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Go Back   Hummer Forums by Elcova > Hummer H3 Discussion Forums > Technical Discussion and Customizing your H3

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  #41  
Old 01-28-2006, 10:03 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by fourfourto:
I should have it in about a week.It should fit behind console with room to open rear cup holder.Rear right seat can still fold down,I have to make some kind of removable mount(velcro) for folding down left side.Holds 8 cans it has a double insulated glass door.I might paint the back part black.Hopefully it will mount were I want otherwise I will put in cargo area.Probobly tap in to 12 volt outlet so its on while driving and 20 minutes after.I will post pics when I receive it.
12 volt fridge on ebay </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Cheap POS. Those only cool a certain amount in relation to the ambient temperature. So if it's 100 degrees your drink will be 60 degrees, but if it's 50 it won't do much.

Should have stepped up and bought an ARB. I've had frosty beers on 100 degree days.
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  #42  
Old 01-28-2006, 11:09 PM
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Since I don't kow what the hell RAP Circuit is, couldn't you just wire it to an ACC fuse like I did for my CB install?

RAP= Retained Accessory Power circuit stays on when key removed but shuts off when you open door for sunroof ,radio,on star windows ect.

If acc is accessory fuse the accessory outlets in the H3 are powered all the time.I could probobly hook it to a different fuse but I was trying to tap in as close to the cargo area as posible.


Cheap POS. Those only cool a certain amount in relation to the ambient temperature. So if it's 100 degrees your drink will be 60 degrees, but if it's 50 it won't do much.


My parents have a simular one and it works good in fla.Most of the time it will be for trips so temperture in car wont be 100 deg. Those ARBs a huge and expensive I have a huge cooler for camping and beach, beers are better on ICE thats nice.
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  #43  
Old 01-29-2006, 04:12 PM
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The wire on the rear wiper switch seems thin I dont think its a good idea going there.

The trailering wires wont work either.

There is a heavy wire that will work on the blower switch , But its only powered up with key foward(truck running) it is not powered when on accessory or key out position.This one might be the best because it will only power fridge when running.If im at a drive in with the radio on for a few hours the fridge wont run so less chance off battery going dead.The manual on fridge says you can unplug and it will stay cold for a few hours so I think this is the easyist way and most practical.
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  #44  
Old 01-29-2006, 05:09 PM
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That is why, I believe I have been suggesting a relay to prevent any problems with blowing fuses, or even worse, cooking the vehicle.
The current draw to activate a relay is minimal, the current draw for the cooler is not.
Not sure what else I can say; other than if you want to wire in a large current draw device safely in to the vehicle, a relay is required.
And it is not a bad idea to install an inline fuse for the power circuit to the cooler, right where you tap into at the relay.

Many of the off-road lights people are installing have a current draw of 7-9 amps, and they are using relays with fuses to control the circuit. Your cooler has a nominal draw of 3.5 amps; therefore, it could draw more.
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  #45  
Old 01-29-2006, 05:31 PM
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Yeh your right as always going to tap in to rear wiper with relay tap in to 12 volt at accessory plug tap into ground in that cluster for the trailer brake under wheel and put 10 amp fuse on + off of relay.I have to go to store and get a relay and some tap ins .I might as well do it properly .Its raining now so I get to it during the week.


Thanks for all the info I usualy spend more thinking and futzing with things than it takes to acually do it. All this for a freekin little fridge.GM should have had at least one of the accessory outlets work with the RAP, in my 2004 murano both outlets were RAP
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  #46  
Old 01-29-2006, 06:30 PM
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Do you really need the RAP? It goes out when you open the door, so it won't buy you that much time.
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  #47  
Old 01-29-2006, 07:22 PM
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I coulds use the blower for key foward (truck running)or use the rear wiper for key fwd + back on accy. the open door shut off doesnt matter .I think I want it to run fridge on accy back so ill go with the rear wiper.My wife watches burned dvds of soap operas during lunch with key in accy position ,that way in the summer it will keep drinks cool for her. It wouldnt be left on accy for more than a hour or so, not enough to kill battery. Same reason for when at the drive in movies .
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  #48  
Old 01-30-2006, 01:13 PM
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I noticed I could use the + wire in cluster under wheel to power fridge after relay instesd of taping into the accy outlet.Also using that cluster for the ground.
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  #49  
Old 02-02-2006, 02:41 PM
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Useing the relay worked out good .I used B+ wire(in cluster under drivers side dash) same place for ground.
tapped into yellow wire of rear wiper so it would work with key and RAP.
The fridge chills,my wife went to work( 20 to 25 minute drive) and drinks were chillin.Good inexpensive fridge.
Thanks f5 for the help.
Using relays is a must and the way to properly install accessorys.
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