Towed H2 by RV causes accident

[prplprowlr]

I thought i would post this and i was wondering if it might be a member here. Either way we are praying for both families involved. An rv was towing a H2 and somehow came free and swerved into oncoming traffic killing a driver of the truck it hit. Here is the link http://www.wpde.com/news/viewarticle.asp?view=6846

[obzidian]

WOW!!

Though, i have never owned an RV, let alone tow with one; but, i still don't get why do most people trailer with reciever type instead of getting a full open trailer and get the car/truck off the four wheels.

Anyways, my prayers to those that were affected...

[mikejr]

our thoughts and prayers are out to those involved....

[Grizzy]

Originally Posted by obzidian

WOW!!

Though, i have never owned an RV, let alone tow with one; but, i still don't get why do most people trailer with reciever type instead of getting a full open trailer and get the car/truck off the four wheels.

Anyways, my prayers to those that were affected...

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Think I paid a little under 2k for my car/toy trailer. Axles underneath are 3.5k each, exceeding the capacity for what the trailer is rated for, atleast while hauling an H2. Of course, my H2 is what is doing the pulling, never being hauled. I'll bet the guy either broke the 2" ball which is unlikely but possible, considering they're not rated for loads over 6k, or had a tow bar that wasn't rated high enough for the H2. I've personally welded upgraded bull-dog trailer hitches and bigger safety chains on all 4 of my trailers. Use bigger and heavier duty ratchet straps for loads. When ya think you have your load all strapped and secured, add atleast 2 more straps. I take trailering/towing very seriously. Sad that all this happened to these families, but certainly could have been prevented.

[dkhummerh2]

yeah i hear you. I have towed alot in my life. It is important to take your time and do things the right way.
dk

[Big Z]

Well, Guess I'll pipe in again!

Flat towing is the BEST way! My 2 was the FIRST towed (prototype) for the roadMaster set up! I haven't read the link yet but I can Guarantee it was the RV/towed H2's fault!!

They most likely Didn't have a Brakeaway Installed OR A BRAKING SYSTEM!

Their's a LOT of ****Heads out there that that don't have the proper set-ups!

[Big Z]

Gotta Have It!

I've been rollin for five years now!---Just left RoadMaster with a with a clean Bill oh Health!

If for some Stupid reason the Drag Chains Broke, the lock pin wasn't install or Broke! A pin is pulled and the Brakes in The 2's lock up!

This Guy's FKED!---And shouldn't be, or have been on the Road!!

Another thing, if the drags were installed!, and properly The H2 would have went the other direction!!

[Grizzy]

Originally Posted by Big Z

Well, Guess I'll pipe in again!

Flat towing is the BEST way! My 2 was the FIRST towed (prototype) for the roadMaster set up! I haven't read the link yet but I can Guarantee it was the RV/towed H2's fault!!

They most likely Didn't have a Brakeaway Installed OR A BRAKING SYSTEM!

Their's a LOT of ****Heads out there that that don't have the proper set-ups!

Nice setup. Think I'd still prefer a car hauler personally. Less money to replace tires & bearings on a car hauler than it would be the H2. Not to mention the extra wear/tear on the drivetrain of the H2; transfer case, front/rear diffs, etc.. Of course you'd get less fuel mileage out of the RV pulling the H2 on a trailer, but does it matter? You're only getting maybe 5-6mpg out of the RV to begin with?.?. AND, if the roadmaster did happen to fail, you still wind up with a 60k vehicle in a ditch, probably rolled over, and perhaps still cause one hell of a wreck behind you with other innocent folks. Not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand how a tow bar system of any brand would be safer than a trailer. Again, nice setup though.

[mikejr]

Originally Posted by Big Z

Gotta Have It!

I've been rollin for five years now!---Just left RoadMaster with a with a clean Bill oh Health!

If for some Stupid reason the Drag Chains Broke, the lock pin wasn't install or Broke! A pin is pulled and the Brakes in The 2's lock up!

This Guy's FKED!---And shouldn't be, or have been on the Road!!

Another thing, if the drags were installed!, and properly The H2 would have went the other direction!!

Big Z....where you from? There is a guy local to me here north of pittsburgh that tows a maroon H2 behind his RV.....your set up looks similar to the one I saw

[Big Z]

Originally Posted by mikejr

Big Z....where you from? There is a guy local to me here north of pittsburgh that tows a maroon H2 behind his RV.....your set up looks similar to the one I saw

Or, Wa, Ca, Az, Nv, Ut.......For the most Part!

[DRTYFN]

Originally Posted by Big Z

Well, Guess I'll pipe in again!

After seeing this topic I was hoping you'd post up. I knew you'd have the best set up.

[DennisAJC]

Originally Posted by Big Z

Well, Guess I'll pipe in again!

Flat towing is the BEST way! My 2 was the FIRST towed (prototype) for the roadMaster set up! I haven't read the link yet but I can Guarantee it was the RV/towed H2's fault!!

They most likely Didn't have a Brakeaway Installed OR A BRAKING SYSTEM!

Their's a LOT of ****Heads out there that that don't have the proper set-ups!

That's the first thing I thought. Why didn't it have a brakeaway like yours. Sounds like the guy didn't properly invest in a tow set up.

[Big Z]

Originally Posted by Grizzy

Nice setup. Think I'd still prefer a car hauler personally. Less money to replace tires & bearings on a car hauler than it would be the H2. Not to mention the extra wear/tear on the drivetrain of the H2; transfer case, front/rear diffs, etc.. Of course you'd get less fuel mileage out of the RV pulling the H2 on a trailer, but does it matter? You're only getting maybe 5-6mpg out of the RV to begin with?.?. AND, if the roadmaster did happen to fail, you still wind up with a 60k vehicle in a ditch, probably rolled over, and perhaps still cause one hell of a wreck behind you with other innocent folks. Not trying to be difficult, just trying to understand how a tow bar system of any brand would be safer than a trailer. Again, nice setup though.

Thanks!

Where do I start!

Less money to replace tires & bearings on a car hauler than it would be the H2.

Does NOT Apply!...Haven't replaced them yet! Over 65K plus Towed Miles!

Think I'd still prefer a car hauler personally.

Impossible with Most RV's!--ONLY!...ONLY!!-- Diesel Pushers with A 15K Hitch Have a Shot @ the car Hauler thing, And Gross Combined Rating!

Not to mention the extra wear/tear on the drivetrain of the H2; transfer case, front/rear diffs, etc..

It's in Neutral (T/Case)...Just Rolling Along!

You're only getting maybe 5-6mpg out of the RV to begin with?.?.

Actually Closer to 10---If I keep My friggin foot off the fuel! and roll 60/65! Again Diesel Pusher!

AND, if the roadmaster did happen to fail, you still wind up with a 60k vehicle in a ditch, probably rolled over, and perhaps still cause one hell of a wreck

Not with out a 1/4 Mil plus coach laying beside it!!

1.) towbar has a 10K rating
2.) Brake Master--Air Proportional Braking System--
3.) Brakaway Installed!
4.) Drag Cables installed correctly
5.) I DON'T Play RoadMaster Happens to Fail!---My Chit Works!--I do what it takes to make er SAFE!!

just trying to understand how a tow bar system of any brand would be safer than a trailer.

Pro's----NONE!

Cons
1.) to much weight--Example, Car hauler rated @ 7K--Trailer Wt.=2400Lb, your payload would be 4600Lbs--H2 dry=6400
2.) Would be burning up a LOT of Brake pads or worst!
3.) Parking/ stroage
4.) MUST have a Big Rig to use,--A 15K hitch and enough GCWR to handle
5.) Would look like Chit!

[johndjmix1]

I do more and bigger towing with my RV than anyone I know. Like you guys said, first thing is you MUST have a breakaway device. Here in NY its required!

My new trailer (Should be finished in a few weeks) weighs 8,500lbs empty and 18,500lbs fully loaded to the max. I have spent hours of work and thousands of dollars on a camera system, breakway system, rewiring the RV with 10 Gauge brake wire, and im even fabricating a system with a buzzer that warns me if the brake controler loses power.

Got to be safe, especiallly when pulling somthing over 3,000lbs.

--John

[Big Z]

Originally Posted by DennisAJC

That's the first thing I thought. Why didn't it have a brakeaway like yours. Sounds like the guy didn't properly invest in a tow set up.

Ding! Ding!!

[obzidian]

one thing, I'm not understanding your numbers...

"to much weight--Example, Car hauler rated @ 7K--Trailer Wt.=2400Lb, your payload would be 4600Lbs--H2 dry=6400"

First, when you say car hauler, is that the actually R/V or a car hauler like a trailer? If the latter, what kind of open or even a enclosed trailer, weighs 7k?

And lastly, the payload, is that the weight in the r/v, total, or again, on the trailer with the h2?

Anyways, your setup does look pretty impressive.... i've never towed with a r/v like that so this is a learning experience...

[Big Z]

Originally Posted by obzidian

one thing, I'm not understanding your numbers...

"to much weight--Example, Car hauler rated @ 7K--Trailer Wt.=2400Lb, your payload would be 4600Lbs--H2 dry=6400"

First, when you say car hauler, is that the actually R/V or a car hauler like a trailer? If the latter, what kind of open or even a enclosed trailer, weighs 7k?

And lastly, the payload, is that the weight in the r/v, total, or again, on the trailer with the h2?

Anyways, your setup does look pretty impressive.... i've never towed with a r/v like that so this is a learning experience...

In the Example I used, The car Hauler is rated @ 7,000 pounds, if the Hauler/trailer weighs 2400 pounds empty, what you can put on it (car/payload) must Not exceed 4600 Pounds!----- 4600 + 2400=7000

Nothing to do with the RV!

[Grizzy]

The guy in the RV should go to P R I S O N for 20yrs, 5yrs for INVOLUNTARY MANSLAUGHTER, and 15yrs for BEING AN IDIOT!

[Big Z]

Here's another Example for ya!

My hauler is rated for 10K, (9,950) Curd Weight = 4,732 Paylosd can be 5,218 Pounds

Tongue Weight is Maxed @ 1000 Pounds On most rigs---475 is speced! on this set up

[Grizzy]

Originally Posted by Big Z

Here's another Example for ya!

My hauler is rated for 10K, (9,950) Curd Weight = 4,732 Paylosd can be 5,218 Pounds

Tongue Weight is Maxed @ 1000 Pounds On most rigs---475 is speced! on this set up

NICE SETUP!!!! I LIKE I LIKE I LIKE!!!