Exhaust,intake,throttle body spacer

[Hunner]

Snorkle removed. All of this together may finally add up to 2 mpg which would be nice but probably just fun. That is why I bought my H3.

[wpage]

Originally Posted by Hunner

If you have not had this apart here is the "snorkle" end that goes into the inner fender. I stuck my hand down in the fender and all I felt was the back of the park/turn signal lamp. There ya go just take out the light and you got air! Trying to come up from the hole in the front cowl would be tough for clearance reasons and dirty wet air down that low. I really dont see how the air was getting in there except for a few small stamped holes and gaps. They had a foam seal like for what? Maybe the obvious to keep out some heated air but everything in there is heated. Im sure some engineer had a plan. I took off the snorkle just for grins because I want the stock lid on the box. It really muffels the sound back down to acceptable.

You hit the nail on the head about a engineer having a idea. Many threads have eluded to this mystery intake. How to increase air flow w/o a turbo will certainly improve performace. Did you find room to insert your fender scoop and hit this existing "snorkle"?
Like to know what that engineer was going off the end of that pvc end pipe!

[Hunner]

Oh I can make it come out right. I was not going to connect them. Just provide air into the space between flare and inner fender like on my truck. That way any bugs or FOD (foreign object debri) and water fall out by gravity and the engine can suck outside air instead of ambient air trapped in there. I really was not expecting the air to "ram" into the engine with much result. I thought it would be better for the engine to pull what it needs. What the heck do I know? On the turbo idea, after driving this Cummins since 95 which is a six cylinder but a big one Im not sure it would help at low rpms. It takes some throttle before the turbo spools up. Towing it works great because the engine has to work so calls on the turbo to boost. Just my imagination at work.

[socal-h3]

how are you getting "lower" rpms with small power gains? i dont think that adding power to the engine has any affect on your cruising rpms. that has to do with the gearing in the tranny and hp does not change gearing. am i over looking something here?

[Hunner]

Well more torque is what I understand to push you farther on the same rpms. It was the same on my truck.

[Hunner]

Ok got the mock up or protype today. Just wanted to post that an AirMax intake for a Colorado truck will not work on our H3 because of the air conditioner hose over there will not let it line up. So they made me one. They pulled it off to make a cad drawing and have one laser cut and powder coated. Im going back Wed to put the prototype on and drive it for a few days to see if all works well.
The throttle body spacer by them works on the H3 and the stock air will all go back on. The True Flow would work as well.
SOPD will have to do for comparison to a Colorado because the dyno is not for four wheel drive. I guess GM either has one or matamatically figured HP and torque.
For now we used the bellows coupler from the stock setup. We increased the tube size over the True Flow pipe from 3" to 3 1/2" same size all the way from throttle body to filter. We were making this up as we went along and decided with the full volume pipe we could leave the bellows to allow for engine torque and movement especially in low range and uneven terrain. Just a thought. I know it does not look as smoothe but they wanted to try this for now. More later, I have started a mpg log but I think the first tank is going to be poor, I can not keep from WOT to hear and feel it! Im still running no Muffler and straight pipe where it was but left the cat, oval pipe and resonator for now.
I still have mixed feelings about the open filter off-road but after all the engine is going to suck in whats out there. I now have the options for either. Water is my main concern about the wide open exposed filter. I guess in monsoon season I can swap.

[Hunner]

Here is a close up of the protoype. They glued in the spiral flow section. Im getting dizzy just thinking about all this. Its a section of plastic tubing, very thin that has a spiral twist raised ridge for about four inches. Whatever.........

[Hunner]

Gang machining on the CNC

[Hunner]

The mother load!

[ROADNOTCA]

Originally Posted by MountainBlue

PCMforless.com is doing a tune now for $199

If you want the exhaust open you need to get rid of the crushed piping in the downpipe, before and after the cat. And the intake, the part that is restrictive is the pipe that goes into the wheel well, its like 1.25-1.5" , freakin terrible. With everything opened up, the H3 does have more punch, its just the AWD system saps A LOT of power. I've heard its like a 39% driveline loss from crank to wheels.

I installed PCMforless Sunday, lots of fun. Hows this idea; take off the front drive shaft for M-F driving. I haven't looked under there, but it seems like it would be the equivalent of shifting an old T-case into 2H, unload that ~39%. If anyone gets to this before I do, be sure to mark the orientation of the flange/u-joint so you can return the D-shaft to the original postion; its balanced (for 100 MPH?). GM tried this "full time 4WD" ~30 years ago on the K5.

[ChevyHighPerformance]

Originally Posted by Hunner

Ok got the mock up or protype today. Just wanted to post that an AirMax intake for a Colorado truck will not work on our H3 because of the air conditioner hose over there will not let it line up. So they made me one. They pulled it off to make a cad drawing and have one laser cut and powder coated. Im going back Wed to put the prototype on and drive it for a few days to see if all works well.
The throttle body spacer by them works on the H3 and the stock air will all go back on. The True Flow would work as well.
SOPD will have to do for comparison to a Colorado because the dyno is not for four wheel drive. I guess GM either has one or matamatically figured HP and torque.
For now we used the bellows coupler from the stock setup. We increased the tube size over the True Flow pipe from 3" to 3 1/2" same size all the way from throttle body to filter. We were making this up as we went along and decided with the full volume pipe we could leave the bellows to allow for engine torque and movement especially in low range and uneven terrain. Just a thought. I know it does not look as smoothe but they wanted to try this for now. More later, I have started a mpg log but I think the first tank is going to be poor, I can not keep from WOT to hear and feel it! Im still running no Muffler and straight pipe where it was but left the cat, oval pipe and resonator for now.
I still have mixed feelings about the open filter off-road but after all the engine is going to suck in whats out there. I now have the options for either. Water is my main concern about the wide open exposed filter. I guess in monsoon season I can swap.

Did you match the ID of the stock air tube where the MAF is located?

[Hunner]

Actually no. I did ask about that. That is about 2 1/2 right at the sensor on the stock air box and opens up to 3 1/4 on the short stub that connects to the accordian type stock hose. Mine is a 3 1/2 piece of pipe and slightly less id. I will check that for info. Just the thickness of pipe less. If I understand it right it wants to meter 5% air but Im not sure about how all that computes.
We road tested and everything checked out. Then about an hour later I got the check engine light. They took that one off and made a new one moving the mounting point closer to the engine end. I have been about 100 miles since then and no light. It is a protoype. Im surprised it has worked so well. They wanted to make sure I had enough flex between ridgid mount shield and engine. I think that sacrificed the smooth transiton I wanted. We are not thru yet.
The True Flow design pipe is really a great idea and could be made easily. I think I found a source for the silicone boots. They have some generic black ones where I did all this for $15 each. Without opening the stock box you dont gain more air. That setup would work well if you put on the top for off-road nasty conditions. It still improves performance with the lid on but not as much. I let the air down on my tires off-road so I could easily swap intakes. For casual off-road it would probably be ok either way. I go to a park, SuperLift here in Arkansas on weekends and drive alot so I would like it covered for that.
Any input is appreciated. More experimenting is needed.

[ROADNOTCA]

Originally Posted by ROADNOTCA

I installed PCMforless Sunday, lots of fun. Hows this idea; take off the front drive shaft for M-F driving. I haven't looked under there, but it seems like it would be the equivalent of shifting an old T-case into 2H, unload that ~39%. If anyone gets to this before I do, be sure to mark the orientation of the flange/u-joint so you can return the D-shaft to the original postion; its balanced (for 100 MPH?). GM tried this "full time 4WD" ~30 years ago on the K5.

Scrap the idea removing the front D-shaft. Because of the diff in the T-case, there is no 2H mode, yet.