My key is stuck in the ignition switch

[mountainbiker]

My key is stuck in the ignition, and it will not turn to the LOCK position.

I have been having issues with my battery, but--at this moment--the battery is allowing me to start the engine. I have heard case where a dead battery might cause this problem.

I tried following some instruction on the forum for the H2, but I cannot get it to work for my H3.

[Mark805]

I know you probably did this but:

Make sure the park lever is pushed all the way forward... I had my cell phone up there once and it messed me up.

I can vouch that a barely dead battery will keep the key. But it only happened once.

[Hmmm2]

Another one of those, "You've probably tried this already, but ...." solutions .. did you jiggle the key while making sure it's fully in? I've had a dead battery ... not barely dead, but totally dead .. and the ignition released my key. Never held it. Hating to think it could by the starter, ignition cylinder. Have you thought about spraying some powder graphite alongside the key? (Not WD-40 .. just POWDER graphite). Can you jump your battery and try to turn the key?

[mountainbiker]

Thanks Mark and Hmmm for your suggestions.

The battery still has juice to start the car, but I am guess it will be just a matter of time before it drains the battery with the key in th ACC position. I can turn the key to ACC, ON, and START, but it doesn't look like it will go to the LOCK position where it should release the key. I cannot lock the car manually because it senses the key in the ignition, so I lock it with my second key fob. Inside the car, I see the green light on the rear view mirror, the clock on the radio, and the shift position light under the P on the dash.

I tried cycling the shift lever back and forth, and I tried placing the steering wheel in different locations without success. My car only has 253 miles on it, so it still is empty of stuff and has the new car smell still. I don't want to go spraying anything yet as to not cause further complications to the matter.

I am in Europe, so my HUMMER dealer sadly isn't nearby.

I did the following steps I found in the H2 section, but they did not help (I am not sure what the "brake fuse" is, however, on my H3):

DO THESE IN ORDER TO UN STICK KEY!!!

CHECK THE BRAKE FUSE

CHARGE THE BATTERY

PUT THE EMERGENCY BRAKE ON

ROTATE THE KEY TO ACCESSORY POSISTION

CLOSE THE DOOR

ROTATE KEY TO IGNITION POSOTION

DEPRESS FOOT BRAKE

RELEASE EMERGENCY BRAKE

START VEHICLE

[marin8703]

its happened to me several times that when i disconect the battery it kept the key in the if the key was on anything other than of at the time the battery was disconnected.

try what the other have suggested.

from what i am understanding is that your battery is not dead and the car works just fine, its just that the key wont release. heres something else to think about. It might be that the shifter thing that sends the shifter position is malfunctioning. Try disconecting the battery and then reconnecting it in an attempt to "clear its head", dont know if that will work.

Also try moving the wheel, you know how it wont let you turn the key to ignition if the wheel is locked, maybe the opposite is happening to you. Dont know if the H3 locks the wheel but try.

other wise take it to dealer as soon as possible, and make sure you keep an eye on the truck when you leave it parked somewhere with the key in the ignition, otherwise its a free ride.

[marin8703]

it took me so long to write my essay , that you beat me to the posting. thast sucks that your dealer is far. try as many different and random things as possible, maybe something will work.

[mountainbiker]

Originally Posted by marin8703

from what i am understanding is that your battery is not dead and the car works just fine, its just that the key wont release. heres something else to think about. It might be that the shifter thing that sends the shifter position is malfunctioning. Try disconecting the battery and then reconnecting it in an attempt to "clear its head", dont know if that will work.

Tonight I have had the battery disconnected a few times as I am also trying to debug a battery problem. However, it would not surprise me to find out that is was the result of the battery at some stage.

Background: I had the OEM battery go bad, i.e., not accept a charge. I replaced it with a new Optima, and it was working. Next I worked on the lights to get them ready for Europe. After about 25% of the light work, I tried the battery -- it was dead. I figured it hadn't charged, it was new, I might of had something on while I was working, etc. So, I am not ready to say yet if I have a battery problem or not. Right now idle, it is reading 12V. With the engine running, it read 14.5V. Once started, I can disconnect the battery and it keeps running.

[Hmmm2]

I didn't realize that your H3 was so new! Wow ..just 253 miles on it! I know there are a few guys on here who should have some ideas for you on the problem. F5fstop, H3 Builder, ChevyHighPerformance? Hopefully they'll be looking in soon. Good luck, mountainbiker. Keep us posted, ok?

[HCUBE]

Try disconnecting the battery and see if the key turns. If not, reconnect the battery and see what happens. Worth a shot. GOOD LUCK!

[mountainbiker]

Thanks HCUBE. Tonight I have had the battery disconnected a few times--as I am also trying to debug a battery problem--but it hasn't released itself. I have emailed my stateside dealer for him to ask the service department, but he hasn't gotten back to me yet.

[lennyrebel]

A friend of mine used graphite on his ignition key and had all kinds of problems. Remember that graphite is an excellent conductor and consequently he had an engine that wouldn't stop a starter that wouldn't disengage anyways all solved with a new ignition. The rebel

[mountainbiker]

Originally Posted by lennyrebel

A friend of mine used graphite on his ignition key and had all kinds of problems.l

Roger that. I feel like I am gaining more days on my "life odometer" than my actual odometer. I am surprise no one yet has said it's a "feature" of the H3, so you don't lose your keys.

[Hmmm2]

Originally Posted by lennyrebel

A friend of mine used graphite on his ignition key and had all kinds of problems.

I'm feeling REALLY guilty about suggesting the powder graphite now. Sorry guys. I knew a couple of people who had tried that and it worked, but on vehicles other than Hummers. HOWEVER, I mentioned it before I knew that mountainbiker only had 253 miles on his H3. Forgive me, forgive me!!

[mountainbiker]

Original dealer said "It sounds like you may need a new shifter. It sounds like the vehicle may not recognize that the vehicle is in park and will not release the key."

However, as you know, I was having battery problems. When the key got stuck the battery went dead while the key was in the ignition. Keeping that in mind, look at this previous post:

Originally Posted by cmeinck

I got in the truck today to move it and the lights were dim. Figured if I could start it, I'd be able to recharge the battery (no idea why it drained). No iPod, no TV's on. Key is stuck. Truck is dead. I'm getting tired of this crap. Calling for a tow tomorrow and will ask them not to jump it so maybe the dealer can figure out what's happening. BTW, this is the 2nd battery.

Source: http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/s...3&postcount=45

I am wondering if my battery problem caused the key stuck problem???

[mountainbiker]

Today was not fun I have to admit defeat. My battery was dead once again. My key remains stuck in the ignition switch. I do have a dealer service appointment tomorrow (Thu). I cannot say I am looking forward to the 3-hour drive (unless they fix it all within the day). The work--even if warranty related--will not automatically be submitted to HUMMER. I must take the invoice and submit it myself for possible reimbursement. It has me very nervous. Have any of you submitted a warranty claim personally?

[Hmmm2]

Keeping positive thoughts that your 3 hour drive in each direction was not in vain. Let us know what the verdict was on your stuck key when you have a chance.

[BlueHUMMERH2]

Nope, never had to personally submit a warranty claim. Good luck though. I imagine the miles are worse than the time when its comes to buying litres of fuel in Europe.

[mountainbiker]

Well everyone--the short answer--everything is fixed.

I left yesterday at 0130 and returned home at 2130. The drive was approximately 4 hours each way, and about an hour break each way. The rest was them working on the car. In the late afternoon they put 3 people on it, so I would not have to get a hotel for the evening.

It was a botched electrical job by the guy who did the work for the European light conversion. The cause of the problems were rooted with cutting connections going to the BCM, wire taps, and blown fuses.

Final bill (out of my pocket): $1700 + $300 (for the first botched job) + $200 (for the battery which it did need)

[Hmmm2]

Wow ... no one even thought of the European light conversions!!! He must have really done some job to cause your problems!! Is that guy in Germany? Can you locate him and present him with the repair bill? So sorry to hear all you had to go through, mountainclimber. What a tough initiation. I hope you have nothing but enjoyment now out of your new H3!