Woohoo! Got my FSM!

[evldave]

ok, so I'm probably a little too excited about a book (or two). Got the FSM today - $140 with shipping. Now I have 2 really big books with everything I ever needed to know about my H3!

Thanks to f5 for the link, now there's no more 'where does that wire go?' questions

[wordstew]

Great!!! could you tell me what the make and model# of the Flasher module/BCM and where it is located and finaly if it is compatible with the use of led lights

Thanks in advance for you response

[dеiтайожни]

Is your standard rate for information services of $40/hr minimum of 2 hours in effect yet?

[evldave]

Originally Posted by wordstew

Great!!! could you tell me what the make and model# of the Flasher module/BCM and where it is located and finaly if it is compatible with the use of led lights

Thanks in advance for you response

No, behind the lower passenger kick panel, no idea.

An FSM is great for schematics, construction diagrams, and various other things like breakout drawings and torque specs. I couldn't find the model # or whether/how BCM will react to LEDs. f5 might know, but he responded to your other thread, so that's likely the best you'll get here. The FSM is thousands and thousands of pages, so finding stuff will be difficult.

[evldave]

Originally Posted by dеiтайожни

Is your standard rate for information services of $40/hr minimum of 2 hours in effect yet?

Will work for beer

[Viet Nam Vette]

Originally Posted by evldave

ok, so I'm probably a little too excited about a book (or two). Got the FSM today - $140 with shipping. Now I have 2 really big books with everything I ever needed to know about my H3!

Thanks to f5 for the link, now there's no more 'where does that wire go?' questions

How About Posting that Link...

[evldave]

Originally Posted by Viet Nam Vette

How About Posting that Link...

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=16804

[Viet Nam Vette]

Originally Posted by evldave

http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=16804

Thanks..That was fun doen all 3 pages... Just like a Game show..

[Desert Dan]

Did it come with a CD also?

[evldave]

Originally Posted by Desert Dan

Did it come with a CD also?

Nope, I think the DVD (of all GM products) goes for $400.

[f5fstop]

Originally Posted by evldave

Nope, I think the DVD (of all GM products) goes for $400.

All GM products from 88 to the present. Too bad you didn't win the riddle

One thing about the printed books, they are great and extremely accurate at the time of printing. However, the GM online system is updated daily with any new procedures.
I can tell you right now, don't follow the procedure for removing a cylinder head from the I-5. It will work, but will take 10 hours longer than the new procedure we have developed over the past few weeks.

[f5fstop]

Originally Posted by wordstew

Great!!! could you tell me what the make and model# of the Flasher module/BCM and where it is located and finaly if it is compatible with the use of led lights

Thanks in advance for you response

Didn't I already answer this?????

Not sure if anyone would know how the BCM will react to the LEDs since GM never tested for this since the H3 was never designed to LED taillights. My suggestion is connect them and see what happens. If required, slap in the correct resistor load.
The load on those large resistors is higher than normal I believe, but it will be hit and miss for the first person.
I will tell you this, the LED lights used on the Cadillacs, have a complex circuit board installed in the light assemblies for the LEDs.

[evldave]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

All GM products from 88 to the present. Too bad you didn't win the riddle

One thing about the printed books, they are great and extremely accurate at the time of printing. However, the GM online system is updated daily with any new procedures.
I can tell you right now, don't follow the procedure for removing a cylinder head from the I-5. It will work, but will take 10 hours longer than the new procedure we have developed over the past few weeks.

Damn! I already started!

I bought the FSM for mostly tinkering stuff - schematics (huge help with installs), body panel removal, bumpers, etc. Hayes and Chilton never seem to give full schematics (at the level of the FSM).

Now, I just have to find an isolator for the 2nd battery...

[f5fstop]

Where will you install the second battery?

[evldave]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

Where will you install the second battery?

One of two locations at this point. I've done both of these on previous rigs and they have their benefits & drawbacks.

I have a spot on my roof rack that is the right size for the larger Yellotop (31?). I'll just run a 6-8 gauge wire from the isolator up A-piller and to the rear of the rack. From there, I can wire up the rack (lights, air compressor, 2 gauge down the rear for the rear winch connection). I actually once had 2 wallyworld deep cycles installed on the roof rack of my suburban - worked well but I had to run my 1.5kW inverter on the starting battery because there was no way to run the wiring for it from the roof down to the inverter (I think it was 1 or 2 gauge). I ditched that and went w/a 2nd battery in the engine compartment.

The other is under the sleeping platform behind the driver's seat (I've got another thread w/that - I pulled the rear seat out). This is the likely spot for now - it will allow me to run the inverter w/short cables on the backup battery, and not worry about starting. There's also enough room for 2 yellowtops there, which would be nice since i want to keep my computer on full time (have a P4 w/LCD sitting in my house waiting for my wrist to heal before I install). Plus, I can still run the rear winch connector from there throught the rear hatch (yes, imagine the impact on the power supply for the computer when I run the winch, that's why I also have a 500VA UPS ready to go as well). This is what I used on my Jeep.

I haven't had a chance to dig through the FSM yet, but also thinking the passenger side rear behind the panel. If I get a smaller battery, and there's nothing in there (is there?), that's an ideal situation. Neither internal solution works well for the air compressor (on the roof rack), so that will likely run off the main battery. Plus, internal batteries make it a PIA to self-jump when the main dies .


On both rigs, I used a basic 2-diode isolator (with the extra initator wire for the GM alternator). I'm concerned abou the voltage drop and it's impact on the electronics of a newer vehicle (sub is 88, jeep was 91).

Here's what I'm looking at:

http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/104/p/1/pt/5/product.asp

I haven't seen any isolators specific to the H3 with limited voltage drops (If my memory serves me right, it's 0.7v across a diode no matter what, so digital is better). If you have any ideas, please help!