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Go Back   Hummer Forums by Elcova > Hummer H2 Discussion Forums > General H2 Discussion

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  #1  
Old 05-01-2006, 12:51 AM
mossinc mossinc is offline
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I have 42000 miles on my 05 H2. I noticed some slop in the front end and figured it was my tie rods again. So the tie rods are good and the local wrench figurs its my steering box. If so, anyone know what the fix is and how much its going to cost, any chance of some kind of adjustment ? Has this been a on going problem or am I just the lucky one ?
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  #2  
Old 05-01-2006, 01:22 AM
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also check out idler arm and pitman arm.

There is also an intermediate shaft (not sure if that's the correct term i used) that was replace on two of my last rigs.
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Old 05-01-2006, 01:42 AM
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Thanks for the reply but they where done with the tie rods at 34800 miles and I was told by the dealer they are still good when I had it in for the steering pump cooler lines a few weeks ago. The strange thing is the slack went away when they did the cooler lines only to return a week later.When I stopped in the sevice mgr said there is no conection with the cooler lines and it was probly the steering box.I just have not made a time to bring it back yet and thought I would see what I could find out ahead of time.
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Old 05-01-2006, 09:23 PM
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The odds of you finding someone who can actually rebuild/reseal a steering gearbox and reset the pinion depth are pretty slim. Do a lot of inquiring before you let somebody go into it-you could end up a whole lot worse off.
Just a thought--have you had the alignment checked?? Too little caster will give you almost no steer-ahead and make the truck 'wander' on the road.
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Old 05-02-2006, 07:39 PM
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The main problem is you can feel a jigle in the steering when ever there is tension on the wheel(like going around a corner while hitting a bump). I had this same problem 8000 miles ago and they replaced the tie rods,pitmin arm, and idler arm along with an alignment witch fixed the problem.The problem returned so when I had her in last, for the oil line fitting I said check her out. The dealer "says the tie rods and such are tight but it looks like the steering box has some play in it and to drop it off another day to test it". I dont think they know what the hell at this point.
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  #6  
Old 05-02-2006, 07:50 PM
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Sounds like the idler arm is bone dry, mine felt loose and jiggly on little road bumps too. Got 90 degree zerk fitting for my grease gun and greased the shait out of it and it has felt solid ever since.
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Old 05-02-2006, 09:42 PM
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Pretty easy to diagnose with a friend. Get it crank it up, cut the wheels to the DS and get someone to look at the Pitman arm as you move the steering wheel back and forth a little amongst the slack. Switch places and see if you can figure out if it's above the Pitman or at where the Pitman attaches to the Centerlink.

You might not be able to see it well due to the Pitman being full to the PS side so you might have to put the steering somewhere in between full lock DS and straight.
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  #8  
Old 05-03-2006, 06:36 PM
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I will try both as long as I am under there, I was trying to avoid working on this thing but you know the saying. If ya want a job done right- bla bla bla Thanks for the input guys.
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  #9  
Old 05-03-2006, 08:18 PM
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Definately sound like your intermediate shaft needs to be greased. This is a very common problem on all GM vehicles, the grease breaks down on the shaft splines and creates play- it feels like a knock in the wheel while turning and hitting bumps. GM has a new grease out and your dealer should have it in stock- warranty pays .4 to grease it cash time they will probably charge you an hour. Definately try this before throwing your money at the steering box.
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  #10  
Old 05-03-2006, 09:51 PM
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I agree that it sounds like an intermediate steering shaft, had similar sensations in both my avalanches and when they replaced them, it went away. Also had that trouble in my silverados.
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  #11  
Old 05-03-2006, 10:30 PM
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X3 heres the bulletin
Subject: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in the Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Lubricate Intermediate Steering Shaft Assemby) #00-02-35-003J - (01/30/2006)



Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models

1999-2006 Chevrolet Silverado Models

2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models

2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche

1999-2006 GMC Sierra Models

2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models

2003-2006 HUMMER H2



Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Based on recent Engineering validation testing, it has now been determined that either grease ( Molycote Grease (dark color) or NYE Grease (yellowish color )) can be used on all vehicles noted in this bulletin. Either grease will provide a significantly longer interval than replacing the I-shaft itself. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003I (Section 02 -- Steering).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Notice: To properly grease the splines, the I-shaft MUST be removed from the vehicle. Failure to do so will result in a repeat repair and a dissatisfied customer.

Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.

• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information refer to Corporate Bulletin # 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation)

• Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.

Correction
DO THIS
DON'T DO THIS

Lubricate the intermediate shaft using P/N 26098419.
DO NOT REPLACE the following intermediate shaft P/N's:

P/N 88965505

P/N 89060582

P/N 19149105


Notice: To properly grease the splines, the I-shaft MUST be removed from the vehicle. Failure to do so will result in a repeat repair and a dissatisfied customer.

Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419. Follow the service procedure below. Failure to follow each step as it is outlined below may result in a repeat repair.

Set the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Notice: On 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 Steering Column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing these steering columns. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.

Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior vehicles.
Remove the upper intermediate shaft from the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement - Upper in the appropriate SI Document.



Remove the spacer clip from the end of the intermediate shaft with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Fully extend the shaft by pulling the two shafts apart.



Apply the syringe of grease supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419, into the open end of the shaft. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the shaft and dispense the full content of the syringe.



Insert the plug supplied in the Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit into the open end of the shaft and finger tighten the wing nut.



Place the plugged end of the shaft on a hard surface and apply pressure to collapse the shaft and dissipate the grease through the shaft.
Remove the plug from the shaft and fully extend the shaft.



Inspect the shaft for a minimum of 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease on the shaft splines.
Repeat steps 11-14 if less than 13 mm (1/2 in) of grease is on shaft splines.
Clean the excess grease off of the shaft splines and around the shaft opening.



Carefully spread apart the spacer clip with a pair of pliers.



Reinstall the spacer clip into the open end of the shaft.



Align the spacer clip with the stakes in the shaft.
Reinstall the upper intermediate steering shaft. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement - Upper in the appropriate SI Document.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
Qty

26098419
Lubrication Kit, Steering Column Intermediate Shaft
1


Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time

E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate - R&R
Use Current Published Labor Time

Add
Lubricate Steering Shaft
0.2 hr




GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved
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  #12  
Old 05-12-2006, 10:16 PM
JMVH2 JMVH2 is offline
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Default Re: Help with steering box ?

Mine was replaced at 35000! glad was under warranty!
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  #13  
Old 05-16-2006, 08:49 PM
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Default Re: Help with steering box ?

I had the same problem in my steering coloumn. I recently had my rig go in for it's 50,000 checkup and had the coloumn replaced, I was told that the steering arm is self lubricating and warranty covered the replacement.
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