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View Full Version : buying a 1996 H1


twinturbo3150
01-13-2006, 08:24 PM
Hello everyone I am new to the Hummer H1 world and that is why I am here. Just test drove a 96 H1 with 55,000 miles, and here is my concern when applying the brake and I come to a complete stop the H1 actuall rocks back and forth 3 to 4 time, not side to side but back and forth and it did it every time I came to a stop. I even mentioned it to the dealer and the salesman even noticed it but didnt now what it was. His solution was that it was because of the full tanks? I hope someone knows what I am talking about, and can comment on the sitiuation.

twinturbo3150
01-13-2006, 08:36 PM
Here is a little more into its a 96 turbo diesel 4dr hardtop, with the little pickup bed in the rear, also has the winch up front, and safari rack on top, also has ctis and after market rims. and the price is 30,000 color is red, power door and windows, ac etc, etc, I would have bought it right on the spot but the rocking back and forth after coming to a complet stops worries me. any into is greately appreciated, and also is this a good price or to high?

Ground hawg
01-13-2006, 11:28 PM
This Is quite normal for any hummer prior to 2003( i thinkyears correct). partly to do with suspension setup but also becouse the gearing in the offset hubs being straight, i think it was afret 2003 the started to use conical gearing wich helped but not entirely. The shocks on the older hummers arnt that great either.

grnd hwg

Ground hawg
01-13-2006, 11:36 PM
I think the price is fair, if you can chech the ball joints and tie rod ends, these seam to be some of the first things to go. dont worry about them too much. iff they are on the loose side you can get good replacement parts from BLUE outfit hummers and fit them yourself in a couple of hours (all joints upper and lowwer about $100.00 per corner, tierods a little bit mor each but you only need 6 total . Persolaly I think half the fun of having a H1 is working on it. (pluss im a tight arsed basterd)

grnd hwg

twinturbo3150
01-13-2006, 11:43 PM
I also read a post about the turbo diesel getting got and the #8 cylinder going out, does that mean I have to replace the engine or just the number #piston. and what do u do to prevent the problem in the first place.

twinturbo3150
01-13-2006, 11:54 PM
I just read a post and I couldnt believe it, are filers really 400.00 big ones

Ground hawg
01-14-2006, 12:10 AM
The #8 bloch is prone to crack on some of the turbo diesels most between 97 and 99. as far as i know there is nothing you can do to tell if your block will crack or not, but you can help by getting the kit that opens up the rear of the water jacket and helps with the coolant flow around the rear of the engine this kit is about $350 if you get it on-line some where. or you can go to tour local DIY (lowe's, builders sqare or what ever) and put a system together your self for about $10. this may or may not help. I've just cracked my block about 2-3 weeks ago and i alread had the mod.

What do you mean by filers????

twinturbo3150
01-14-2006, 12:21 AM
gound hawg just wanted to say thank you for providing me the webpage about hummers and there potential problems.

twinturbo3150
01-14-2006, 12:22 AM
ooops I meant filters, air I think

Ground hawg
01-14-2006, 12:32 AM
No way, I swaped to the K&N for about $100, oil are about $15 and i think the fuel is around $17. some people dont recomend the K&N for the air though.

grnd hwg

RonB
01-14-2006, 11:33 AM
The salesman is a knucklehead. The rocking back and forth is normal for ALL H1's (yes, even Alphas do it). The brakes are in-board, not on the wheels as in most vehicles, so you will have some flex in the half-shafts -- but the main reason is a bit of back-lash in the geared hubs. Do not fear, it's perfectly normal.

You need to go to Chuck Copelson's excellent site at http://www.flashoffroad.com. There you will find answers to all your questions including year-to-year comparisons and what to watch out for when buying a used hummer.

As far as the #8 problem, any 6.5 turbo diesel from '96 to 99 (I've heard of some 2000's too) can be at risk. Poor coolant and air circulation + hot engine + bad cast = $$$. My '97 blew at 9500 miles! Labor + engine will run you between $10k and $14k. There are several cooling kits available to reduce the chances of cracking the block -- Chuck talks about them on his site and he sells one too.

http://www.bluehummer.com is also a great resource for info and parts. Where are you located?

good luck...study up before getting screwed by a bonehead dealer!

Ron B

twinturbo3150
01-14-2006, 07:03 PM
I am located in salt lake city utah, and I have decided notto buy the 96 H1, I have decided to buy a 03,04,or and 05, I want to completely emiminate the #8 cylinder issue and have the benefits of lockers and so forth. buyine the 96 for 30,000 seams like a good deal but then spending 14,000 on a new engine wouldn't be worth it in my eyes.

Ground hawg
01-14-2006, 07:28 PM
I got mt new engine for $5,000 including delivery and core charge, so if you dont mind doin the work your self it isnt too bad

grnd hwg

ssgharkness020147
01-14-2006, 09:03 PM
The 400.00 air filters are for the GAS HUMMER, not the diesel. An air filter for a diesel HUMMER is about 60.00 at the dealer. As for the K&N filter if you buy a turbo diesel engine I would stay away from it, the K&N filter tends to allow tiny dirt particels in the engine that will damage it.

NoMoGMPG
01-15-2006, 05:15 PM
30K for a '96 is pretty good. Depending on the shape of the tires, steering. and suspension. If the engine hasn't popped beyond 50K, it is not considered to be an "at risk" engine, but a possible. I have 98K on mine and (knock on wood) it runs strong.I put the cooling kit on just in case. I do all my own work, but if you do buy a 2003-5 make sureyou spring for a GOOD warranty, like GMPP, if you don't possess good mechanic skills. Servicing at a dealer is expensive, at least learn how to do low level mainainence, you'll save thousands.

Change the oil regulary, no more than than 3K between. Change the coolant and thermostats every 2 years. Change gear oil every 3 oil changes, trans service every 15K unless offroaded hard, then 7-10K. Fuel filter every other oil change. Oh yeah, grease zerk fittings...every month with no offroading, and EVERY time you go offroading, there are 26 greasing points.

Have fun!

twinturbo3150
01-15-2006, 05:26 PM
why is the maintenace schedule so intensive, I have a ford F350 turbo diesel and the maintenance schedule is not that intensive, I change the oil every 3000 like clock work with the air filter if it needs it, and that all.

Ground hawg
01-15-2006, 05:40 PM
It's cheaper to do the intensive maintanance than replace the parts cos you didn't.