Chassis Lube Points

[H2bill]

Does anyone have the diagram of the lube points for the H2? I had a copy Phil sent me a year or so ago and for the life of me I can't locate it.

Thanks anyone.

[Easy Ed]

This pic may help, Ed

[IRA51]

hey mine don't have red Zerk's,must be a special edition .

[Easy Ed]

$1015.00 option. Was worth it too, after all the years and miles the paint is still there ;)

Easy Ed

[H2bill]

This pic may help, Ed

Thanks. I only counted 10 when I did it so I must of missed one. :crying:

[Hucky]

I count 12 ?

[IVANHUMMER]

HEY GUYS NEW IN THE FORUMS, HI TO EVERYONE...... AND THANKS FOR THE GREAT LUBE POINTS DIAGRAM

[Easy Ed]

Hucky, The last pic (12th) is of the oil filter and oil pan drain location.

IVANHUMMER, Welcome to the site.

[jmsspratlin]

Thanks Ed for the easy-to-follow diagram. Helps out a-lot!

[Easy Ed]

jmsspratlin, No problem. I don't get to contribute much to the site so when I see a chance to help I do.

Having a 2003 with 70,000 miles on it you could say I have got to know it pretty well. Seems like any time I work on it I have the camera handy.

Just did a lube, oil change and tire rotation for the umteenth time and as usual I removed the skid plate to make it easier for me and this time I found the head of a bolt laying on the skid plate.

Turns out one of the drivers side exhaust manifold bolts had the head break off. Going to fix it a soon as I can cause from what I understand the exhaust leak can cause the up stream O2 sensor to get a false reading from the exhaust leaking out the manifold and not passing the sensor. Well it does make sense to me :D

Later, Ed

[IVANHUMMER]

Thanks Ed, i saw your pics I have the same problem a broken bolt at the same location on my 03 H2 but so far no problems passed emissions check every year and no check engine light ever.

[Easy Ed]

Thanks IVANHUMMER. Being as anal (OCD) as I am when things are broke I will someday tackle fixing it, got another project to finish first.

Playing with a 1995 Neon. Read that to mean therapy after work and weekends. Got it for the 38 mpg fuel mileage for the 60 miles a day drive for work. Got a ways to go yet, I rebuilt the 2.0 liter motor, five speed transaxle, been to the local junk yard so much they just let me "go shopping" for the parts I need, fenders, doors, trunk lids, speakers and so on. Interior has been removed and parts fixed that needed it and then everything put back in. Next project on it is to replace all the rusted brake lines, put the motor and transaxle in and hope it all works.

Later, Easy Ed

[jmsspratlin]

Wow Ed, nice job on the block! Did you have that done or did you do it yourself?

[Easy Ed]

All by myself, it is my anger management program at the end of the day, well along with the meds :)

All parts are stock but it has a reground and indexed crank, new pistons and rings, main and connecting rod bearings, head bolts, valves and seats ground (had that done), water pump, timing belt, the cam and rockers came out of a refurbished head, oil is pump rebuilt, new oil pan, all new gaskets and seals, we even milled block deck at work to get rid of pitting and to assure a good head gasket seal. Did it by attaching the block to a part we was running on the boring mill, plant manager didn't know the difference, thought we was milling the plate that was mounted on the mill. :giggling: Also, the transaxle also has new bearings and seals that I put in for good measure.

Attached is what the inside looked like before and after. Had to work on the AC and heater core. Got to remove everything dash related to get the heater box out. Figured while I was at it might as well pull everthing out which was a good thing. Was a hole in the drivers side floor board. With the help from my daughter who works at Baja Boats she was able to fiberglass it in and put carbon fiber over it. Hell, I even got all new suspension bushings, tie rods and ball joints to install yet. The brake lines got to come first though so I can put the motor and transaxle in. (need the room in the garage)

It will be spring by the time I am done with it cause the junkyard gets a little cold during the Ohio winters and there are a few parts needed yet.

My son is waiting for me to get done with it so we can fix his SRT 4 (another Neon). There is a problem with the 2nd to 3rd shift, I think it is a bent shifting fork. He plans on using a "winter car" so we may throw moms car outta the garage and go ahead on his :)

Later, Easy Ed

[Easy Ed]

jmsspratlin, If your interested in the rest the whole project is posted here http://forums.neons.org/viewtopic.php?t=311817

Later, Easy Ed

[finall]

So how many lube points are there on an H2? Still waiting for an answer. 10 or 11? I can only count 10, but photo shows 11?

Who knows for sure?

[tomp]

There are 12 if you count the rear spare tire carrier

-rear tire carrier
-2 on upper control arms
-2 on lower control arms
-1 on Idler Pivot assembly
-1 on Idler Arm
-1 on Pitman Arm
-2 on tie rod outers
-2 on tie rod inners

Mine has two additional on the rear Edelbrock Panhard Rod and then 4 more on my Cognito Upper Control arm bushings. However, I have the uniball upper control arms which eliminates the upper ball joints so that deducts 2. Also, my Cognito Idler pivot assembly does not have one either. Total: I have 15

[finall]

Tomp:

Excellent! Thanks for the detailed info. Ok, I definitely missed one on the last lube. Good to know....

[miller529]

Wow! I spend a few minutes under my 05 H2 last night and only found 6 lube points, that didn't seem like enough so I did a Google search and found this thread. Thanks for the detailed info-very helpful! After reading this,I'm a little disappointed in myself for not finding more,,,lol

Paul

[kalantar]

So you have to remove the skid plate to get to all of these?
How much of PIA is it to get to these do you have to take off the tires?

[finall]

You do have to remove the skid plate.

You do not have to remove the tires. You will need to turn them one way and then the other to get at the lower ball joints on either side.

[kalantar]

Thanks, should we take this to any lube place to do this and what do they generally charge?

[finall]

They will charge you extra for the skid plate removal, and yes, any place can do it. Use synthetic grease for better life.

There is one zerk that is really hidden, (I think that one may be called the pitman or idler arm pivot), and invisible from underneath, and super hard to see from the engine bay. You can feel it from underneath. It is recessed in some metal.

Mine had a straight zerk, and I could not put a grease gun on it. An hour later, I managed by feel to thread out the old zerk and install a 90 degree zerk, so that I could lube the stupidly designed lube point.

[glennf1]

I did all but the Idler Arm pivot (10 total) in my driveway without removing anything with a standard grease gun. As someone mentioned you need to install a 90deg. fitting on it to grease it. Stupid design.

[glennf1]

jmsspratlin, No problem. I don't get to contribute much to the site so when I see a chance to help I do.

Having a 2003 with 70,000 miles on it you could say I have got to know it pretty well. Seems like any time I work on it I have the camera handy.

Just did a lube, oil change and tire rotation for the umteenth time and as usual I removed the skid plate to make it easier for me and this time I found the head of a bolt laying on the skid plate.

Turns out one of the drivers side exhaust manifold bolts had the head break off. Going to fix it a soon as I can cause from what I understand the exhaust leak can cause the up stream O2 sensor to get a false reading from the exhaust leaking out the manifold and not passing the sensor. Well it does make sense to me :D

Later, Ed

I recently had a shop replace all of my exhaust header bolts. GM has newer replacement ones that are stronger and the bolt head is a little bigger. The broken ones came out with a stud remover and PB Blaster, so we got lucky we didn't have to drill any out.

[glennf1]

Reviving this old thread. Years later I finally put in the 90deg. zerk into the idler arm pivot. It's 1/4-28 taper 90deg. stainless steel zerk. It's only a few bucks. You can see it through the front passenger tow hook hole. Take off the skid plate and take it off w/ an open end wrench (I think it was 5/16"...) and put in the new one.
I also bought rubber caps to put on all 11 to keep the crud out of all them.