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#21
11-29-2005, 04:53 PM
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The scary duck stuff is cool but won't work with my lift.
#22
11-29-2005, 05:19 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
The scary duck stuff is cool but won't work with my lift. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I think you really only have one option.
CUSTOM!
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#24
11-29-2005, 05:55 PM
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Tim, I know. It will be fun though. I am taking measurements and figuring out what will work.
I love drty's rock rails, and I was hoping that I could negate the need for a step in extending them.
#25
11-29-2005, 05:58 PM
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But I could only do it about an inch unless I want to start cutting- and that's not going to happen. The extension should protrude it enough for the ball of a foot or something.
I am also looking into creating something to extend off the rails to protect the torsion bars.
#26
11-29-2005, 06:09 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
The scary duck stuff is cool but won't work with my lift. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Why not? I believe they mount to the frame rails...Is it because of the Fabtech drop member for the torsion bars?
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1999 AMGeneral H1 6.5TD BLACK Wagon e-Lockers Front and Back, Rubberduck4x4 RockTubes, Extended Undercarriage Protection,"Big Duck" 2" body lift/2 1/2" suspension lift, 41" IROK Radials on 17" Cepeks w/Rock Rims, (in process)Centered front diff, 3.08 gears, 12k Brakes and 12k halfshafts
#27
11-29-2005, 06:33 PM
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Leave the part that mounts to the frame and the inner rail alone. Cut the outer rail off at the horizontal mounts. Use some plate steel to extend the tabs so that the outer rail is sticking out the proper amount. Also add some extra tabs for extra support.
#28
11-29-2005, 06:36 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GMPartsGuy:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
The scary duck stuff is cool but won't work with my lift. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Why not? I believe they mount to the frame rails...Is it because of the Fabtech drop member for the torsion bars? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
The cross member and the torsion bars. But I don't now the dimensions of the Rubber duck but the picture you posted looks like it would not work under here.
#29
11-29-2005, 06:40 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Leave the part that mounts to the frame and the inner rail alone. Cut the outer rail off at the horizontal mounts. Use some plate steel to extend the tabs so that the outer rail is sticking out the proper amount. Also add some extra tabs for extra support. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
That would work too, but I would have to take it off anyway and the spacers would be quick, even and easy.
I have to use one for each bolt though because the driver's side has a wire and the fuel filter box (I think).
#31
11-29-2005, 06:43 PM
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Hey, I went tanning yesterday.
#32
11-29-2005, 06:46 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Leave the part that mounts to the frame and the inner rail alone. Cut the outer rail off at the horizontal mounts. Use some plate steel to extend the tabs so that the outer rail is sticking out the proper amount. Also add some extra tabs for extra support. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That would work too, but I would have to take it off anyway and the spacers would be quick, even and easy.
I have to use one for each bolt though because the driver's side has a wire and the fuel filter box (I think). </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I am not fond of the blocks idea. Can't pinpoint why off the top of my head. Just doesn't "feel" right. 
Another idea is to cut the outer rails off from the tabs and get some custom outer rails made up by a metal shop. You could then bolt them back to the tabs using the holes the steps bolt to.
#33
11-29-2005, 06:50 PM
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You just don't like it because I came up with it.
I am just feeling things out right now. Ken was mentioning extending the plating that I want on the underside, but I'm not fond of it.
We'll see. I also want to extend them on the posterior end to the fender flare.
Right chia -
#34
11-29-2005, 06:57 PM
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Can you take some more pics of the torsion bar setup. I remember a few of Phil's, but take some from some different views to take a look at a way to protect that area.
I have something brewing in my head, besides the streptococci I am getting from Heidi, that's similar to protection on an old military vehicle. It would be like a box frame setup.
#35
11-29-2005, 07:07 PM
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Okay but don't joke my knees again.
The problem is, as Ken explained to me that anything directly under the bars would not be good because when they move down, it will bend and break them.
Anything under them too low would cancel out the lift.
#36
11-29-2005, 07:08 PM
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.
#37
11-29-2005, 07:09 PM
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..
#38
11-29-2005, 07:10 PM
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...
#39
11-29-2005, 07:14 PM
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...........
#40
11-29-2005, 07:15 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by h2co-pilot:
.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>
**coughcough**attentionwhore**coughcough**
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