracket, LH
69121..........1.........License Bracket

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

BOLT SIZE TORQUE

3/8 inch 30 lb. ft. (40.7 N-m)
7/16 inch 50 lb. ft. (67.8 N-m)
½ inch 75 lb. ft. (101.7 N-m)
12mm 58 lb. ft. (78.7 N-m)

1. Open hood and remove light sockets from fog lights (they are referring to the Daytime Running Lights, you should be able to do all of this without opening your hood). Squeeze and push out the metal clips that retain the lower center grille piece(A) (you really don't have to do this, just pull on it and it will pop off). Close hood to actually remove this grille. (Do not remove the main chrome grille(B)).

2. Pry up and remove the two plastic hole plugs(C) from the top of the bumper plastic (be careful with these as you will put them back and you can easily tear the edge getting them off). These give access to the top two bumper bolts. Remove these two upper bolts and the two lower bolts(these bolts all take 18mm socket) at the bottom edge of the bumper(D). Remove the bumper assembly.

3. Remove the two tow loops and also the receiver bracket(E) from the center of the front cross member(all of these take 18mm socket).

4. Install the RH(F) and LH(G) Frame Extensions. The RH piece has the welded-on control box bracket as shown in Photo 1. Use 1/2 x 1-1/2 bolts(these require 3/4 inch socket), lock washers and nuts. Install the factory tow loops onto the Frame Extensions with the factory bolts at the rear holes only. Leave out the front bolts and leave the rear bolts loose at this time, allowing the tow loop to pivot downward. (See step 16).

5. Match drill (7/16”) the vehicle frame horns to the holes(H) provided in the upper tabs of the Frame extensions. Install 7/16 x 1-1/4 bolts(these take 5/8 inch socket for the bolt heads and a 11/16 inch socket for the nuts

), lock washers and nuts. Tighten all bolts (except tow loops) securely at this point.

1. Install the inner section(I) of the Winch Mounting Bracket to the cross member. Tighten the 4 factory bolts evenly while making sure both angled surfaces are lying down flush at the same time. Tighten securely.

2. Install the outer front section(J) of the Winch Mounting Bracket as shown in Photo 2. Tighten only finger tight until directed later.

3. Install the fairlead bolts (7/16 x 1-1/4) from the inside out, prior to installing winch.

4. Install the control box onto the RH Frame Extension bracket with the wiring to the rear near the vehicle body. See Photo 3. Install the black ground (-) cable and the ground lead from the control box to the bottom of the winch motor before dropping the winch into place. Now install the winch and tighten securely.

5. Make the electrical connections to the winch motor terminals as described in the winch installation instructions. Route the long power cables and the remote control harness along the back edge of the inner Winch Mounting Bracket near the brake line. Near the steering gear, route the long power cables up to the battery vicinity. Tie wrap the cables and harness to the brake line and be sure that they are secured away from sharp edges and moving parts.

6. The Warn Bumper requires some sub assembly work before it is ready for installation. First, go to the original factory bumper and remove the upper plastic section with lights from the main metal section. Install the plastic section onto the Warn Bumper with the original factory fasteners(these take 13mm socket). Refer to Photo 4 showing the inside view of the bumper. Install the metal Closure Shields as shown, sharing two factory bolts on each side.

7. Install the Remote Control Socket onto the top of the bumper using the holes provided. The lanyard on the cap should be oriented toward the outboard side so that the slot is visible to the front when the cap is removed.

8. Install the Warn Bumper assembly onto the vehicle. Secure it to the frame using the original bolts and tighten securely.

9. Install the Fairlead over the protruding bolts. If a front license plate is needed, install the bracket provided between the fairlead and the bumper, and then tighten the fairlead bolts securely.

10. Now, from underneath the vehicle, tighten the five nuts on the round head bolts that connect the two mounting plate sections together.

11. Working through the tow loop area with the tow loops pivoted down for access, tighten the frame extension tab to mounting plate nuts securely. Now install the front tow loop fasteners and tighten all six securely.

12. Connect the remote control harness leads together, matching the color-coded wires.

13. Reconnect the fog light sockets. Reinstall the hole plugs and the small plastic grille.

14. Make the electrical power lead connections to the side terminal battery using the special brass fasteners provided. Push out the original factory fastener from the each battery cable and replace with the brass fastener. The winch lead is then connected using the brass hex bolt. The other bolts and nuts furnished are not used in this application.

15. Install hook onto the winch wire rope. Refer to the winch installation instructions and test the clutch operation and the “power in” and “power out” functions.

Hummie2 · #3 09-25-2004, 02:39 PM

How much does the new winch and bumper weigh? How about a before and after measurement to see how much the front end sets down after the additional weight is added. If the H2 loses another inch of ground clearance on the front thats not good.

timgco · #4 09-25-2004, 01:23 AM

check your PM.

timgco · #5 09-26-2004, 12:12 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by H2Finally:
timgco, I like those extra lights! Q: Why don't you just cut out circles, instead of chopping off the trim? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Tried that at first. when you open the hood, their toast. So that is what I ended up with. I have to pick up my powder coated bracket yet and put that on. All Black. I want to do something with the Bling grille too.. not sure what to do yet on that.

Patriot · #6 09-25-2004, 07:01 PM

Looks good...

I just painted my grill black today...

PARAGON · #7 09-25-2004, 02:31 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Patriot:
Did you take off your Warn light bar and go to stock lights? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Nope, keeping the light bar on as well. The reason the two are listed as not compatible is because when you open the hood all of the way, the light bar will hit the top of the winch bumper. I simply plan on shortening the opening of the hood to keep this from happening. I'll post what I end up doing for this fix.

I haven't done anything else on it so far, I've had a medical day so far. I had an appointment with my neurologist at 7:30am and when I got back from that we took my 3 year old daughter to the doc because she was stung by 3 red wasps and one got her on the eyelid. Bad deal, she needs a good cut-man. I am going to watch a little football now and will finish the install this afternoon.

And Drty, drilling = good, because of where you are making the additional mounting points. I had to drill into the bumper anyway to mount my Cibie Tangos.

PARAGON · #8 09-25-2004, 09:46 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by N2ITNSD:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Right now I have one of the big bumper bolts cross-threading because of the misalignment due to my Cibies and I guess I am going to have to put a cheater bar on it to get it to pull up the rest of the way. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Youch! Be careful not to break the bolt. I wish I had a dollar for everytime I should have taken the piece off and done it right. If you break the bolt off you are screwed. Hope you can "open" the hole up a bit, chase the threads and get it lined up.

Are you happy with it so far? Where do you plug the controller in? The spool free/lock lever looks a little vulnerable, is it? Can you use a roller fairlead?

BTW I love it. It doesn't have the R.A. "Im having a bad day" look, and after you mash it up a little it should match just fine

. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I had already screwed up the threads before I knew it. I was using a 1/2" rachet and just didn't feel it get started. The bolt did not get cross-threaded, it was the mounts. So, I figured I would cinch it up and if it broke I would drill it out and re-thread it. I was going to have to re-thread anyway. It cinched up fine, the bolt cut new threads and once it had made it all the way through, it got easier.

I am happy with it except for the "problems" with it being a first run. I really like the build of it and it is definitely well-engineered. The controller plugs into the top of the bumper just to the right of the lock lever. The winch would have to be a new design for the lever to be on top (where it should be), but it has one retaining screw that holds it in, and should be easy to replace if you break it off running into something. It probably sticks out about 2 inches or so. I think you could easily bolt on a roller fairlead in replace of the hawse but I am going with synthetic rope soon anyway.

Once it gets the same amount of bugs and dirt on it that the rest of the front end has, I think it'll look fine.

PARAGON · #9 09-25-2004, 06:50 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Fever:
Hey guys I heard there might be an issue with the pos battery cable length being too short and the control box mtg bolts are backwards from the picture. Let me know if I can help. I know Warn will take care of any short comings.
Paragon,Timgco I have pm,d my cell # if you run into any problems. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I think these two might be tied together. The bolts are placed on the bottom of the control box in such a way that the wires HAVE to come out towards the front. The instructions says to mount the box so that the wires are facing rearward. If the wires face forward then it would shorten the cable length some.

I have not hooked to the battery yet but am about there. I took the control box apart and re-oriented the mounting bolts so that it would mount with the wires facing rearward as the instructions say. I'll try to explain this in more detail as I explain the rest of the install.

I have to tighten a few bolts and complete the wire hook-ups and then I will be done. Here are a couple of pics with it basically done.

timgco · #10 09-25-2004, 12:59 AM

You're killing me here. UPS just dropped off my winch. Sat. morning is when I'm jumping into this project. It looks fairly easy, excpet I suck at electrical stuff.
How long do you think to complete?

Have you had any issues so far?

Patriot · #11 09-26-2004, 12:20 AM

Timgco,

Are the cross threaded bolts a real concern?? Or, if one takes their time, could they be prevented? We all don't have access to thread kits. Maybe getting all the bolts started and then tightening all of them slowly?

H2Finally · #12 09-26-2004, 12:06 AM

timgco, I like those extra lights! Q: Why don't you just cut out circles, instead of chopping off the trim?

PARAGON · #13 09-25-2004, 12:24 AM

Photo 1 from instructions

timgco · #14 09-25-2004, 11:58 PM

Pic 2

PARAGON · #15 09-26-2004, 01:38 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by timgco:
Paragon, I had the same problem with the bolts not going in straight.

However, thanks to Gobi for their help, We re-threaded two bolts and I'm done. I made two ABS Plastic guards to go over the bumper too. so when you take the winch cable hook to your tow hook, it won't be scratched over and over again. as for the POS cable being to short, their is a red box to the left of the battery and down further. I just an the POS cable to that... it reached just barely.

Overall, the project took me from 10:30 til 4:30 with an hour and a half brake becasue it rained and all of mt tools and trcuk were outdoors.

So here are some half-a$$es pics of the final job.

Overall it wasn't a bad project and am happy to answer an Q's anyone has on the installation.

Thanks Fever for the great deal and all of your follow through on this. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Which bolts? Mine was the bottom on the passenger side for the bumper itself. The bolt for my Cibie Lights (which replaced my DRLs and are bolted to the top of the metal bumper) hits the control box and made it difficult to line up in hindsight. If I would have caught it before I put the wrench to it I could have avoided the crossthreading.

Was the bolts in the bottom of your control box backwards? Mine were in the holes farthest from where the wires come out and wouldn't bolt up because it hit the body. I moved the bolts to the other 2 holes and it then worked fine. On mine there were tool marks around the holes that I had to use like the bolts were there at one time but got moved.

You didn't miss a step or anything, the dumb-rections said not to put the bolts in the front 2 bolt holes on the hooks so that the hooks can pivot down and you can tighten the nuts just to the inside of that opening.

I was lucky on the POS cable length after re-routing it because I could attach to the top of my Optima battery. But there is no way to make it around to the POS battery post that's on the side, it needs more length. I looked at the red box but it appeared it wouldn't make it to it where I had it coming up into the engine box.

Patriot, I think if you know about it ahead of time you can avoid the cross-threading. Just make sure it gets started and if it is misaligned, maybe loosen some other bolts up and try again. I know with mine, it was my fault for not making sure it was aligned and taking more time to work around my problem with my fog lights.

Fever · #16 09-25-2004, 09:31 PM

For those of you who purchased this setup check your pm.

timgco · #17 09-25-2004, 11:57 PM

Pic 1

Kevin B · #18 09-25-2004, 08:48 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Right now I have one of the big bumper bolts cross-threading because of the misalignment due to my Cibies and I guess I am going to have to put a cheater bar on it to get it to pull up the rest of the way. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Youch! Be careful not to break the bolt. I wish I had a dollar for everytime I should have taken the piece off and done it right. If you break the bolt off you are screwed. Hope you can "open" the hole up a bit, chase the threads and get it lined up.

Are you happy with it so far? Where do you plug the controller in? The spool free/lock lever looks a little vulnerable, is it? Can you use a roller fairlead?

BTW I love it. It doesn't have the R.A. "Im having a bad day" look, and after you mash it up a little it should match just fine

.

PARAGON · #19 09-25-2004, 12:24 AM

Photo 2 from instructions

Patriot · #20 09-26-2004, 01:23 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by timgco:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote">quote:<HR>Originally posted by Patriot:
Looks good...

I just painted my grill black today... <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

BTW, what did you use for paint and the process to do this? Is this someting I could do in the garage? Or do I have to have this done by an Auto Body? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I used Krylon SemiFlat Black (from Walmart). A year ago, I painted my wheel center caps with this stuff and they held up just fine to wheeling,weather, and washings.

I removed the grill and scuffed it with a sanding block and a coarse nylon 3-M pad. It has a very thick coating of clear coat over the chrome paint. I scuffed it just enough to give the paint some grab...but made sure not to "gouge" the plastic.

The black paint adheres pretty good but if you are determined to scratch it off, it will come off. I tested a spot on the lower tabs that are not visible installed and it took a FIRM scrathing to get the paint to come off...I felt OK with it.

It took about 30 minutes to paint...so if it gets banged up, I will simply remove it and repaint as necessary.

You could probably take it to a paint shop to do as well. You may get a better lasting paint job.

I'm not too hung up on my H2's looks. A few scrathes on the grill are no biggie..so a grill repaint every Spring or Fall is cheap.

Overall, my biggest concern is bug guts and the acid they contain. I'll let you know over time how the paint holds up.

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