EVAP Canister

[drmiles]

Keep having to replace my Evap Canister and purge valve due to mud @ local walmart.;)

Anyone have a fix for this problem. Yes I know I should avoid deep mud holes, but my steering box heads for the deepest spot everytime:rolleyes:

[drmiles]

Like this:D

[RIC-H0]

Like this:D
Don't replace it, just clean it out really well!

[drmiles]

I was told it could not be cleaned out?
Just hook up the water hose and flush?

[RIC-H0]

I was told it could not be cleaned out?
Just hook up the water hose and flush?
Jus go to the carwash and spray the crap out of it. Don't disconnect anything when you are doing this. Then when you get home inspect for any residual crap left over. Worked for me for quite a while.
Ric

[H2 Ranger]

Try RELOCATING it to another location higher up on the truck. I think it might help you.

[Racer-X]

I've clogged mine with mud twice. Not covered by warranty. I started a thread asking if anybody had relocated but no replies. Looking at it, it seems you would have to replace a lot of hoses.

[RIC-H0]

It's a bunch of crap that they won't warranty that part. It's a bad design to have it there, but it must remain outside of the vehicle.
I had mine cleaned out at the dealership several times, and then they said they will no longer warranty this issue, because it's my fault that mud gets in there! I said...You mean it's my fault that I use the vehicle for what it's made for!??
I spoke with a few of the mechanics, and they recommended building some kinda shield for it, but after lots of staring, and head scratching, I couldn't come up with a simple design. The easiest way, I think, would to place some kind of disposable storage container around it while you're wheeling, then take it off when you're done!!!

Good luck!

Ric

[drmiles]

I think moving it is the answer.
The Canister looks tightly sealed water must enter through the purge valve. I think I can move the purge valve and leave the canister in place. One big hose to run. I wonder if the purge valve has an intake opening, that a hose could be attached and run up higher? If not then I think I can move the valve behind the black vent on the back of the tailgate. I'm going to solve this problem this weekend (i hope) Let you know what happens.:confused:

[Longhorn]

I've had this same warning on my truck more times than I can remember. I made several trips to the dealer early on and got the same genius advice.:rolleyes:

Now, I just check the trouble code with my Predator Programmer and then cancel it out. This will make the check engine light go out and usually "fix" the problem for a few weeks.

[HUMTECH]

Just A thought, EVAP codes turn on your light, expensive to fix, hard to relocate, Am I on the right track? EVAP codes cause no drivability problems they are strictly for emissions laws. Buy A cheap OBD2 code reader and verify light is on due to evap codes and don't worry about it until you would require an inspection or air care inspection. When inspection is required tell the shop you can't leave the truck but require it back right away as you are going out of town and you would prefer if you drove it in the shop yourself(you dont trust anyone driving your baby). Before you shut it off be prepared to clear the codes and it would require 2 ignition cycles to turn on the light again and run the diagnostic self test to reset the code and illuminate the ses light. Pain in the a$$ but cheaper than the repairs every time your EVAP system plugs up.

[drmiles]

Ok, but due to my OCD I am unable to just look at the stupid light.
I looked last night, seems easy to move. the hoses have some type of clamp I don't know how to open. I'll Just cut them loose and pull out the valve. Once I get it out in the open then I'll figure out the clamp. Will need to add a longer hose anyway. One hose and of course sensor wires to reroute. Great weekend project.:confused:

[RIC-H0]

Ok, but due to my OCD I am unable to just look at the stupid light.
I looked last night, seems easy to move. the hoses have some type of clamp I don't know how to open. I'll Just cut them loose and pull out the valve. Once I get it out in the open then I'll figure out the clamp. Will need to add a longer hose anyway. One hose and of course sensor wires to reroute. Great weekend project.:confused:
Relocation is the best way, but where are you gonna move it?:confused:
Can't move it inside the vehicle, can't place it near any heat. If you move it to the rear, it's possible to get filled full of crap sooner. Maybe inside the rear bumper, with breather lines coming out the side?:confused:

[drmiles]

Here's the plan. Looked behind the tail lite and black vent cover above that. There's room to put the valve behind the black vent. Will need to drill a hole for the hose to enter behind the tail lite. Still need to know how to get the hose clamps loose without breaking them?

[H2 Ranger]

pressue clamps, I just remove them and go to the local parts store they sell replacement clamps, all sizes. Sounds like your on the way to resolve it now! ;)