Easy Air Compressor Install in Rear Door!!

[Hal]

First move the jack over as I outlined here: http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26221
to create a new space in the rear hatch.

Then get a Firestone Inflation Station II. ($269)

It fits right in the new space, didn't even have to remove the jack to slide it in or out!:dancingbanana:
3870538706


If you have a factory hitch with accesory plug adaptor you are ready to power the compressor right out of the box! Use it from inside the door or outside. You can power it from the battery directly with the clips as intended, but it's real convenient to plug into the 30A fused trailer plug (don't try to use the accesory plug inside the rear door, it won't handle the amp load). You will need a male lighter-plug that has wires that you can clamp the battery power clips to.
3870838710


Open rear door, plug in to the trailer hitch power plug, connect air hose and you're ready.
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I couldn't believe how quickly I had this thing up and running and stowed so nicely in the rear door.

Initial performance test: deflates one tire from 35 to 20 psi in 90 seconds and then inflated from 20 to 35 psi in 90 seconds.

what questions do you have?

The carry bag it came in will be good for tools and recovery gear!
38713

[Wisha Haddan H3]

Nice and clean :beerchug:

Could you post a larger picture of the connection to the trailer plug?

Also, I googled your compressor and found some here for $259.95

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/9289.html?mv_pc=froogle

[Hal]

my $269 included shipping from http://www.truckspring.com


here's the high tech wiring set up (only the factory external trailer plug outlet will handle 30A, don't use the interior accesory power outlet!)

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[ETD]

Nice job. Now we know how to mount air in the rear door as well as inside the hood a la Fourtofour. Thanks for the info.

[usetosellhummer]

Looks kick as$ but what about the heat? close the door and down the road smell burning plastic??????

[ChiHummer3]

Looks kick as$ but what about the heat? close the door and down the road smell burning plastic??????

What am I missing? Why would you smell burning plastic?? :confused:

[SR1355]

I don't think it's intended to be in operation while vehicle is on the move....

[usetosellhummer]

maybe it's the angle of the pic but it looks like the platic opening of the door is close to the compressor? after 4 tires mine is pretty damn hot, close the door wile it's hot in a closed in compartment ?

[Field Scout]

thanks for the tip, moved jack and placed compressor yesterday, took about 30 min, great idea:beerchug:

[Wisha Haddan H3]

The MF-1050 and MF-1052 (available at costco now) are about the same size. I test-fit my MF-1052 and it fits perfect.

[Hal]

regarding the heat question...
There is more clearance in there than the picture shows and even more so if you get a smaller compressor.
This setup is simple and power is not connected until you stop and open the rear compartment. I haven't done a full test but I think it will depend on what compressor you have. Mine was a bit more expensive and I assume more powerful than some others, so it fills tires quick without too much strain and after doing two tires it was nowhere near hot enough to melt anything. Also the whole compressor doesn't heat up, mostly just the cylinder part with the cooling fins. With this mounting option you can run the compressor outside on the ground or from inside the door, depending on the situation.

[Field Scout]

I never could get the trailer light adapter to work for power so I ran power from the battery back to inside the door following rear wiper power from back to front, works great:jump:

[Wisha Haddan H3]

I found this RV adapter (http://www.amazon.com/Hoppy-7-Pole-Connector-Trailer-Plastic/dp/B0000AXTX7/ref=sr_1_22/002-2314049-0624812?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1183657644&sr=1-22)at walmart. With a little splicing, you could ditch the alligator clips and plug directly into the trailer harness.


http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/I/318QWWTQWCL._SS400_.jpg

[Wisha Haddan H3]

Well I finally got around to it and spliced my compressor to the RV socket plug this morning. I could have used the center pin, but that's a keyed accessory terminal. I went with the 12v + accessory blade for constant power. I took my time and probably spent 30 min on it ... easy as pie.
Check the diagram on the trailer harness cover and verify which blades are which.
Test the blades with a voltmeter. The 12v accessory blade is at about 2 o'clock. The ground is directly opposite at about 8 o'clock.
Separate the terminal adapter from the plug housing, and mark power and ground on the corresponding terminals. RV plugs are directional, so matching the blades is important.
Cut the positive alligator clip and mark it with tape
Cut the negative alligator clip
Thread the plug housing onto the wires
Strip 1/2" off the positive lead, twist the strands and clamp to the adapter's 12v + terminal
Strip 1/2" off the negative lead, twist the strands and clamp to the adapter's ground terminal
**IMPORTANT** Insert the adapter into the plug housing and SECURE WITH SET SCREW. If you don't secure it, it will get stuck in the harness during step 10.
Plug assembled RV plug adapter into trailer harness and test compressor ... congratulations, you're done.The compressor definitely runs better with a direct battery connection. I might mount it in the engine bay at some point, but this will work for now.

[MUD4ME]

:jump: Nice job! But I must admit..........shhhh......i copied you....

[Big Dad]

First move the jack over as I outlined here: http://www.elcovaforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26221
to create a new space in the rear hatch.

Then get a Firestone Inflation Station II. ($269)

It fits right in the new space, didn't even have to remove the jack to slide it in or out!:dancingbanana:
3870538706


If you have a factory hitch with accesory plug adaptor you are ready to power the compressor right out of the box! Use it from inside the door or outside. You can power it from the battery directly with the clips as intended, but it's real convenient to plug into the 30A fused trailer plug (don't try to use the accesory plug inside the rear door, it won't handle the amp load). You will need a male lighter-plug that has wires that you can clamp the battery power clips to.
3870838710


Open rear door, plug in to the trailer hitch power plug, connect air hose and you're ready.
3871138712

I couldn't believe how quickly I had this thing up and running and stowed so nicely in the rear door.

Initial performance test: deflates one tire from 35 to 20 psi in 90 seconds and then inflated from 20 to 35 psi in 90 seconds.

what questions do you have?

The carry bag it came in will be good for tools and recovery gear!
38713

I'm glad this was posted...I remember reading it a while ago and forgot that I wanted to do it also. Looks like a good project for tomorrow.

[Desert Dan]

What's the amp draw on the compressor?

I'd check to see if the trailer wiring is up to it.

Most larger compressors go right to the battery either hard wired or with clamps.

[Hal]

The vehicle wiring handles 30A at the factory installed trailer plug (as mentioned in the 1st and 3rd posts above:p ). No problems, have run my compressor for more than 10 minutes straight and no blown fuses.

[Desert Dan]

Thanks for the info.

The cables on my Extreme Outback compressor are the size of jumper cables

He's the Tech Specs:

- Continuous duty cycle
- 3/4 horsepower motor
- 30-amp draw at 35psi
- 40-amp draw at 150psi
- 4 cfm free flow rate

[Hal]

That is a hefty compressor! you would have to be careful there.

[Allen Beggs]

I just ordered the Firestone Air Station. Great find:perfect10s: