Air Intake, Exhaust

[H2Much]

I am looking to get a cold air intake for my ride, the tiem has come. A couple of questions to some of the techy people or those who have been there, done that: First, will installing a cold air intake really make that much of a difference in performance? I have been looking at and studying the stock intake in there now, and it seems to already draw quite a bit of air, so I wonder if an aftermarket cold air one would make much of a difference. I do have a programmer chip as well, so maybe that can help someone answer this question.

Second question: If so, what is a good cold air intake that is legit on the dyno?

Also, I posted a while back regarding information on a custom exhaust system, and I got great information. Since, then, I have had a little change of heart and am probably looking for a bolt on instead of having it done custom due to the fact there are zero experts on that stuff here where I live. Also, would doing a bolt on aftermarket exhaust system help me in performance? The overall goal I am looking at with these upgrades is to increase top end power and get better gas mileage. If these will help, let me know and what suggestions you may have.

Thanks team.

[Xotik H3]

Opinions are going to vary, and as I am sure you know, the easier air gets in and out the more power you will make.

I put an Airaid filter in to replace the stock filter... it is a little more responsive and increases efficiency. I also put a MagnaFlow catback and am very happy with the sound. I did not noticing anything else powerwise with the Magnaflow.

Being real - maybe 10 more HP, nothing you can feel, but I did notice a .5 MPG increase. To really notice anything you will have to get a custom tune, the handhelds aren't going to do much.

The stock intake flows just fine with a high flow filter... and flows more CFM than your engine needs. The intakes are marketing and 1 hp per 100 spent.

My 2c, and keep the change.

[H2Much]

Thanks for the input. I am figuring this might end up being the case.

[scottminor]

Get a supercharge if you want to make a difference. I have a whipple charger and can't tell you enough how much my friends scratch thier heads when I hit the gas. They can't believe something that heavy could move like that.

[Xotik H3]

Originally Posted by scottminor

Get a supercharge if you want to make a difference. I have a whipple charger and can't tell you enough how much my friends scratch thier heads when I hit the gas. They can't believe something that heavy could move like that.

I COMPLETELY agree. Magnacharger, Whipple is definately the way to go. I would add one but won't for a few reasons.

- Must use premium fuel. The tank is big enough with 87... not willing to pay for 92 at 10 or 11 MPG,

- The Trans, bottom, transfer case and rear are not made to last with 450 HP.

- If I wanted 500 HP, I would have bought a ZO6.

Just not for me, but I like it on yours!

[guruerror]

I went with a the K&N "Fuel Injection Performance Kit" (57 series) and a Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust (with ceramic Gibson shorty headers).

I did the K&N first...I noticed a bit more response from the throttle and a bit more growl from the motor...nice.

The exhaust work was done about a year later...much better sound, maybe a little better throttle response and pick-up, but I could also just be 'thinking' it's better cause the truck 'sounded' so much better.

Just like Xotik H3, I got about another .5-.7 MPG after doing both. I've averaged 11.8 over my last 10,000 miles.

These CAI and exhaust are the first two mods I do to every vehicle. They're the mods that keep on giving...power AND MPG! Let that motor BREATHE a little easier.

[IRA51]

I sugest you get your H2 dynoed B4 the intake and exaust ,then dynoed after and when you see a 2 HP differance after spending $600.00 or more you won't be a happy camper . But you will get lots of kool sound . On a stock engine you will see almost no power gain with a cat back and intake .

[mbdougl]

I found this on another site, it cracked me up.

Simple engineering calculations!
Each 11F air temp drop increases density by 1%, so measure the air flow temperature before and after a change to se how much you gained.

Air flow restiction can be easily measured with a manometer attached just in front of MAF. The absolute aymospheric pressure is 407 inches of water column at sealevel [29.92" HG].

Normal oem intake and air filter have ~~ 6-7" H2O of restriction as measured in front of MAF. So measure before and after. So a 4" improvement at peak rpm [4/27.7 = 0.1444 x 0.68 = ~ 1% improvement].

3 HP maximum improvement +- any temperature change improvement.

Most after market system actually increase temperature [measured at highway speed] so measuring temp is a must.

Reminds me of the old days when we used to flip the air cleaner lid over on the carb, made it sound like you had all kinds of power but actually was pulling in hotter air!

[Scarsman]

Originally Posted by mbdougl

Reminds me of the old days when we used to flip the air cleaner lid over on the carb, made it sound like you had all kinds of power but actually was pulling in hotter air!

Ah yes! The good old days! Sure did sound cool!

[H2Much]

Thanks for the input guys. I think I might try the intake and see about doing headers and exhaust. I keep getting the supercharger advice, but I can't affor to buy one of those and then replace everything after 10,000 miles of it burning everything up on my ride. I am hoping that with my regear and the superchip that the intake and exhaust will compliment the performance of the chip a little bit more.

I am super satisfied now with the regear and the chip from how it was riding before, but I just need a little bit more.... just on the top end....

[kchummer]

The K&N is a waist of money IMO....I was tired of the growl and hiss it put out and when temps were in the 100's, I feel the design of the K&N lets in too much hot air from motor/plus 100 degree weather that it hindered performance more than helped...so I went back to stock setup....The Volant is probably the best since it's a totally sealed design, yet is more freely flowing than stock...just my 2 cents before you spend a lot of cash

[IRA51]

K&N and all Oiled filters let more dirt pass than OE paper filters . They will only have a litle more flow above 35000rpm's on a stock engine. If you send your oil out and have it anilised (spelling) you will se an increase in silicats with a K&N over OEM filters . Been there Done that .

[Xotik H3]

Originally Posted by IRA51

K&N and all Oiled filters let more dirt pass than OE paper filters . They will only have a litle more flow above 35000rpm's on a stock engine. If you send your oil out and have it anilised (spelling) you will se an increase in silicats with a K&N over OEM filters . Been there Done that .

The only thing you got right in your post is K&N uses oil in the filter.

[AbdulMateen]

I just made minor changes. I haded a Superchips cortex and just put on a Magnaflow model 16673. I notice the faster take off and speed. Im only using 87 oct. Im going to add a Cold air system, headers and 22 or 24 on atr tires. Any suggestions on performence parts that i can add is welcome. i have a 04 H2 85% blacked out.

[IRA51]

For those that want to know the truth and not remain ignorant http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
As for the rest enjoy your K&N and the dirt that it pass's.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

[IRA51]

http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Upgrade/Air_filter.htm
MORE PROOF .
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=117009

[Scarsman]

Originally Posted by IRA51

K&N and all Oiled filters let more dirt pass than OE paper filters . They will only have a litle more flow above 35000rpm's on a stock engine. If you send your oil out and have it anilised (spelling) you will se an increase in silicats with a K&N over OEM filters . Been there Done that .

I'll back you on this. I have seen a lot of bikes/quads running K&N filters, as well as trucks. Without fail in the ones used in dusty environments I always see dirt residue stuck to the intake walls post filter. If you talk to a serious performance bike/quad engine builder they will recomend against K&N type filters for dune machines, because they will let more dust through. Incidently, foam is not great in sand either, as the sand grains can migrate through the foam.

I have run both K&N and stock filters in many of my own trucks, and I am back to using stock filters due to always finding dust and dirt past the filter with the non stock filters.

If I was building a race car or a street only high performance engine, I would run a K&N, but anything going offroad I'll stick to stock type filters.