Pioneer AVIC-Z1 Install

[f5fstop]

Some have asked for it, so here it is. It is long, and there are very few photos.

First, let me give thanks to the following for their input; not only by answering a ton of questions to help me decide to purchase the Pioneer, but also for their ideas, suggestions and hints on aiding the installation of the NAV unit.
HummerNewbie
Mark805
BuzzH3
Agriv8r

Hope I didn't forget anyone.

Prior to starting installation, I soldered all the wires between the Peripheral adapter and the radio.
Grounds (EXCEPT FOR THE CAMERA),
Hot leads (B+ - yellow, and Acc ? Red), etc.,
Speaker wires,
Amp signal wire,
Mute wire,
Illumination wire with Z1 adapter in place,
Chime Adapter from Peripheral.

The camera ground and hot are connected to the box, so it is best to just butt connect the ground wire for the camera splitter box after it is installed and the wire is run under the dash. The power wires for the camera have an inline fuse that you can separate, so you can solder this wire into the ACC wires, and still run the hot wire under the dash.

Radio Removal:
1. Apply the park brake, and place the transmission lever in 1st gear. (This allows room for the center trim panel to be removed, and for a place to sit the NAV unit during install.)
2. Using a small plastic tool (a heavy plastic spoon or knife will do), insert it at the top of the center trim panel, where it is fitted to the I/P cover (just above the A/C vents).
3. Pull back on the plastic tool, to allow your hands to get behind the panel, and then pull it back. It is held in place by six fasteners; no screws.
4. Don?t pull too far back, you have to disconnect the following connectors:
Hazard flasher switch connector,
4/4 indicator switches? connector,
HVAC switch connectors at the bottom,
Accessory plugs connectors,
Any off-road or roof mounted lights that might be installed.
NOTE: There are HVAC connectors, one gray, and one black that are interchangeable between connections. However, the back of the trim panel identifies where the black and gray connectors are inserted into the trim panel.
5. Remove the four screws retaining the radio, remove the radio outward, disconnect the 24-pin and the 12-pin connectors, AM/FM antenna wire, and completely remove the radio.

Rear camera install:
The wiring harness from the camera contains four wires, two grounds (one for power and one for the camera signal), one ignition hot wire, and the camera signal wire. They all end in a 4-pin, non-waterproof connector; therefore, in my opinion, it has to end inside the passenger compartment, away from the elements, where it plugs into a small splitter box. The splitter box splits out the wires from the camera into a hot/ground wires and one wire with RCA connectors on both ends.
My original idea was to run the wire under the vehicle, on top of the left frame rail. I tried this, but the wire was not long enough to reach into the vehicle from the engine compartment.

Camera Mounting and wire routing:
1. Cleaned off the top of the trailer hitch, and allowed it to dry.
2. Mounted the camera to the bracket.
3. Pulled the cover off the two-sided tape on the bracket and pressed it into place.

http://images1.snapfish.com/34782%3A7%3C7%7Ffp347%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B% 3EWSNRCG%3D3233%3A438%3B6679nu0mrj


4. I then secured the camera and bracket to the trailer hitch with a large tie strap.
5. I installed about six feet of automotive black conduit to the camera wire harness for protection.
6. Routed the harness and conduit to the left of the camera, through the slot next to the trailer hitch connector.


http://images1.snapfish.com/34782%3A7%3C7%7Ffp348%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B% 3EWSNRCG%3D3233%3A438%3B568%3Cnu0mrj

7. Pulled the conduit and harness up, and tie strapped it to the trailer hitch harness.
8. Routed the wire over to the left rear corner. (Keep as far away from the muffler as possible.
9. I tie strapped the camera harness to the small factory harness in the left rear corner, under the car.
10. Lower the left rear seat back.
11. Slide the driver?s seat fully forward.
12. Remove the kick panel molding.
13. Remove the front sill molding.
14. Remove the center sill molding (note: the front sill molding must be removed in order to remove the rear sill molding). Both moldings are just a pull and remove type.
15. At the rear of the vehicle, I pulled the left rear lower compartment trim panel away from the vehicle; I did NOT remove it totally. All I wanted was access to the left rear part of the vehicle.
16. With the panel back, you will notice a square corner with a large square hole. Inside this chamber is an oval hole toward the front of the vehicle. Drop your fish wire down this hole, and the wire will come out under the vehicle.
17. Attach the camera wire that was left under the left rear corner of the vehicle to this fish wire and pull up through the holes out into the rear compartment area.
18. I then fished the wire toward the front of the vehicle, behind the lower trim panel and then under the carpeting. (At this point, I realized the camera wire would not make it to under the I/P.)
19. I installed the camera splitter box under the very rear of the left driver?s seat track. With a power seat, there is no interference with the seat operation; can?t say so for a manual seat, so check first.
20. I then did a small slit in the carpet right next to where the splitter box is mounted.
21. I then fished the camera wire under the carpeting and plugged it into the splitter box.
22. I then fished the three wires (power/ground/camera signal) through the slit in the carpet toward the outside of the vehicle.
23. I ran the three wires under the edge of the carpeting, up the kick panel, over the steering column, and into the radio area.
24. I installed the rear compartment trim panel; make sure to pull the outer weather seal over the trim panel (for reference look at the right weather-strip to trim panel that was not touched.
25. Installed the rear sill molding. Make sure to route the shoulder harness on the outside of the trim panel when installing.
Do not install the kick panel or driver?s door sill molding at this time.

[f5fstop]

Reverse Backup Signal Wire (VIOLET/WHITE): (used to turn on the camera automatically in reverse):
1. Remove the screw cover from the A-pillar trim molding (it just snaps out).
2. Remove the Phillips screw.
3. Pull the molding toward the inside of the vehicle, and upward to remove from vehicle.
NOTE: If you have side air curtains, there is no problem removing the A-pillar molding. The inflater module and all the electrical contacts for the side air curtain are in the back, by the C-pillar. Only thing in the A-pillar for the side air curtain is the tie down strap, attached to the frame. Do I need to say, ?Do not mess with this strap??
4. Look for a brown wire in the harness. If you have two brown wires, then you have to check which brown wire is the reverse signal wire from the trans selector. I used a voltmeter and a pin, and tapped both wires. With the ignition On, move the trans lever into Reverse. The correct wire will show battery voltage in reverse, zero voltage in any other gear.
5. Using the little connector that is attached to the Violet/white wire, splice this wire into the brown reverse signal input wire. Note, the violet/white wire has a resistor in line for the new head unit.
6. Route the wire down, inside the kick panel, over the steering column to the radio area.
If you are installing the microphone wire under the A-pillar molding, now is the time to do so.

Vehicle Speed Sensor Wire (Pink):
On some early model H3s, the dark green/white speed signal wire is in the 12-pin connector at the radio. It is located in terminal E of that connector. However, be careful, terminal H of the same connector also has a dark green/white wire that is the signal in from the XM radio receiver. If you look at the connector end, terminal E is noted in the illustration.

http://images1.snapfish.com/34782%3A7%3C7%7Ffp355%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B% 3EWSNRCG%3D3233%3A438%3B6678nu0mrj


If the speed signal wire is not in the connector:
1. Remove the right kick panel.
2. You will see a large connector in the kick panel area.
3. Look at terminal A8, there should be a dark green/white wire on one side of the connector and nothing on the other side. This is your speed signal wire.
Tap into the speed signal wire:
4. When you locate the speed signal wire, tap into it using the splice in the NAV package.

XM Receiver Install:
Thanks to BuzzH3 for an idea on the location of the XM receiver, the location was perfect. The only thing I added was quarter-inch foam tape to wedge in between the XM receiver and the OnStar module to prevent any chance of rattles. As Buzz stated, just push the small bracket at the bottom slightly forward toward the OnStar module, and the XM receiver slides right into place.
1. Install the XM receiver with the connectors? locations up.
2. Look into the radio location area under the dash and then look to the right. You will see the XM module mounted horizontally. The Greenish square connector toward the rear is the XM antenna you will use for the Pioneer XM receiver. Push on the bottom of this square connector, and pull the connector from the XM box.
3. I then did some modification to the GM XM antenna connector to allow it to attach to the Pioneer XM receiver. I put a slit into one side and snapped it into place. You probably could completely remove the connector (slide out the white terminal device on the green connector) and remove the wire, then insert it into the wire connector that came with the Pioneer XM antenna. I found it not necessary.
4. Attach the XM antenna to the Pioneer XM receiver.
NOTE: If you are installing Sirius, I would guess the installation is the same, and the GM antenna might be able to be used. But I do not know if the receivers are the same size, or the antenna is the same.

[f5fstop]

Navigation Unit GPS Antenna:
There are two HVAC ducts above where the radio installs. I mounted the GPS antenna to the top side of the right duct.
1. Peeled the plastic off the piece of metal that came with the antenna, and slightly pushing up on the bottom side of the I/P cover, I moved it as far forward as possible, and then pressed it into place on the top of the duct.
2. Positioned the GPS antenna to the metal plate. The antenna is held in place with the magnet on the bottom of the antenna.
NOTE: This will work for the GPS antenna, but will NOT work for XM.

Jumper 3 Serial Data wires:
This is dependent upon the revision level of the Peripheral adapter (if you are using another type of adapter, I cannot help). Older Peripheral adapters required you to splice together, with a jumper wire, the three purple Class 2 serial data wires that were in the two GM wiring harness connectors. Reason was the factory radio received the class 2 circuit and then passed it along to the XM receiver and the OnStar module. The Pioneer head unit does not do this pass-through. Therefore, if you have an older Peripheral adapter you must jumper the two purple wires from pins A1 and A1 of the 24-Pin (GM) connector to the purple wire from Pin G of the 12-pin connector. This allows the Class 2 signals to bypass the head unit and allow the factory XM receiver and the OnStar module the ability to continue communications in the bus circuit.
The latest revision of the Peripheral adapters does not require this jumper wire to be installed. The way to tell is look at the Peripheral 24-pin connector that mates to the GM 24-pin connector and see if there are two purple wires coming out of the connector and being spliced together, with a third purple wire going to the 12-Pin connector. If so, you do not have to jumper the wires on the GM connector.
The adapter I received from CarDomain.com was the latest revision, but the instructions to jumper the GM side of the connectors was included. I contacted Peripheral and they agreed, the jumper wire was not necessary.

Radio Face Plate Installation:
The radio faceplate from Schosche requires trimming of the top inside plastic. I trimmed off approximately 1/8 of an inch. Otherwise, when the NAV unit’s front cover opens/closes it will hang up against this plastic piece. (I used a file, but sandpaper or a Dremel would do the same job.)
I also snapped of the little plastic projections on the bottom of the face plate, to prevent any clearance issues upon installation of the center trim panel.

Pioneer AVIC-Z1 Head Unit Install:

Now the fun really starts…the Nav heat unit installation. This is the time to take a break, have a cold drink, relax, because you are about to shove a big NAV unit into a hole that is packed with more wiring than required by ten factory radios.

1. Position the radio onto the console, in front of the gear shifter; CAUTION, do not scratch the screen, use a towel.
Connect the Peripheral adapter to the 24-pin and 12-pin GM connectors.
2. Connect the pink vehicle speed sensor wire to the pioneer harness.
3. Connect the violet/white reverse signal wire to the Pioneer harness.
4. Butt end the camera ground wire to the grounds you soldered prior to installation.
5. Connect the ground wire to the crosscar beam brace behind the radio area. Just look in and you will see a couple 10mm bolts attaching a brace to the cross car beam. Loosen and slide the ground wire under the bolt, and then tighten.
6. Install the antenna adapter to the vehicle’s AM/FM antenna.
7. Install the microphone lead.
8. Install the NAV GPS lead.
9. Install the XM receiver power/ground connector and the XM signal wire to the XM receiver.
10. Install the signal lead from the XM receiver to the back of the Pioneer NAV unit.
11. Connect the camera’s hot lead to the fuse holder of the wire soldered to the adapter harness.
12. Connect the camera’s signal wire to the signal wire lead from the NAV unit.
13. I attached the chime module to the bracket just above the glove box with two-sided tape.
14. I positioned the super long, thick, XM receiver wire inside the left of the radio opening, just to get it out of the way.
15. I positioned the remaining wires and adapter below where the radio mounts, then slowly slid the NAV unit into the hole, and attached with four screws. If the bracket on the NAV unit does not fit, flush with the I/P, reach behind and move the wire harnesses around until it fits flush. Do not want to cut any wires.
16. Before reassembling the center trim panel, test the unit. Make sure all the attached components such as XM and rear camera operate. Until you call XM to turn on the box, you will get a preview on channel 1 and 0. Channel 0 also gives you the box ID number that you will need for XM.
Test the rear camera, but make sure you follow the instruction manual on setup. You have to turn the feature on via the NAV unit settings screen.
17. Once you feel that everything operates ok, install the center trim panel.
18. Connect all the connectors, and position the panel to the I/P and tap with your hand where the six fasteners are and it will pop into place. Make sure to align the two A/C ducts with the vents in the trim panel.
19. Install the kick panel and sill panel moldings.

Rear Camera View:
http://images1.snapfish.com/34782%3A7%3C7%7Ffp354%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B% 3EWSNRCG%3D3233%3A438%3B568%3Anu0mrj

Installed:
http://images1.snapfish.com/34782%3A7%3C7%7Ffp348%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B% 3EWSNRCG%3D3233%3A438%3B5693nu0mrj

These procedures are from the install on my 2006 H3, and from what I have gleaned from viewing the wiring schematics on 2006 vehicles and viewing some of the 2007 wiring schematics, all the wiring has remained the same. However, please understand that GM (as well as any manufacture) will sometimes change wire colors in the same model year, and in future model years. So, if you have any doubt, check for voltage at the wire before connecting a wire from the radio.
You can be pretty sure the wires between the factory radio, adapter and new NAV unit will be the same, since these follow a wiring code for radio power, ground, speaker, etc., wires.

The total time for the install was about 4 hours. I did waste about a half-hour on the wiring for the camera along the top of the frame rail, just to remove it and start over again. So, this install should take someone familiar with automotive wiring and trim panel removal about 3-4 hours.

Any questions, please feel free to PM me, and hopefully, I will be able to answer. For more technical questions, best to contact a professional installer.

[marin8703]

awsome write up, thanks alot. i will be installing mine this weekend per your instructions. Im not stupid, i just dont want a 2 and some ton paper weight in my garage after wards:D . dont have much experience with car electronics.

must have taken you a while to write this up. this is instruction manual grade material, and better.

Thanks!

[Viet Nam Vette]

Excellent Tech Artical Doug,

I know a lot of work went into puting that together here. Kudo's to evryone involved.

Now here's a question.. Since I have ordered My 07 H3 with the factory Nav unit... How much Oh a hassel will it be to add the Back Up Camera to it. Did the General Make Provisions to plug in after market gack..?

Also..will I void any warranties by installing this camera as I am interconnecting to the Factory system.

Thanks.

[f5fstop]

I could do some checking, but right now, I don't know if there is a jack in the back for a rear camera or not. I do know the NAVs on the trucks and large SUVs offer rear cameras, but not sure if it is the same model.
If it was possible to install a camera, the only warranty you could possibly void would be the radio, and I would have to have it fully explained to me what the problem was before I would accept the decision.

[f5fstop]

awsome write up, thanks alot. i will be installing mine this weekend per your instructions. Im not stupid, i just dont want a 2 and some ton paper weight in my garage after wards:D . dont have much experience with car electronics.

must have taken you a while to write this up. this is instruction manual grade material, and better.

Thanks!

Just take your time, and double check all the wiring connections prior to soldering or butt ending. The biggest problem I had was positioning all those damn wires out of the way of the head unit. However, there is a ton of room under the radio, and off to the left side, past the metal brace.

[marin8703]

anyone figure out a way to input into the headreast dvds. i took a look at the box where the two sets connect, but there are no standard video jacks. there is on unused conector on the box which may be an input or be used as input. anyone done this or know how it can be done??

Thanks!

[Waxing]

f5fstop, great details as always. Thanks

[bparker]

Nice write up! Would love to have that on mine.

[f5fstop]

A few backgrounds if anyone is interested.

http://images1.snapfish.com/34783933%3B%7Ffp348%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D3233%3A47697%3A%3B8nu0mrj

http://images1.snapfish.com/34783933%3B%7Ffp348%3Enu%3D3262%3E738%3E7%3B%3B%3E WSNRCG%3D3233%3A476949%3B3nu0mrj

[BuzzH3]

Excellent write-up. Did it take you longer to write all that up then to do the actual install??

I would agree with the massive amount of wires for the stereo. I think the hardest part of the install was just trying to route all of the wiring. I also have the iPod module so that adds another cable and 2 wires. Fortunately, there is pretty much room in the dash.

I'm curious how well your GPS antenna is working. I'm thinking of moving mine there also. How many satellites are orange on the connections screen?

One thing I have done recently is to add some spacers between the top of the stereo and the trim ring for the dask kit to make it line up with the dash opening a little better. I actually cut some small pieces off of a mouse pad and slid them in there. They were the perfect thickness.

I like where you placed your camera. I think I might move mine there also. I have it over the license plate right now and you just don't get a great view to the passenger side of the vehicle.

[HummerNewbie]

Excellent writeup. I am just glad that we could help you out for once :)

[f5fstop]

Excellent write-up. Did it take you longer to write all that up then to do the actual install??

I would agree with the massive amount of wires for the stereo. I think the hardest part of the install was just trying to route all of the wiring. I also have the iPod module so that adds another cable and 2 wires. Fortunately, there is pretty much room in the dash.

I'm curious how well your GPS antenna is working. I'm thinking of moving mine there also. How many satellites are orange on the connections screen?

One thing I have done recently is to add some spacers between the top of the stereo and the trim ring for the dask kit to make it line up with the dash opening a little better. I actually cut some small pieces off of a mouse pad and slid them in there. They were the perfect thickness.

I like where you placed your camera. I think I might move mine there also. I have it over the license plate right now and you just don't get a great view to the passenger side of the vehicle.

GPS is working great, it appears every time I have checked (about three times), I am getting 5+ satellites (max is eight for this system, I believe). For ground movement all you really need is three (for altitude correction you require four, but this unit does not require altitude correction). So far, with the reception, and the fact that it has software that locks on to the roads, it appears to be very accurate. Only thing I have noticed is in the book it says your vehicle is in the center of the arrow, and it appears to me, my vehicle locations is really at the front of the arrow.
When sitting at a red light, the arrow is right at the cross road. This is very minor.
Just make sure to use the metal plate to help the signal strength. Like I said in my writeup, this will work with GPS, but not with XM. GPS satellites sweep from north to south, back to north, while XM satellites are only in the southeast and southwest in a set orbit.

You can change the route using way points as in my other GPS units which is great for avoiding certain cities on a cross-country trip. Just add a few way points on a different route, and it will route you back on the original course or deviate you via a different route.

Today, I'm going to study the POIs.

"One thing I have done recently is to add some spacers between the top of the stereo and the trim ring for the dask kit to make it line up with the dash opening a little better."

Mine seems to line up great. I found out if the inside of the vehicle is really hot, the trim rings causes some slight interferrence with the screen when it opens. So, this weekend I will be doing a bit more sanding. Evidently the heat is causing the plastic to expand just enough to create this fit problem. But mine seems to fit the opening ok.

Only problem I have noticed is there is alternator whine when using the Onstar phone. I plan on installing a coil in the power circuit (kodiacz recommendation), if I can find one around here. I might even run a large gage ground from the point I used, directly to the battery. If you don't use the Onstar phone, you may never notice it.

[HummerNewbie]

Only problem I have noticed is there is alternator whine when using the Onstar phone. I plan on installing a coil in the power circuit (kodiacz recommendation), if I can find one around here. I might even run a large gage ground from the point I used, directly to the battery. If you don't use the Onstar phone, you may never notice it.

I get the same alternator whine but have not taken the time to get rid of it since I have hardly used the phone since the install. I also think that maybe the adapters have something to do with the units not powering up sometimes. This past weekend when heading to Tellico I had it shut down once about 30 seconds or so after powering up. Shut the truck off, restarted and it powered back up just fine.

[f5fstop]

Got the coil, plan to install tomorrow in the B+ circuit, as well as the ground. I may just run an 8-gauge ground from my ground point at the cross bar to the battery, just for grins.:D
I use the Onstar phone quite a bit, so even though I could live with the whine, I don't want too.:D
Also, purchased a new XM factory lead, that goes from the little junction where the main antenna lead comes into the vehicle and the two signals (one for Onstar, the other for XM) spits off. I was able to adapt the pioneer pink connector (came on the Pioneer XM antenna) to fit the slightly larger GM Onstar wire. I'll install that tomorrow too, as well as trim the faceplate a bit more. I noticed this morning it is rubbing on the bottom too, as well as the top.:eek:

[marin8703]

can someone tell me the model number of the scosche install kit, and the antena adapter that i am supposed to use? Thanks!

Oh and also i hear you guys are putting some coil in to help with onstar phone problem. That would be helpful for me too. can you post what this coil is and where to get, preferably online store. Thanks!

[DRTYFN]

Very nice write up. But I think f5fstop is a Klaus AE.;):D(That's a compliment of the highest order:D)

[f5fstop]

can someone tell me the model number of the scosche install kit, and the antena adapter that i am supposed to use? Thanks!

Oh and also i hear you guys are putting some coil in to help with onstar phone problem. That would be helpful for me too. can you post what this coil is and where to get, preferably online store. Thanks!
Faceplate Adapter Scosche GM1595B
If you are asking about the AM/FM antenna adapter, not sure what the part number is, it is an adapter that converts the smaller GM AM/FM connector (slides into back of radio) to the larger, common size used by the aftermarket and most other manufacturers. Radio shack normally carries this adapter, or any auto stereo install location.
The coil can be obtained at a car stereo onstall location or online. I'm not sure of the rating on the coil, the place I purchased from knew what I was talking about, and handed me one ($5.00). However, unless you use Onstar for a phone, I wouldn't bother.

[f5fstop]

Very nice write up. But I think f5fstop is a Klaus AE.;):D(That's a compliment of the highest order:D)
:D :D

[f5fstop]

Well, the coil (filter) made no difference at all; alternator whine is still there and drives me crazy.:mad:

[marin8703]

hey, what did you guys do with the old xm receiver thats in the car, leave it conncted or disconnect it, and take it out completely?

[2-H2's]

f5fstop...

I have the same pioneer unit in my H2. No noise to speak of, everything works great. However, I can't eliminate the CB, from changing the radio stations when keying up the mic :confused: :eek: It's always something :mad:

[HummerNewbie]

Well, the coil (filter) made no difference at all; alternator whine is still there and drives me crazy.:mad:

Guess I won't try going down that route then :(

hey, what did you guys do with the old xm receiver thats in the car, leave it conncted or disconnect it, and take it out completely?

Didn't have XM in my originally.

[f5fstop]

Left my XM in and connected. It might set a code if removed...not sure. When I sell the vehicle, I will probably pull the Pioneer system, and install on the next Hummer. So, I'll install the factory radio and connect the XM and get rid of the vehicle.

As far as no whine in an H2; don't believe the H2 comes with the Monsoon, and I'm sure, unless a newer H2, you have a different Onstar module.

I have decided to go with bluetooth, but I will be trying to shield the wires with aluminum tape when I install the bluetooth, just to see if that kills the whine.

[marin8703]

alrite, i've put off the install long enough but tomorow im gona do it.:o

I just have one or two questions left (sorry about all the questions so far):

1) I have the monsoon system so, to connect the speakers am i supposed to connect the speaker wires from the peripheral adapter to the "power cord conector" wires, or the speaker wires on the "RCA connector 1". In either case do i still connect the subwofer wires to the subwoofer wires on the rca connector 1 or where? and i do connect the system remote control rite?
Do all of the speakers go through the amp or just the subwoofer?

2) is it ok to connect all of the acc wires coming from nav unit, ipod adapter, and xm tuner all onto the same wire that comes to the wiring harness or should i run a larger gauge wire to some other place? Also the same question goes for the constant, and also the ground?

I think that all i need to know to do the install tomorow (well at least i hope so):o .

Thanks for all the help peope, i really appreciate it, Thanks!

P.S. Can someone post instructions on how to remove rear panel, whre subwoofer is thanks.

[f5fstop]

alrite, i've put off the install long enough but tomorow im gona do it.:o

I just have one or two questions left (sorry about all the questions so far):

1) I have the monsoon system so, to connect the speakers am i supposed to connect the speaker wires from the peripheral adapter to the "power cord conector" wires, or the speaker wires on the "RCA connector 1". In either case do i still connect the subwofer wires to the subwoofer wires on the rca connector 1 or where? and i do connect the system remote control rite?
Do all of the speakers go through the amp or just the subwoofer?
I connected to the speaker wires, not the amp wires coming from the pioneer. All speakers go through the amp. Do not connect the subwoofer wires, and amp does the splitting to the sub. Just connect the eight speaker wires.
2) is it ok to connect all of the acc wires coming from nav unit, ipod adapter, and xm tuner all onto the same wire that comes to the wiring harness or should i run a larger gauge wire to some other place? Also the same question goes for the constant, and also the ground?
I connected all the IGN hot wires to the red wire from the Peripheral relay that is designed to provide IGN power to the radio. I also connected the one yellow (B+) wire from the XM to the yellow wire from the Peripheral adapter and the radio.
For ground, I made one basic ground circuit, grounding all the wires behind the radio. DO NOT, connect to the ground wire coming off the GM connector. If you look behind the radio opening, you will see two 10mm bolts, on each side of the opening, attaching a brace (or braces) to the round cross car beam. That is what I used for the main ground. Last week I also ran a very heavy gauge wiire from this location directly to the negative battery cable for a redundant ground point. (Trying to remove the alternator whine that is only on the Onstar Phone Circuit.)
I think that all i need to know to do the install tomorow (well at least i hope so):o .

Thanks for all the help peope, i really appreciate it, Thanks!

P.S. Can someone post instructions on how to remove rear panel, whre subwoofer is thanks.

You don't really need to completely remove to fish the camera wire into the vehicle. Open the rear door, remove the seal from around the panel, and pull the panel partially away. This gives you the access to the area in the rear corner to fish the wire into the vehicle, then just fish the wires forward to the rear seat area.

[marin8703]

Hey, just wanted to let you know i finished my install in about 5 hours, with breaks. Job wasnt difficult if you know what your doing (thanks to you guys I knew what I was doing), but it go a little frustrating at times.

I just wanted to thank everyone who helped me out. Thanks!:D

Drove around for 2 hours yesterday, loving it!

[marin8703]

hey, tried the onstar phone with the nav on, the was no whine or noise of any kind, quiet like before. I have the monsoon system.

The only thing im having a problem with now is the trim around the screen. I gotta even it out quiet a bit.

[f5fstop]

hey, tried the onstar phone with the nav on, the was no whine or noise of any kind, quiet like before. I have the monsoon system.

The only thing im having a problem with now is the trim around the screen. I gotta even it out quiet a bit.

Interesting...
I wonder why I have this whine, and still do. I wrapped the wires with aluminum foil yesterday, and it helped, but it was still too much for me to ever take. I guess I'll have to use those extra 100 minutes Onstar gave me for paying a one-year safe and sound package while sitting in a parking lot with the engine off.:D
However, I sure do love the Bluetooth I added. Actually cheaper than using Onstar (even with the Verizon Onstar plan they offer), sound is fantastic. Did take a while to sync the phone to the NAV. Seems you have to do everything in about a 30 second window, and with an LG 8100 phone, you cannot transfer the phone book. Every time I tried it, it lost bluetooth. But I manually punched in the numbers and everything works great.
Placed the bluetooth adapter under the front of the console.
I'm done taking that trim piece off.

[f5fstop]

I just downloaded the update for Gracenotes, and was wondering, what is on that 20 gigs that we cannot access on the AVIC hard drive? There must be a lot of empty space, just waiting to be filled with something.

[marin8703]

Supposedly its all maps, maps and more maps, the gracenote database, the windows mobile operating system, and whatever other files are needed for operation. There most likely is plenty of free space on there, but i guess that might be needed for future updates.

Im not totaly sure, but i think also all of the used data is stored onto that partition of the drive, except for the music lybrary which is in a separate partition.

Some people on avic411 are trying to figure out the HD, how it can be modified and upgraded, looks like they have made great progress.

Oh by the way the flashing circuit that unlocks teh nav doest work for me:mad: , which totaly sucks, i got a July 2006 build, and aparantly that bypass was fixed somewhere in july. im praying for some smart fella to figure out another way to unlock the nav, fo i dont have to pull over to enter a new adress.

oh an also, does anyone else get a "pop" through the speakers when turning on onstar, right aster you press the button, and everything else after that is normal?

[f5fstop]

Mapping software is not that large. I have Garmin Street Maps, which contains all the same information as the Pioneer Nav, and it is contained on two CD-ROMs, and is not compressed. So, that's about 1.5 gig.
(My Garmin total USA Topographical set, is only on three discs.)
Gracenote is a pretty large data base, the update was about 400 meg, and I'm not sure if that was an update, or a total new file.
Operating system takes quite a bit I'm sure, but here must be about 10 gig non used. Just my thoughts.

I had heard that on later systems the Z1 did not work. Give 'em some time and someone will find a way. I guess I'm lucky, the Z1 works great for me.

If yours was manufactured in July, you probably don't need the Gracenote update with is dated in June.

The times I have tested onstar for the alterator whine, and the one time I actually used it to place a quick call, did not produce any snaps or pop. Even with Bluetooth, there is no snapping or popping, and the owner's manual warns you that it can happen. Only problem so far with Bluetooth is I get complaints from people saying they receive an echo. Something that is common with Bluetooth setups.

[f5fstop]

I will have to add something about this unit which is annoying, and it is the voice system. Sometimes, I can say, Call, Telephone book and it takes me to telephone book. However, most of the time when I say telephone book, it takes me back to the Map screen. It may not actually be in the voice recognition circuit, it may just be a flaw in the system, but it is annoying as hell.
Other things I have noticed that make no sense.
You can't mute the audio when actively on the phone.
Echo is terrible on the other end. In fact, I have some people who refuse to talk to me while using the bluetooth system. I even contacted Pioneer before purchasing this and they said that it was not a problem.

Pioneer says that if people are receiving this feedback echo, it is due to the location of the microphone. I have it installed in the corner of the I/P cluster trim. Per Pioneer, it must be installed on the visor; however, they don't say what happens when you have to use the visor...something I do quite often since I travel west quite a bit in the evening.

I'll relocate the mike somewhere on the top of the A-pillar and see if that solves the problem, but I believe the problem is in their unit.

Anyone else getting complaints on the echo from people they talk too?

[deserth3]

Well, the coil (filter) made no difference at all; alternator whine is still there and drives me crazy

Couple of things to check.
First remove the redundant ground. The two ground connections can develope a feedback between them (can't remember the "big" words for this offhand). It's best to use only one ground. In my opinion the shorter the better.

Second check and make sure your antena wire is in all the way. If you had to add an adapter check that too. but I think the first is your problem.

[f5fstop]

The problems existed before the extra ground wire to the battery was run. The original ground is about four inches in length. I agree a redundant ground can be a problem, not if the wire to the second redundant wire is directly to the ground post of the battery.

All connections are in tight, and the VCIM connections were never touched.

Spend a lot of time this evening on AVIC411, the Bluetooth echo is talked about in many forums. I have to agree with a few, it might be that the mic is not a sound cancellation mic, and that the sound from the speaker is feeding back into the mic.
As for the screen going to the map when the phone book is requested, many are experiencing this, and some only experience it if calling while on the map screen, but not when on the AV screen. I will check this out tomorrow, but still, doesn't sound right.
I just wrote pioneer a very long bitch letter. I am quite sure they are well aware of the problems, and if it is as simple as a new mic design, then I would hope the would be in the development stage at this time.

I know now, that next year when I sell the H3, the Pioneer nav can go with it, and I'll just pay for the overpriced H3 optional NAV unit. At least Onstar will work without an alternator whine.

[BuzzH3]

Supposedly its all maps, maps and more maps, the gracenote database, the windows mobile operating system, and whatever other files are needed for operation. There most likely is plenty of free space on there, but i guess that might be needed for future updates.

Im not totaly sure, but i think also all of the used data is stored onto that partition of the drive, except for the music lybrary which is in a separate partition.

Some people on avic411 are trying to figure out the HD, how it can be modified and upgraded, looks like they have made great progress.

Oh by the way the flashing circuit that unlocks teh nav doest work for me:mad: , which totaly sucks, i got a July 2006 build, and aparantly that bypass was fixed somewhere in july. im praying for some smart fella to figure out another way to unlock the nav, fo i dont have to pull over to enter a new adress.

oh an also, does anyone else get a "pop" through the speakers when turning on onstar, right aster you press the button, and everything else after that is normal?

Check this out: http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html

This guy figured out the bypass for the newer units.

[Mark805]

OMG great write up! Glad you got it all installed.


sorry for the slow response.. I was on vacation all month :)

[marin8703]

Check this out: http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html

This guy figured out the bypass for the newer units.

Thanks for the heads up! Ill try it whis weekend, hopefully it works!

[JeffW]

I connected to the speaker wires, not the amp wires coming from the pioneer. All speakers go through the amp. Do not connect the subwoofer wires, and amp does the splitting to the sub. Just connect the eight speaker wires.


I'm a little confused, probably because I don't have a Z1 to look at. I'm assuming when you say "speaker wires" you are talking about the output of the Z1's built in 4x50W amp, and "amp wires" are the low level outputs that bypass the built-in amp. Is that right?

I just got my service manuals and see that they show low level outputs from the oem premium head unit going to the Monsoon amp, so I'm wondering why not do the same with the Z1?? Does it seem like the Z1 speaker outputs are overdriving the amp at all, or are you really getting a good range with the volume control? Or are the OEM low level outputs really not so low?

[f5fstop]

I have full range of volume control, from nothing to blow your ears (and speakers).
You can use the low level outputs from the radio; however, you will have to use adapters and not sure what would happen if the signals went through the adapter.
They are lower level outputs, but it appears it does not affect the Monsoon amp.

[Star Jones]

Iz gots da azztaztik bootee thumpa n minz hump ride. Nigga yo witeys shonuf aint got da pimp. butt iz sho do. I aint hovz ya ether. Min toylit iz da thumpadumphump.

[nafs]

CAN YOU DIG_IT.........

It's that dude from American Idol... I think from a couple of seasons ago..LOL

[f5fstop]

CAN YOU DIG_IT.........

It's that dude from American Idol... I think from a couple of seasons ago..LOL


No, it is just another AE spreading sh*t and screwing around with decent threads.
If we are lucky, her crabs will finish her off some night.

[K9sH3]

I am new to this and need much help, I want to install a in-dash DVD player, but do not want a Nav or camera. It seems to be that Pioneer has this market locked in. What unit has been used and fits without major work. Is the AVIC-Z1 my only choice?
Thanks

[f5fstop]

You might want to start a new thread since the AVIC-Z1 is a NAV player. As for the install, it would be almost identical if a double din unit.

[wpage]

F5 you are unreal. Great technical reference for when ready for Nav!:perfect10s:

[Ken06H3]

Nice installation and the installation details are great.http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

Does this unit identify the radio station info that is being broadcast?
Can you play a DVD while driving (if you've already spoken about this I missed it)?
Will Ipod video play thru the unit (I'm guessing yes, but have no experience with the setup)?

Thanks again for the details...

[f5fstop]

Nice installation and the installation details are great.http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

Does this unit identify the radio station info that is being broadcast? VIA XM, it is not an RDS for normal stations.
Can you play a DVD while driving (if you've already spoken about this I missed it)? Never tried it, but the Z1 bypass I installed allows a DVD to play while driving, and to also bypass the point of interest lockout while driving.
Will Ipod video play thru the unit (I'm guessing yes, but have no experience with the setup)? Not sure about video, it will play an ipod with another adapter.
Thanks again for the details...
Answers above

[Mstgvic]

According to the box for the AVIC-Z1 there is not camera included. I know pioneer makes a rear mount camera that can be purchased extra. Is that the one you went with.

By the time you buy all parts it appears that this is going to cost aroun $1800.00 There is no way I can install it myself so I'll have to pay for the installation. Any guess at what that should run? I am your typical soccer mom and have no mechanical skills whatsoever but don't want to get ripped off as some dealership sees a woman and just sees $$$$$$$$$.

Thanks, mstgvic

[wpage]

F5,
Have ordered the avic-d2 which has 6.5" rather than your 7" screen. Question, do you think it will need to be shimmed up to appear normal in the opening. Your picures look like the 7" is a good fit. Have not recieved it yet to hold in place but wondering your wise opinions:D

[HummerNewbie]

F5,
Have ordered the avic-d2 which has 6.5" rather than your 7" screen. Question, do you think it will need to be shimmed up to appear normal in the opening. Your picures look like the 7" is a good fit. Have not recieved it yet to hold in place but wondering your wise opinions:D

I have the D1, same as the D2, and it fits great.

[wpage]

Hummer Nubie,
Was the install the same?

[f5fstop]

According to the box for the AVIC-Z1 there is not camera included. I know pioneer makes a rear mount camera that can be purchased extra. Is that the one you went with.

By the time you buy all parts it appears that this is going to cost aroun $1800.00 There is no way I can install it myself so I'll have to pay for the installation. Any guess at what that should run? I am your typical soccer mom and have no mechanical skills whatsoever but don't want to get ripped off as some dealership sees a woman and just sees $$$$$$$$$.

Thanks, mstgvic

Sorry for the late response, but never noticed this thread opened up again.

Yes, I went with the Pioneer camera, but almost any auto camera should work.

WPAGE:
can't say the D2 install would be the same, but I would guess it would be. The wires from the rear of the unit should be the same, interface should be the same, only difference is the Z1 may need some wires changed around to bypass the system.
You can find information on the bypass on www.avic411.com, under Z1 threads.

[HummerNewbie]

Hummer Nubie,
Was the install the same?

Between the D1 & D2, yes. They are the same unit, just updated software.

[marin8703]

Between the D1 & D2, yes. They are the same unit, just updated software.

hey, kinda off topic, were the D1s upgradable via software to D2 or would one have to purchase the D2 unit upgraded?

The reason im asking is because there is a rumor about Z2, so im truing to figure out if the Z1s we got could be upgraded to Z2 via software.

Thanks.

[dеiтайожни]

hey, kinda off topic, were the D1s upgradable via software to D2 or would one have to purchase the D2 unit upgraded?

The reason im asking is because there is a rumor about Z2, so im truing to figure out if the Z1s we got could be upgraded to Z2 via software.

Thanks.

FWIW - I upgraded my N2 to an N3 just by putting in a newer map disk. The user interface and maps anyways.

[f5fstop]

hey, kinda off topic, were the D1s upgradable via software to D2 or would one have to purchase the D2 unit upgraded?

The reason im asking is because there is a rumor about Z2, so im truing to figure out if the Z1s we got could be upgraded to Z2 via software.

Thanks.

There are rumors there will be a Z2 sometime in the future, and there are rumors there will be an update for the Z1 to cure some of its problems; hopefully, bluetooth. But nothing to say the update will make the Z1 a Z2.
Big rumor is the Z2 may operate on a Windows type platform to allow communication between a laptop and the Z2.

[wpage]

hey, kinda off topic, were the D1s upgradable via software to D2 or would one have to purchase the D2 unit upgraded?

The reason im asking is because there is a rumor about Z2, so im truing to figure out if the Z1s we got could be upgraded to Z2 via software.

Thanks.
The D2 is a S/W upgrade.:popcorn: :popcorn: :)

[marin8703]

The D2 is a S/W upgrade.:popcorn: :popcorn: :)

Sweet, so hopefully the ?Z2? will be a software upgrade.:D thanks:)

[Urban Ops]

Is there any reason you couldn't install the camera inside just under the third brakelight?

[YANKEES31]

Overall how happy are you with this unit. I am thinking of putting the Z2 in my truck but have heard nightmare stories about freezing issues.

Thanks

[wannabeH3]

I just ordered my z2, it will be here on the 20th, i plan on following these directions. ill let you know how it goes

[marin8703]

Overall how happy are you with this unit. I am thinking of putting the Z2 in my truck but have heard nightmare stories about freezing issues.

Thanks

i have had my z1 for about 1 year now and am very happy with it. hasnt frozen on me once. i had so trouble with the back up camera but thats ok now.

By the way, pioneer released an update several days ago for the freezing issue on the z1-z2. i havent installed it since i dont need it, but its out there.

[SELWA]

Just finished reading up on installs. I'm a Kenwood man nyself but the basics apply to any aftermarket radio. I have a DDX7019 I picked up used to replace our Monsoon set up in the 07 H3. I've also found eventhough the manual says to use the RCA inputs from the radio to the harness - this makes a loud speaker pop everytime you turn the unit off. By using the regular speaker outputs this is eliminated.

A few questions:

1. I bought a Pac-Audio wire harness to keep the "beep/tone" Is it really necessary? At $120 seems steep compared to the $5 harnesses i've bougth for many installs I've done. (http://www.pac-audio.com/instructions/c2r-gm24.pdf)

2. Is it me or does the Sub seem to sound lower? The OEM sounds like it had more punch from the sub. I know the front/rear wire which go to the amp are aldo supposed ot power the sub but just seems lower.

[wannabeH3]

my sub sounds great with the z2. i bought a cheap harness and now i have an annoying sound all the time in the background that I am used to and when you turn the car off all the speakers pop. drives me nuts.