Quote:
Originally posted by f5fstop:
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Not easy that is for sure. However, there are four large bolts securing the hub to the knuckle and these bolts are torqued at 180 N.m each. The tire is then attached to the hub. I have never tried it, but the vehicle should be able to be driven without shafts.
The shaft torque is actually 235 N.m (ball buster). The torque is high since the shaft is fairly large.
I may just try this, because I'm not too sure if you really have to remove the knuckle completely. You might (as someone stated) be able to remove the tie bar and get enough swing on the knuckle to slide the shaft out. Happen to have a Hummer on the rack with the cylinder head out.
Maybe if the shafts were weaker, the shaft would go before the diff.
(Then we could call it a Jeep
)
I guess, if you had a metal saw, and didn't mind the extra 200 or so for the shafts, cut 'em and remove. That would be an easy job.
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Not that it matters but I am not sure where you got your shaft torque figure. This is out of SI for the H3.Fastener Tightening Specifications
Application
Specification
Metric
English
Front Wheel Drive Shaft Nut
260 N·m
191 lb ft
I have done an axle swap and tried just turning the knuckle and just undoing the upper ball joint but was just fighting it so did the bottom too.
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'06 H3 Shadow Green, Adventure, 6 disk Monsoon, SMA brush guard w/PIAA lights, Rocky Road extreme rocker protection, roof lights(off road), lower grill lights(off road), Helo Maxx8 Black Wheels, 35" Cooper STT, Garmin I-Que M4 to get home.
