Water Wetter

[Alex13188]

Just curious if anyone has used water wetter in their h2 to bring the temps down. I have used it in other cars with great results and was just curious if it is safe to use in my h2. My temps are running a little higher then normal and i was hoping this would help.

[Motohead]

I have only used it in my trackbike. I wouldn't suggest replacing the antifreeze with it, but maybe adding it to the antifreeze.

[tomp]

How much of a difference does it make Alex?

[Alex13188]

I dont know how much difference it would make in an h2 but in the past i have seen it lower temps by as much as 15 degrees.

[PARAGON]

first, check with someone. For some reason I have it stuck in my head that you can't add water to dexcool or whatever the hell is in our systems.

maybe it's in the manual:eek:

[Alex13188]

Its not acctually water its a coolant additive, the company says you can add it to anything but i figured i would check here first.

[PARAGON]

Its not acctually water its a coolant additive, the company says you can add it to anything but i figured i would check here first.I realize that, but whatever is in there now, supposedly doesn't like water and if something doesn't like water, there's a good chance it won't like something benign to water.

But, I bet you can google the stuff and find out if it is compatible.

[PARAGON]

did a quick search and it has it's naysayers but I read nothing that said it couldn't be mixed.

Said to just pour it into the reservoir

[usetosellhummer]

I think Gm lost a lawsuit on the dexcool. But yes should check before it goes black and stops working

[tomp]

Contact Redline oil company as they are the ones who make it.

[tomp]

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

[Alex13188]

hey i have read the website im gonna go ahead and try it and i will post the results.

[f5fstop]

You can add water to dex-cool, so long as you keep a 50/50 mixture. Same as any type of anti-freeze, you can purchase the straight dex-cool, then mix with water for a 50/50 mixture. However, they do sell gallons of pre-mixed dex-cool/water.
I tried this stuff in my Vette, and maybe noticed a five degree temp decrease, but nothing I could every verify. Didn't do any controlled tests, just calculated a five degree drop due to normal driving habits and temps.

[Beastmaster]

You will only see a very marginal difference in using a 50/50 DexCool/Water combination and Water Wetter.

In Arizona, I now use a 30/70 DexCool/Water mixture on my wife's H3 with Water Wetter (since I've had the temp issues with it), and I have seen a rough 10 degree difference. This is due to the fact that Water is a far better conductor of heat than coolant.

Of course, I also rarely see anything hit 0 degrees F here in Arizona either, so running a 30/70 mixture works fine.

In my H1, I use Shell Rotella ELC, which is a diesel based DexCool variant. I've seen an actual drop in operating temps doing a 30/70 water/DexCool mixture with the diesel specific Water Wetter.

In the peak of summertime, I would consistently get temps up to 230 degrees F with a 50/50 mix and running 65+MPH. Going to a 30/70 mix with Water Wetter gave me a drop down to 215 at most (normal operating temp is generally 195 to 200 degrees under normal outside temps) running at a consistent speed of 65+MPH.

So it does and will work with Dexcool. You just have to run a different water dilution mix though for optimum results.

[PARAGON]

You will only see a very marginal difference in using a 50/50 DexCool/Water combination and Water Wetter.

In Arizona, I now use a 30/70 DexCool/Water mixture on my wife's H3 with Water Wetter (since I've had the temp issues with it), and I have seen a rough 10 degree difference. This is due to the fact that Water is a far better conductor of heat than coolant.

Of course, I also rarely see anything hit 0 degrees F here in Arizona either, so running a 30/70 mixture works fine.

In my H1, I use Shell Rotella ELC, which is a diesel based DexCool variant. I've seen an actual drop in operating temps doing a 30/70 water/DexCool mixture with the diesel specific Water Wetter.

In the peak of summertime, I would consistently get temps up to 230 degrees F with a 50/50 mix and running 65+MPH. Going to a 30/70 mix with Water Wetter gave me a drop down to 215 at most (normal operating temp is generally 195 to 200 degrees under normal outside temps) running at a consistent speed of 65+MPH.

So it does and will work with Dexcool. You just have to run a different water dilution mix though for optimum results.Hmmph..... I though about your cooling problem and had an idea.... some time in the past week or so, but I forgot what it was. It had to do with one of my tractors, I think and I also thought about PhilD's situation.

Did you get your H3 straightened out?

[Beastmaster]

Hmmph..... I though about your cooling problem and had an idea.... some time in the past week or so, but I forgot what it was. It had to do with one of my tractors, I think and I also thought about PhilD's situation.

Did you get your H3 straightened out?

So far, the coolant mix ratio seems to have been the best solution so far. Of course, I have it marked on the expansion tank with a sticker showing the solution ratio as well.

My wife hasn't seen any issues with the new mixture either, and she says it's more comforting for her to see the temp gauge in a normal position.

Of course, going to anything below zero degrees is out of the question, but it's not likely I'll have that problem anyways considering where we live.

[tomp]

Your thermostat is ultimately going to determine the temps.

[PARAGON]

Your thermostat is ultimately going to determine the temps.well, that's not true. the t-stat just opens at a certain temperature to flow the coolant. Cooling efficiency, air temp, humidity, engine efficiency, vehicle load, air flow, etc. will all ultimately determine the temps.

In Phoenix, he could effectively get away with no tstat in his system if it was running hot like he had mentioned before.

[Fastest H-Town Realtor]

Your thermostat is ultimately going to determine the temps.


Dude-Seriously...Understand what something does before you speak about it. The T-Stat controls the operating temperature up to its opening specifications. After that, the most a stat can do is limit flow of water. To a fault if its of poor design. On some systems the stat will slow water down to aid in the transfer of heat from the engine. Pass water to quick and the heat never leaves the metal to the water.

[Mr. I - Man]

Mr. Tom Patterson

='s

Automotive Mongoloid:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

[tomp]

While you guys are right if there are overheating problems, this is not the case for my rig which operates right around 195 degrees F and I am in Texas heat.

(I have tires same as stock etc...)

It does not get any hotter when towing boat or RV.

I am pretty sure that if I did something to lower the temps by 10 degrees that the thermostat would close at that point.

My tranny on the other hand, seems to get hot. Temps climb on my tranny when towing or just when facing high winds. I intend on adding one of those PML tranny pans with extra fluid capacity first to see if that helps.

The first two things I would try if I was having minor engine heat issues (and everything was working), is syn oil and water wetter. Syn oil dropped the temps on my air cooled Harley by 20 degrees.

[Beastmaster]

Your thermostat is ultimately going to determine the temps.

As Paragon said - not really.

The thermostat will open roughly at a pre-set temp, but once it's open, it stays open. And once it's open, if the heat continues to go up, the thermostats have nothing to do with it.

So - if the thermostat is set for 180 degrees, they will open and stay open, even if the coolant is boiling out and it's at 280 degrees.

Also - Messing with the thermostats is not something that is recommended in today's strange emission controlled vehicles.

The vehicle has to get up to the optimium operating temp in as fast as possible to reduce greenhouse gases. The thermostats are designed to help with that.

The issue really at hand is how well the vehicle cooling system transfers heat away from the coolant to the open air. I have some doubts about that in an arid desert environment combined with the H3 design.

[tomp]

Okay, I give in. I must be a mongoloid or similar:D

[PARAGON]

As Paragon said - not really.

The thermostat will open roughly at a pre-set temp, but once it's open, it stays open. And once it's open, if the heat continues to go up, the thermostats have nothing to do with it.

So - if the thermostat is set for 180 degrees, they will open and stay open, even if the coolant is boiling out and it's at 280 degrees.

Also - Messing with the thermostats is not something that is recommended in today's strange emission controlled vehicles.

The vehicle has to get up to the optimium operating temp in as fast as possible to reduce greenhouse gases. The thermostats are designed to help with that.

The issue really at hand is how well the vehicle cooling system transfers heat away from the coolant to the open air. I have some doubts about that in an arid desert environment combined with the H3 design.tstats are notoriously the restriction in the coolant flow in the cycle. All vehicles taken as a whole, needs them to do exactly what they do. Get the engine temps to a certain operating temp as quickly as possible then fuhgetabowdit.

But, in situations, like yours, where every little thing might matter, maybe removing the most restrictive part of the system would improve cooling. It's just like removing a pinch from a water hose. Of course, that's sort of a band aid fix.

There has to be a bigger reason.

[vip808]

i don't know if this is true or not but a NAPA and Goodyear salesmen told me not to use (Purple Ice) a similar product because they said that the H2 needs to run hotter for the engine to work properly the way the manufacture intended. Since the two guys told me the same thing i just took their word for it.

[MONSTERMATT]

i don't know if this is true or not but a NAPA and Goodyear salesmen told me not to use (Purple Ice) a similar product because they said that the H2 needs to run hotter for the engine to work properly the way the manufacture intended. Since the two guys told me the same thing i just took their word for it.wtf????

[mdoyle]

wtf????

That might seem like a mistake but is probably right, consider the internal clearances, tolerances, oil gallery flow paths, expansion rate for cylinder head to block interface, and any other number of factors will result in a design temperature point.

If you go adding a wiz-bang cooling system that makes the motor run 25?C cooler, you'll gain volumetric efficiency but could cause increased wear.

[HUMMERcustoms.com/TAZ]

I did not read everything below to see if this had been mentioned.

One of the main reasons a tstat is in a vehicle is to maintain a balance temp around all cylinders and primarily from front to back cylinders or vice versa depending on start and finish position of water flow. In the newer highly computerized rides this is an important factor in fuel/air mix by computer and also complete combustion in each cyl.

That being said the computer has a range that it in can operate in. If you are doing your own tuning then the cooling issue becomes more easily handled since you are monitoring each cyl. and can tell the computer what You are wanting it to mix in air/fuel. You also are able to handle combustion by even running cooler or hotter plugs in different cyl. and even use hotter firing coil packs on each cyl. and well many other things to get a balance of combustion on all cylinders.

Depending on use especially towing and adding more HP as well torque it is important to have all the cooling you can get. I would like to be able to maintain a 160 degree temp all the time which is not doable. From what input I can get this temp is as low an ambient that computer would like to have the coolant at that would still let computer manage fuel/air above and below. Again tuning yourself allows for more flexibility. I have 160 degree tstat as well as the throttle body water line bypassed and even in winter in middle of country I have yet to reach that low of an operating temp. My dual electric fans are set at lowest setting which is 180. In a hot lap type of run situation I could wire a bypass so the fans run all the time but, it is not recommended by the motor manufactuers to do it for a lengthy period as motors need to cycle to help cool them.

I know this is not likely needed to be mentioned but, equal temps result in more equal combustion at each cylinder. This hopefully gives us more power and equalized torque on the crank down the full length.

Hope this is helpful.

TAZ