Dif and Tcase fluid change

[f5fstop]

Originally Posted by wpage

Follow your owners manual...

Can't it is not accurate for those produced prior to the VIN, and may not be accurate for those produced after the VIN.
The t/case engineering is checking, but it appears right now there may be three different scenarios (MAYBE). Built prior to the VIN, with a sticker and with a blue dot.
Still checking....

[Desert Dan]

What's the diff?

Why would there be a different amount of fluid in the same axle housing?

[f5fstop]

Originally Posted by Desert Dan

What's the diff?

Why would there be a different amount of fluid in the same axle housing?

We are not talking different axle housings, we are talking transfer cases. The reason is drive line angle, and the need for more fluid.

[Desert Dan]

Oops

I missed the t-case part. Is it for the 4:1 T-case or all T-cases

[f5fstop]

All T-cases. The end drive-line angle was different than design, by just enough to warrant some extra fluid. A problem COULD occur due to the lack of this small amount of fluid. However, when they first sent out the bulletin, the requirements for a problem to occur would almost mean the t/case was in 4x4 LO Lock for a continuous 500 miles while climbing.
Almost impossible, but to be safe and yes, cut any future warranty, they decided to add the extra fluid.
Supposedly there was a change to be made to the case or to the shift fork. So far, I believe I have totally confused the t/case engineer. He appeared to be caught on the procedure versus the blue dot versus the bulletin. To give him credit, he just took over this part. So, he is doing some research.
He is also checking into some POSSIBLE changes that may have been made to the front differential (HERE THAT BEBE?).

[f5fstop]

Here is the scoop?.
If your vehicle was produced manufactured prior to and including VIN5GTDN136968105387, when you do a t/case fluid change, you should fill the t/case at the fill hole, and when fluid starts to run out, re-insert the fill plug and torque to 18 lb-ft (25 N?m). Then remove the connector from the speed sensor, and remove the speed sensor, then add an additional 8.45 oz (250 ml) of Dexron III trans fluid into the t/case via the speed sensor hole.
Then re-install the vehicle speed sensor and torque to 13 lb ft (17 N?m), and reconnect the connector.



If your vehicle was manufactured after VIN5GTDN136968105387, and there is a sticker on the rear housing of the t/case that states add extra fluid to the t/case via the speed sensor, then add the extra fluid.

If you vehicle was manufactured after VIN5GTDN136968105387, and there is no sticker on the t/case, and there is a distinctive BLUE DOT on the housing, then o not add extra fluid via the vehicle speed sensor hole. The fill hole has been raised to allow for the additional required fluid.

Do not confuse the green (or sometimes) blue line that is near where the front and rear cases fit together. This line is added by the person who torques the t/case bolts and is used for quality control to verify bolts were torqued.

[ziemann]

BUMP-

Hi folks-

I rarely post, and today ran across this again as a part of my search, SO I thought it would be worthy of a bump-

I am glad I found this. I happen to be one of those that is after the VIN number but has the sticker on the transfer case....thus I need the extra ATF.

I am doing my first fluid replacement at 53,000 miles....

Anyone have an issue with me replacing my transfer case ATF with Amsoil Synthetic ATF?

[RubHer Yellow Ducky]

Originally Posted by ziemann

BUMP-

Hi folks-

I rarely post, and today ran across this again as a part of my search, SO I thought it would be worthy of a bump-

I am glad I found this. I happen to be one of those that is after the VIN number but has the sticker on the transfer case....thus I need the extra ATF.

I am doing my first fluid replacement at 53,000 miles....

Anyone have an issue with me replacing my transfer case ATF with Amsoil Synthetic ATF?

I'm lifting a Amber Bock Draft to you...ICE COLD of course

Your one of the few who understand the word SEARCH...

Congrats

[NEOCON1]

Originally Posted by RubHer Yellow Ducky

I'm lifting a Amber Bock Draft to you...ICE COLD of course

Your one of the few who understand the word SEARCH...

Congrats

X2 and not a pad-a-holic like the rest of us

Now I'm getting thirsty...

[deserth3]

GM Owners center has added this to the monthly checks. I'm pretty sure it wasn't there before.

Make sure the safety belt reminders light and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors, and anchorages are working properly.
Look for any other loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts replaced.
Look for any opened or broken air bag coverings, and have them repaired or replaced.
Inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace blade inserts that appear worn or damaged or that streak or miss areas of the windshield.
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather, more frequent application may be required.
Check the transaxle fluid level; add if needed.

Damn now I need to crawl under my truck and take a look.

[f5fstop]

From the owner's manual:
Automatic Transmission Fluid
When to Check and Change Automatic Transmission Fluid
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed.


Manual the same...

[marin8703]

hey while on the subject of diff fluid heres a question. Is it ok for some fluid to be comming out of the front diff rite where the shaft from the transfer case comes in? my guess is no. its not just a little, it seems to be comming out quite well, and its getting splashed around in a circular fashion. its up on the engine as well. Its draining down to the diff plug, and then is pooling a little on the shield.

heres some pics, i made an appointment on monday with the dealership. Do you guys think its ok to drive like this untill then, dont really know how much has already come out?

this where its coming from


heres some splashed up on the engine around it


here from the front along the shaft


heres it draining to around where the bolt is (lowest point on diff) and then falls on the shiled


The fluid doesnt seem to be coming out when the shft isnt rotating, so i cant tell the rate at which it comming out.

so as asked earlier do you guys think its ok to drive around until monday? and also for that to be fixed does it requre a new diff, or just a replacement of the connection there?

thanks for any help.

[f5fstop]

Front drive pinion shaft seal is leaking and apparently leaking quite a bit.
As for driving, depends on how much has leaked out. You could pull the sight/fill plug and add some fluid, but the synthetic fluid is very expensive. Or using a coat hanger, pipe cleaner, etc. stick it in the hole and see how low the level is.

If it appears to leak only when rotating, that tells me the seal is either bad at the top, or if bad at the bottom, the level has dropped pretty low.

[marin8703]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

Front drive pinion shaft seal is leaking and apparently leaking quite a bit.
As for driving, depends on how much has leaked out. You could pull the sight/fill plug and add some fluid, but the synthetic fluid is very expensive. Or using a coat hanger, pipe cleaner, etc. stick it in the hole and see how low the level is.

If it appears to leak only when rotating, that tells me the seal is either bad at the top, or if bad at the bottom, the level has dropped pretty low.

thanks f5, just to be safe i wont drive it this weekend. If i get a chance i mite do the coat hanger thing to see where the fluid is at.

[marin8703]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

Front drive pinion shaft seal is leaking and apparently leaking quite a bit.
As for driving, depends on how much has leaked out. You could pull the sight/fill plug and add some fluid, but the synthetic fluid is very expensive. Or using a coat hanger, pipe cleaner, etc. stick it in the hole and see how low the level is.

If it appears to leak only when rotating, that tells me the seal is either bad at the top, or if bad at the bottom, the level has dropped pretty low.

f5, do you know what the fix is for that, will the whole diff be switched out or just the seal? Which ever it is how long do you think the work would be?

thanks

[f5fstop]

Seal replace is about 2 hours, so figure it is an all-day drop off for the H3 at the dealer. They will replace the seal not the diff, unless it is something other than a bad seal. Seals that leak early in the components life, are usually damaged upon installation of the seal into the component during component assembly; or damaged when another component is installed (in this case, the shaft is installed inside the diff).
In this case, if the pinion shaft is slightly crooked when installed into the diff, it could slightly cut the ID of the seal, that over a short time will cause a leak.

(I guess I could add, it could be something else like a cracked diff in the shaft area, but that is extremely rare. It could also be porosity of the case, which also is very rare, so I would bet it is the seal, but not being there....)

[marin8703]

Thanks f5, , on my way to drop it off rite now.