When I accelerate past 40MPH my whole truck starts to vibrate. Anyone have any ideas what this could be? I think it's the transmission, but I'm not sure.

When I accelerate past 40MPH my whole truck starts to vibrate. Anyone have any ideas what this could be? I think it's the transmission, but I'm not sure.

When I accelerate past 40MPH my whole truck starts to vibrate. Anyone have any ideas what this could be? I think it's the transmission, but I'm not sure.

Most likely suspect is a tire that slung a weight or is otherwise out of balance.

Yeah, definitely a misbalanced tire would be my first guess.

Has anything happened to your truck lately? Hit a big pot hole, etc.? Have you been off-roading?

Sounds like something loose or something bent. Could be as simple as wheel weights missing, or mud/dirt caked up on one side of a rotating assembly.

A bent wheel, axle, driveshaft, or damaged U-joint could be the cause.

Is the vibration speed specific and independent of the speed of the engine?

I checked all of the tires, they still have all of the weights on them. I haven't been off road. It started on the highway. It vibrates the whole truck, makes the dash shake like crazy. Very oddly up until 40 it's fine. Has good acceleration, there's no lag or anything. I'm having it towed to the dealership tomorrow. I'll keep you guys posted.

Had that happen on a car once, above 35 it would vibrate the **** out of the car. It was a busted U-joint.

I had an issue once before with considerable vibration on a Jeep Cherokee. We found the rear axle to be welded incorrectly at factory.

See if your axle might be bent or welded incorrectly from factory, (best way to verify this is to measure distance from edge of tires (tire tread) to body of H2 on both Driver & Passenger side.

You may also wish to check and see if one of the inner axles may be wearing. To check this, stand behind H2 and visually check if any of the tires sticks out further than the other or you can measure the distance from the body to the edge of the tire.

Hope this helps..

Well the *******s at Hummer Village had my truck all day yesterday. Throughout the day I called about 10 times, each time I was told that they were gonna have somebody take it out for a ride to see what I was talking about. I kept saying that I would like to at least know today what the problem was. Don't worry Dennis we're here till 7 is what I was told, we'll definately have somebody look at it. When I called back at 6:30 I was told that my personal service representative??? had gone for the day and nobody could tell me what was wrong with my truck since the only 2 technicians left were working on a white H1. Kind of Ironic that after every vist I get a survey in the mail. Maybe if they paid more attention to customer service at the point of service, they wouldn't need the surveys. Am I wrong for wanting more? I only spent 57 grand on my truck and at least a grand a year in annual maintainence.

Ok Here's the diagnosis. I'm being told My truck needs the following:

Transfer Case and Drive Shaft= $2289.00
Pitman and Idler Arms= $695.00
Alignment= $89.00

The Kicker:
I was just told that the warranty that they pitched me (7 years 100 thousand miles) when I bought my truck, is not a factory warranty, it's an after market warranty. They are not sure if these things will be covered and if they are there will be a dedcutible.

I think it is time to pop a gasket.

How many miles are on your truck anyway? Something is fishy. Driveshafts just don't go bad.

I would find out more about what's wrong with the transfer case and the driveshaft.

In deference to Ken, driveshafts can get out of balance for one reason or the other or a spicer failure can cause the end of the shaft to get wallowed out.

Your warranty will most likely cover this as most extended warranties cover the drive train at a minimum. You may or may not have a deductible depending on what you chose when you bought the warranty. In any case, the $1500 warranty you paid extra for might have just paid for itself. Get your information out and call the whoever the warranty is with and get the details.

I know there is a TSB on the drive shaft.
The new shaft is I think 1/8 longer then
the old one.Maybe klause can dig it up?

Idler arm

http://elcova.com/groupee/forums?m=7136014471&a=tpc&cdra=Y&s=2826088551&r=19 46014471&f=6706011751
Adm Msg - 2003 HUMMER H2 Idler Arm Lubrication (Adm Number HUS20020016 9/25/02) #HUS20020016
Adm Msg -- 2003 HUMMER H2 Idler Arm Lubrication (Admin Number HUS20020016 -- 9/25/02)
2003 HUMMER H2

General Manager, Service Manager, Parts Manager, Warranty Administrator, New Vehicle Manager, Sales Manager

The idler arm requires lubrication at the recommended intervals specified in the Owner's Manual. However, the zerk fitting is apparently not visible and readily accessible. The underbody protection plate on the vehicle (the one embossed with H2) needs to be removed. The idler arm zerk fitting is facing the right hand frame rail of the vehicle. Therefore, a 90 degree fitting on the grease gun is required. The Snap-On part number for the grease gun adapter is YA757.

Transfer Case

http://elcova.com/groupee/forums?m=3556075362&a=tpc&cdra=Y&s=2826088551&f=67 06011751

Driveshaft:

Lubricate splines
"Inspected Driveline and found the splines need lube."

This is the one most likely similar to yours.
http://elcova.com/groupee/forums?a=tpc&s=2826088551&f=5106011751&m=262603613 5&r=2626036135#2626036135

Posted by: mpetrich
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> Happy New Year Everyone,
Just wanted to let everyone know that I had to replace my throttle body and the back half of my transfer case and drive shaft (all of which was covered under warranty). I had some problems with my throttle sticking at about 2000 RPM and I had that "clunk" whenever I accelerated from a slow roll. Not from a complete stop, but from a slow roll. Brought the truck in for an oil change and explained the problems to the dealer. They knew about both of these issues (other H2 owners have had the same problems) and both were fixed in a day. From what I understand, the current driveshaft was a little too short and a longer driveshaft was installed. NO, bad jokes here.. :-) There is a HUGE difference now that the driveshaft issue is fixed. Wish I would have had it fixed sooner.
Matt <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Please note, most of this info come from Mr. Klaus.

Dealer just called me stating that the warranty people want him to take apart the Transfer case to see why it failed, he said he's not going to do that because the transfer case is shattered. He then asked if I had been wheeling recently to which I said no (no Lie) He then said he doesn't think they will cover it because drive shafts just don't bend I must have hit something. I am ready to go Postal. I'm leaving for vacation on Saturday and wanted my truck back by then. I'm on my way over there now. My wife made me lock up my guns.

Sorry woking off of old dead cells.
A mind is a terriable thing to never
have.
Good luck.

Update.

I think you may be right Ken. I think it had something to do with this problem being there for a while I just never noticed it. My personal service assistant (now known as ass) was and is trying to say it's from off road abuse. What I don't get is it almost seems like they don't want to deal with the aftermarket warranty company. One way or the other they will get paid so you would think he would just be helpful. I don't know if they would make more money if I had to pay myself versus the warranty company. I called the company myself and talked to them they said that they would have to indeed send an adjuster to look at my truck (which I have no problem with) and then they would determine if they are gonna cover the repairs. He also stated that there would some evidence consistent with "off road abuse" as the ass called it. I'm told the adjuster will look at it sometime within the next 48 hours. To save myself some aggravation I'm gonna wait till I hear back from them. One question I have is if it comes back that they will not cover the repairs, what type of recourse do I have? It's 3 g's just for the parts and who knows how much for the labor.

Damn - I hate to see this kind of thing, but this is the very reason why I tell people to run away from 3rd party warranty companies.

I hope things work out for you, but I'm afraid this one is going to get ugly. I suspect what will happen is that you will have to pay the dealer, and then you will be stuck trying to recover the cost from the warranty company.

BTW - The warranty company may require used parts be used to repair your truck! Check your policy!

I'm with Kalus on this one ceck all the linkage very carefully - something is loose.