WHO IS THE GENIUS ON THIS BOARD???

[wordstew]

Ok folks I have tried many many times to find this info for my H3, so far nobody can come up with the answer. So let's see if we got a genius on this board who can properly answer this question.

What type of flasher unit does the H3 have, thermal, electric, or a flasher module??

Will the current flasher unit/module allow me to use led bulbs without a problem?

How many pins? Make and model ## of the flasher/hazard unit/module?

Where is it located on the H3??

I am trying to convert to Led lights without using load resistors. My understanding is I need to have an appropriate flasher. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Wordstew

[The Green Lantern]

Oh, you meant H3 Genius......nevermind........just passing by...

[NoMoGMPG]

Originally Posted by wordstew

Ok folks I have tried many many times to find this info for my H3, so far nobody can come up with the answer. So let's see if we got a genius on this board who can properly answer this question.

What type of flasher unit does the H3 have, thermal, electric, or a flasher module??

Will the current flasher unit/module allow me to use led bulbs without a problem?

How many pins? Make and model ## of the flasher/hazard unit/module?

Where is it located on the H3??

I am trying to convert to Led lights without using load resistors. My understanding is I need to have an appropriate flasher. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Wordstew

After checking the parts catalog, there isn't a 'flasher' listed, which leads me to believe they are controlled by a module. As long as you are using 12V LED's, I don't see a problem.

[wordstew]

If the H3 does indeed have a flasher module. How does it regulate the flash rate and will it think the bulb is out if I put in leds.


Thanks for any input

[f5fstop]

The H3 uses GM's latest and greatest body control module, and the flasher is the module or the module is the flasher ; one reason why it sounds weird.
Whether or not it will compensate for the lower amp draw on the LEDs is something I can't say. It is a pretty damn smart BCM, and with the low draw, it could think the circuit is open.
Sorry, can't help any further than that, but be curious to see what you find out.

[wordstew]

Considering trying the new luxeon Leds. They draw around 4 watts a piece. Hopefully that will be just enough draw so the BCM doesn't act up.

[RIC-H0]

Originally Posted by wordstew

Considering trying the new luxeon Leds. They draw around 4 watts a piece. Hopefully that will be just enough draw so the BCM doesn't act up.

Why not just leave the OEM flashers hooked up, and tap into them. This way the BCM will not know the difference?

[wordstew]

I think if I leave the oem flashers hooked up it is the same as using a load resistor and defeats the power savings you get by using the leds.

[f5fstop]

Originally Posted by wordstew

I think if I leave the oem flashers hooked up it is the same as using a load resistor and defeats the power savings you get by using the leds.

Ric-Ho had an idea, just hide the bulb so it does not show through. As for the load, are you going to install some high-wattage lights and that is why you need less draw?

Other question I have, since I'm not familiar with these LEDs, are they safe for a generator hit, or will they fry unless you install resistance in the circuit. I know when I installed LEDs in the I/P of my Vette, I had to wire in 570 resistors into each LED or the straight 12 volts fried them instantly.

[HUMTECH]

I would just check output voltage at the oem lamps using A good voltmeter on min/max setting. Heres A diagram.

[NEOCON1]

i like it when we talk about tires

[f5fstop]

BIG shecmatic Output voltage will be 12-14 volts depending on generator output. Whether or not this voltage will blow the LEDs is dependent on the type of LEDs installed. However, most will require some type of step down resistor to cut the current.

[wordstew]

The Luxeon reds are 3-4 watts. I hoping this is enough juice for the BCM to operate properly

[H3less]

Originally Posted by NEOCON1

i like it when we talk about tires

How about them Racks?

[ChevyHighPerformance]

Originally Posted by wordstew

The Luxeon reds are 3-4 watts. I hoping this is enough juice for the BCM to operate properly

Are you considering the Luxeon III's? What power current level were you going to run them at? Do you have a heatsink? Are you going to use a current regulator or just a resistor?

To test if the flasher is current based, you can probably disconnect the connector from a turn-signal bulb, for example, and see if the flash rate changes (or disconnect both front and rear and connect a voltmeter to see if the voltage switches at the normal rate between B+ and gnd). The BCM supplies voltage to the turn signal bulbs. I'm guessing that BCM control the switching rate independent of bulb current.

I would place a capacitor across the LED's terminals to act as a voltage snubber and place a diode (1n4001) antiparallel to the LED to prevent any reverse voltage transients on the Luxeon.

[Lucifer]

You must use a resistor from the 12v to the LED. If you hook up a 3 watt or less LED to the 12v it will burn out do to extra voltage. Unless you are very familiar with electronics, I would not attempt this, but wait until a product is available.

The only way you could hook up LED's without a resistor is to hook up enough LED's in a row so that the current draw is equivalent to 12v. Once you do this the only positive result is that the LED's will have a longer life than the standard bulb. They will now be using the same 12v draw as the bulb.