Newbie with tech questions. HELP please

[Prince50]

Just bought my first H1. 1995 4 door pickup 6.5 non TD with 67K miles now.

Bought it last month with 64K but drove it home and have been driving it since.

Anyway, to my questions.

1. When driving at specific speeds, the oil pressure drops to 10 PSI. If I adjust the speed to 62 instead of 65, it returns to 30 PSI. What gives?

2. every once in awhile a pump sound like the CTIS pump starts inside the dog house just behind the AC controlls or radio. It does not matter if the AC is running or not, it just does it. It will run for 4 minutes or less then stop. What is this?

3. Occasionaly, and more often in the last few days, there is a burp sound from the passanger side dash area. It seems to do it at random, and does not care if the AC is running or not. Just a short BUURRP!

4. AC seems to drip all its condensed water into the cab by the passanger foot area. Normal? AC blows cold, so it works just fine, and the drain plug lets it all out. Should I be doing something about this?

5. I have a stud in the split rim that has popped. I cannot even bang the broken stud out with hammer and chisel. Am I doing somthing wrong? I have the replacement, with nut, and penta head socket to reinstall, but am stuck at this point.

Thanks in advance guys.

Darin

[hmcoleap]

Welcome aboard, congrats on the purchase.

1. Some fluctuation in pressure is normal, but that sounds like more than normal... how are your RPM's at each of the speeds mentioned? Those pressures sound low. Could be just an issue with the oil pressure sender unit, but you should check your oil level and quality, and watch your engine temps as well.

2. This sounds like the lift pump - it right on the driver's side firewall, and it pulls fuel up to the area of the filter housing. It will start up right away when you are starting the truck, and often it will run for a few seconds after you shut the truck off (while your oil pressure is still up)

3. Do you have the upgraded HVAC system? Sounds like you may have some air trapped in your heater core somewhere.

4. Remove the access panel at the footwell of the passenger front seat, and check the short hose that runs from the bottom of the blower motor - if it is detached, it will dump moisture on the floor. Some people leave this detached on purpose, because water can build up in the blower motor if the hose gets plugged at all, causing premature failures of the blower motor.

5. Work harder to drive that bolt out with a hammer and a punch of some kind. Tried an air hammer on it yet?

-Manny

Just bought my first H1. 1995 4 door pickup 6.5 non TD with 67K miles now.

Bought it last month with 64K but drove it home and have been driving it since.

Anyway, to my questions.

1. When driving at specific speeds, the oil pressure drops to 10 PSI. If I adjust the speed to 62 instead of 65, it returns to 30 PSI. What gives?

2. every once in awhile a pump sound like the CTIS pump starts inside the dog house just behind the AC controlls or radio. It does not matter if the AC is running or not, it just does it. It will run for 4 minutes or less then stop. What is this?

3. Occasionaly, and more often in the last few days, there is a burp sound from the passanger side dash area. It seems to do it at random, and does not care if the AC is running or not. Just a short BUURRP!

4. AC seems to drip all its condensed water into the cab by the passanger foot area. Normal? AC blows cold, so it works just fine, and the drain plug lets it all out. Should I be doing something about this?

5. I have a stud in the split rim that has popped. I cannot even bang the broken stud out with hammer and chisel. Am I doing somthing wrong? I have the replacement, with nut, and penta head socket to reinstall, but am stuck at this point.

Thanks in advance guys.

Darin

[Prince50]

Manny,

Thanks for the info.

Working backwards.

Air hammer will be next. I'm going to try to drill out the center and use a round punch in the divot I make. I think the chisel is spreading the stud and creating a rivet condition.

I will check the hose issue. I think that might solve the water issue. Since the body is aluminum it is not a great concern, but I will re-attach the hose if it has come undone.

I am not sure about the AC upgrade, pehaps you can tell me how to check.
The BUURRP was from the radiator overflow resevior cap being loose. It was on the first lock, but not the second. As the motor would heat up, it would push on the cap and release air. I uncapped it and about 2 gallons of anti-freeze (And some rust colored stuff too!) came out. I replaced the fluid, and it is running great with no BUURPP anymore.

Lift pump sounds about right, and it is just every once in awhile. Thanks.

I will check or replace the oil pressure sender. I felt that it might be faulty right from the start. I picked this up in Oxford, MS. I drove it 2,000 miles in the first 2.5 days without trouble. Brave? Stupid? Maybe both. The oil guage was like that right out of the gate. I drove home at 62 MPH just to be sure.

Gawd this thing is cool!

Thanks for the welcome.

Darin Prince

[hmcoleap]

One of the easier ways to see if you have the HVAC upgrade (though not foolproof) is by looking at the heater/AC controls on the dash... if they are the dial type GM looking ones with red and blue transition coloring around the outside, then you probably have an upgraded HVAC. If they are the digital LED readout type with a picture of a dude sitting in a chair on it, then you probably have the old original HVAC system (and brace yourself for future heater core failure and the expensive repair bills that accompany it!)

Once in a while, someone will have done their own upgrade, and you will see the original control panel on the upgraded system... but that is rare.

Manny,

Thanks for the info.

Working backwards.

Air hammer will be next. I'm going to try to drill out the center and use a round punch in the divot I make. I think the chisel is spreading the stud and creating a rivet condition.

I will check the hose issue. I think that might solve the water issue. Since the body is aluminum it is not a great concern, but I will re-attach the hose if it has come undone.

I am not sure about the AC upgrade, pehaps you can tell me how to check.
The BUURRP was from the radiator overflow resevior cap being loose. It was on the first lock, but not the second. As the motor would heat up, it would push on the cap and release air. I uncapped it and about 2 gallons of anti-freeze (And some rust colored stuff too!) came out. I replaced the fluid, and it is running great with no BUURPP anymore.

Lift pump sounds about right, and it is just every once in awhile. Thanks.

I will check or replace the oil pressure sender. I felt that it might be faulty right from the start. I picked this up in Oxford, MS. I drove it 2,000 miles in the first 2.5 days without trouble. Brave? Stupid? Maybe both. The oil guage was like that right out of the gate. I drove home at 62 MPH just to be sure.

Gawd this thing is cool!

Thanks for the welcome.

Darin Prince

[Prince50]

Great! I've got the dude in the chair with the digital display.

Darn it!

Oh yeah this is So Cal, San Diego. Who needs AC? Oh yeah me.

Thanks,

Darin

[Ground hawg]

have a look at flash off-road hummer. theres an article about somebody who installed an aftermarket for a toyota in his hummer for about $350. that's cheaper than a new heater core for the H1