Has anyone paid less than $300?
Thanks.
My original windshild has 3 chips/bullseyes that were repaired and have a good 3 or 4 other ones not repaired that arent turning into cracks.(hundreds of super small dots )
I bounce harshly (30 to 40 MPH)on the woop dee doos on the back trails of the beach and no problems.
A aftermarket windshield might not hold up as well.
Also in Ny theres no deductable for glass so price is not important.
Im waiting for one smack center or a crack before replacing.
$300 seams like a good price aftermarket or not.
I wouldnt be suprized if OEM was double that installed.
H3 gray adventure,brushguard,hood handles,sunroof,steps,crossbows,smokers package,window/sunroof visor,Airbrushed spare tire cover,mudflaps,K&N filter,SS Hummer insert,Hummer rubber mats,cargo rubber mat + shade,12 volt airhorn,eclipse nav/dvd/rear camera/mini remote,autostart,12 volt fridge,high beam garage remote,underhood air compressor, taillight bezels ,clinometer ,trailer brake and hitch.
but turned me on to thier glass guy who did it on the side for $350.
Here is something I posted on another forum regarding the replacement
process and some things I learned from the experience.
************************************************** **
OK?
So I finally got around to having my windshield replaced today and thought I?d share some cheesy photos of the process??..
Popped off the breather covers:
Removed the door moldings and screws from the side reveals:
Notice all the black goop the dealer puts in to correct that pesky wind noise issue:
Wipers come off then the top cowl. Note: that special tool is all that stands between the installer and a broken cowl. 3 bills or so I believe.
Now the sub cowl comes off:
Removal time:
Slap some goo on it and reverse the process.
I learned a few things from the guys that did the replacement. They do a ton of these a month.
Use only folks that have done HUMMERS before. There are tricks to the job not everyone knows.
Example, if they don't have that tool for removing the top cowl, it's a 50/50 shot they will break it.
These guys make special rubber spacers to position and cushion the glass from possible metal contact in rough terrain.
If you have roof lights they charge $100 extra. Seems there is an issue with the riv-nuts having to be drilled out.
If you get a chip or small crack, get it repaired BEFORE it gets as bad as mine did. As a general rule, if you can cover
the damage with a dollar bill, they can do a repair. The site will be a little distorted, but it stops the damage from spreading
and is a hell of a lot cheaper. You can do multiple repairs if necessary.
Cure time is 3 hours prior to driving, 72 for a permanent cure.
During the cure times, leave a window cracked to shut a door and close them for highway driving...The pressure will F it up.
I know this is a huge post, but I found the whole process very interesting and figured if just one of you do as well, then it was worth it.
"The indiscriminate use of vulgar language is the linguistic crutch of the inarticulate m*therf*cker."
-Author Unknown
It makes a nice paper wieght....
So far so good....No leaks, no wind noise.........
"The indiscriminate use of vulgar language is the linguistic crutch of the inarticulate m*therf*cker."
-Author Unknown
Thanks for taking the time to post the pic's
It makes a nice paper wieght....
So far so good....No leaks, no wind noise.........
great info , the dealers need a better way to address the wind noise issue besides all that filler
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