Ride height adjustment (front lift) PICS ADDED

[MxHonda]

The H3 appears to be "stinkbugging". Over on the Colorado forum they are able to raise the front almost 2" by adjusting the torsion bars. Can this be done on the H3 to level the ride height?

[MxHonda]

1. I took the floor jack and lifted the front tires off the ground.
2. I marked the bolts for the torsion bars with a red marker to give me an index point.
3. I then took a 1-1/16" socket and gave 5 full turns of the bolt and dropped it off the jack.

The end result...1 1/2" of lift on the front and alot more level appearance. I need to check the headlight aim and toe-in later...

NOTE: No offset keys were needed.

[FormerJeeper]

I'm interested in how it rides too.
Me thinks it will fit 35s with the offroad suspension with only a little front fender trimming

-C

[MxHonda]

After 100 miles today, 5 turns is too much...I did learn alot about our front suspension though. As jagular mentioned earlier, the bump stops serve a purpose. With 5 turns, the nose dive on braking is pretty noticable until the bump stops are reached. Also, as Felsmann said, the suspension would top out when larger bumps were hit and you could hear the "thunk" when it extended to its limit. The ride on the highway was the same as before the "lift" with little or no affect (NOT including Michigan Highways). On side roads the steering wheel would "float" which shows that an alignment was required.

I backed them back down to 2 full turns and only lost 1/2" of lift, but the bump stops are near normal position now. I will report back tomorrow night.

[kacyk]

Easy does it, just a couple of turns is all it needs. Even at two turns the ride quality is suffers (stiff).

[KenP]

While picking up our H2 today, an H3 came in with ride problems. The owner said that when going over the crest of small speed bumps and such, the truck would "bang" down.

It turns out that after raising the front 1 1/2"'s with the torsion bars the front end was seriously pre-loaded. Things just snapped shut when going over the bumps.

He decided to leave them the way they are and live with the banging.

[kacyk]

I had the shop crank it up 3 turns. I highly recommend not exceeding 2 turns. The ride, even at 3 turns is sufficiently compromised. Give it 2 turns and some miles to settle in. I think you'll like the the balance of ride and looks. Most of all, replace those skinny tires with something meaty!

[MxHonda]

Leveled...Back is only 1" higher than the front now.

[SledgeHummer]

Only if you are a frequent Offroader boulder. If your vehicle never steps out of the road a 1 inch T-bar tweak is relatively safe. no need for re-indexers.

If you go Offroading quite often, T-Bar tweaking puts stress on Ball Joints (in general). Re-indexers gives you the benefit of lifting without the negative effects.

DuneH3

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by boulderhummer:
any of you guys think its a good idea to install a re-indexer/off set key even if your only going to raise it and inch...
will it matter or not?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

[felsmann]

The reindexers just allow you to increase the maximum lift. They are typically used if...

A) your truck is old and the torsion bars have started to sag, or

B) if you want more lift than what turning the screws all the way in provides, which in a new truck could be beyond 3 inches - not a good idea.

As far as the comment regarding ball joints goes, it is true that lifting by Tbar "twisting" can accelerate damage in some vehicles, especially S-10s. What is not true is that the re-indexers will avoid this damage, the reindexer is the same principle as turning the screw on the T-bar but increasing maximum lift. What causes the damage on the S-10 truck ball joints is the angles at which the ball joints operate, and the overall design of the front end components.

I had an Explorer in the past with Tbars at 2" for 4 year and never had a problem, so it depends on the vehicle.
I'd recommend start with 1-1.5 inches and no more.

Good luck!

[boulderhummer]

thanks man

[DeLeon]

Yeah.. I walso want to know how stiff the ride is now.. when I did this in my old ISUZU trooper the ride was awfull...

Also, what are the offset keys for? What difference would that make?

[LAREDO TEXAS]

with 2 turns can you notice the diffrence in hight?

[timgco]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by MyxH3:
I was have decided to use the re-index keys as well as torquing the torsion bars, I will probably also replace the stock bump stops with possibly some energy suspension ones to compensate for the nose dive breaking issues. I think this will hold me over until the actual lifts become available. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Rancho's 4" is ready to order now and will ship on the 16th. If you plan on lifting, Id just wait. SEMA is on Nov. and I'm sure there will be other lifts there also.

[Mu-taint]

I have a 2004 GMC Canyon that I "tweeked" the torsion bars on. Acheived a nice 1 and 3/4" lift in the front. I now have 40K on her and not a problem with suspendion or steering. I wouldn't go any higher then that because the ride will greatly suffer! I've heard of some dealers that will do this for you if you tell them you are going to add accessories such as a heavy brush guard or winch! It cost my buddy $80 plus alingment!
Just remember you have to get an alingment ASAP after you adjust your torsion bars!!!!

[hyperion78]

i'll keep my fingers crossed for you and hopefully it doesn't go *pop*

[MxHonda]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by evomind:
i want to know why they didnt make it level from the factory?
is there a reason? i cant believe it "just happened" that one side sits 2" lower than the other. (front to back). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

In one of the H3 advirtisments, it states "your passangers wont even notice" talking about hard braking. I think the front is lower because:

1) when braking, the stock setup rests on the bump stops and does not allow the nose to dive.

2) because of the limits on range of motion with IFS, they needed to keep the ride in the middle of the suspension range of motion. This alone forced them to use the lower front ride height (they would have had to redesign the frame/IFS mounting like the lift kit companies will do). If you crank up the front too much, the range of upward suspension motion is decreasd. This causes the shock/suspension to "top out" an reach the upper limit when the front becomes unsprung. (clear as mud?)

[Larry W]

can you give us a couple side pics as well...

[jagular7]

How do you measure the difference between front to rear?

I would think you would need a point reference like one right behind the front tire and one in front of the rear tire on the kick panel. Why not just take a level on the kick panel?

[kacyk]

[/quote]
The ride quality with 2 turns is the same as stock and raises the front to be within 1" of the rear.[/quote]

MX,

My wheels came in so when I get back to Seattle on Saturday I will have them put on my 35/12.50-18 mud tires. I plan on having them turn the torsion nut 2 times (as you ended up doing). Before I go ahead, however, do you still feel that the ride is the same without any ill effects? Thanks, Kacy