Headers - Ordered - Discuss install and options

[pdxrealtor]

There's been a lot of talk about headers lately, but I haven't seen anyone pull the trigger or any serious talk of complete setups, installation setbacks, etc..

So I'd like to get this all in place.

I ordered the OBX with cats found here :

http://www.racingpartdepot.com/servl...-dsh-05/Detail

My first question is will I loose much by keeping the OEM muffler on the truck? I'm really not after sound, I like it quiet. I like to save money. I don't like to lose out on performance so if I have to I'll weld in a high flow muffler into the existing cat back setup. Why change the OEM pipes? Last thing I want is dual tips hanging out of the back where they obviously aren't meant to be. I like mine nice and hidden.

Any tips for installation? I've read use GM gaskets and bolts. Yes? No? What about high temp red sealant on gaskets and connection points?

Haven't looked into having these ceramic coated but have thought about it if the price is right. Thoughts?

Chip after install? Heard it's worth it. Who does them and which ones are known to be better?

Any other thoughts or advice?

[Hellz]

i wish i could give you some input, but as of yet, this is still on my wish list.

glad to see you went with long tubes instead of the shorty's.

If you have a tuner, you might be able to contact the manf. and see if they do custom tunes, as you would get the most out of the headers with a tune. cant tell you the $$ for a custom tune except for diablo tuners.besides the cost of the actual tuner, there is a guy is who/ isnt affiliated with diablo who does custom tunes. costs about 150ish. http://www.dslogredux.com/DiabLew_Tune/ if you want to read up more about it.

another company that iirc actually programs your ECM is Nelson performance. http://nelsonperformance.com/
highly recommended, and respected. unless your willing to be out of your H2 for a few days while they program it, then you will need to fork out $$$ for another PCM which i have seen cost from $250 to 500.

if you have a dyno shop around that can do AWD vehicles.. they should be able to program as well.. costs about $300 to $500.


i dont think you would run in to any issues keeping the OEM muffler and pipes except....

you might/will have to have a custom Y pipe made to connect the OBX to the OEM. i would recommend not welding if you dont have to just in case you need to change out the muffler later.

now that i think about it.. another issue you may run in to is that the OEM pipes cant get the exhaust out fast enough and it builds back pressure. the OBX might put out more exhaust and the OEM being just one pipe might not be able to keep up. i doubt this situation would really effect you, but something that my one retarded braincell brought up as i typed this.

if you are doing this yourself, please take some pics or do a brief write up. this seems straight forward to me, but i would be more interested in the tricky or the PITA parts of the install more.

[[__--MUD--__]]

Because our rides weight as much as they do, there isn't and single mod or even light combo of mods that will make any real "holy ****" noticable performance difference.

I think all the header talk is due to a new generation of used H2 owners taking over and wanting to mod...now that you can pick one up pretty reasonable. I would't spend the money on it unless there are issues w/ stock manifolds leaking or broken bolts.

I've never heard any complaints against the GM gaskets. You definately want to use good high quality header gaskets. The cheap ones will crush and expand giving you constant nightmares keeping the damn bolts tight. Believe me on this...I'm getting the gaskets swapped out on my LS1 on monday after dealing w/ that **** for the last 5 years. The shop is putting GM gaskets on it. I dont have the patience anymore to work on a f-body.

There is no chip on our rides...You are going to want a tune installed. You can get a mail order where you send out your computer to get programmed - starting out around $250. Id check out performancetrucks.net and lstech.com. Alot of good info there. Get a hold of one of the higher volume tuners, you can just tell them your mods and they most likely will already have a dead on tune for your ride.

I'd just keep what you have from cat back untill its rotted out. Again your not going to notice any performance difference.

Ceramic will look like **** after a while also, I wouldn't pay extra for it. My next set will be wrapped- cut down on engine bay heat.

Every motor I've run on stock tune w/ headers has felt like I lost alot of torque. Custom tune has always got that back.

Post pics and make sure to give your opinion on the install, performance, etc..

[pdxrealtor]

This is all great info! Exactly what I was hoping to get started.

Update- the headers shipped and it looks like they're going to be here Thursday. I was surprised as the payment processing was kind of sketchy... merchant account wouldn't take any of my cards and vendor reply to my emails was not very quick for a retail vendor. Phone wasn't answered and it took about 24 hours for response.

TO NOTE- the website I ordered from is also on EBAY. I saved 90.00 by searching high and low. One company on Google shopping had the matched price but when going to their website it was jacked up to Ebay price. When contacted they would not change their price. Really bugs me when companies do this. I reported them to Google shopping, and OBX, and today they're not showing up under search results. GOOD! They were E something or another. Started with capital E....

Another thing to note. The website I bought them from is now out of stock, but they're EBAY page is still showing one left for sale. Thought I'd point this out in case anyone of the members here who has been talking about headers decides to jump on the purchase. Might want to double check...

Now that all of that is out of the way (did you even read it all?? LOL) Let's get to discussing.

One thing that's really sticking in my mind is something MUD mentioned. No ceramic coating... OK... makes sense, it was a long shot I was going to spend the time to do it anyways. However wrapping the pipes really got my attention. Should I wrap them for heat purposes? It would also protect them..

It's funny, because I can feel even the littlest mod simply because the H2 is such a dog to begin with. Not expecting much from just the LT headers...

RE: the gaskets- wouldn't it be a good idea to put a bead of high temp red sealant on the header? I did this on all my jet ski exhausts and it worked perfect.

RE: the tune (thanks for the links- good info for the thread!) I'll have to look into the options a bit more. I like the idea of the hand held programmer and paying a bit for the program to throw on the ECU via the programmer, but I haven't priced out the programmers so that comment could be way off! I will surely be looking for a tune. Dyno tune is out.. this is a very mild mod hummer. I did dyno tunes with my past S/C and turbo cars- thousands in mods. One thing that comes to mind with the tune is when I get board in the future I think the fan mod would be something I could do improve horsepower and MPG. In reading recently there's some ECU programming that could need to be done. A side from that I can't imaging what else I'd need to adjust a program for. But that's just the thing... always expect the unexpected... right? With my personality there's a damn good chance I'll end up with a blower, and a head/cam/intake etc....

I'm really hoping the cat back (OEM) bolts right up. If not I think the shop I'll be using has a guy that's skilled enough to cut and mend the OEM setup for minor adjustments. That's the plan as of now... OEM muffler. Pipes shouldn't matter and I have no desire, as mentioned above, to get fancy tips. HELLZ, you mentioned dual tips/mufflers. Aren't there several cat back systems that are single mufflers anyways? I don't think going from one outlet to two outlets on a muffler would make any difference at all. Now.. having two mufflers, one per side, I can see helping flow. But in this case too much flow would mean less low end torque anyways. At the MOST I'll get a high flow muffler that bolts right up to the OEM cat back and is QUIET QUIET. I had a mustang and got rid of the cats all together. It freakin' screamed, but that sh*t got old on any distance of a trip. Plus that was 10 years ago. My drone/noise threshold has gone way down since then.

This is great discussion... keep opinions and advice coming.

Bolts... is going through the hassle of getting the updated GM bolts going to help with backing out issue? I guess if I'm not going to use the kits gaskets I could pick up bolts too. But what about the red gasket sealer? I hate paying for something just to buy what it lacks.

I will take pics from start to finish. My buddy whose helping me has helped me on some pretty big projects and I've always taken pics. I just keep the beers cold and flowing and it's all good.

[Hellz]

forgot all about the bolts.

i have no hard feelings towards Gm products, but if "I" was to go through this process, i would put after market bolts on. afterall, it is the original GM bolts that were snapping and causing all the butt pain.

i would invest in some good ARP bolts. something hat is proven to stand up to the heat, and stress.

[LoJac963]

Back when I had my LS2 GTO there were many threads regarding welds breaking on headers that had been wrapped. Unless the metal is extremely high quality along with the welds it has been shown that wrapping MAY cause premature failure of the headers, joints, welds, etc.

Ceramic coating is also by far FAR SUPERIOR to wrapping headers. However they have to be coated inside and out to keep the temperature within the primaries. If you do get them coated be sure to use a well respected place-excellent quality product and application should not discolor as described above. I have seen Kooks headers with thousands of miles on them on heavily modded LS2's with ceramic coating and they look just as good as the day they were coated.

Just my two cents for you to consider.

I too will be adding headers eventually to the rig. Not to jump on the mod train as mentioned but aftermarket headers with smooth primaries obvously flow better than cast iron factory manifolds.

[NJ H2]

This past Sunday I ordered the Longtube Dynatech SuperMAXX SS Headers Part# 715-84110. Got a pretty smoking Deal from Auto Anything:
Regular Price: $1095.95
Discount Price: $799.99
Coupon 15% Off = $120.00
Paid $679.99 w/Free shipping!



These bolt up to my OEM exhaust/cats. I'm not coating w/ceramic inside or out nor am I wrapping them. As you see them is how I am installing. Except I did get the new upgraded botls. I ordered these with the advice from Garry:
M8-1.25 x 30mm DIN 6921 Class Class 90 Yellow Zinc Serrated Flange Bolt
From Fastenal:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...1115929&ucst=t
Seems to be too many possible issues w/extras.
They should be here in about a week. I'll post up after the install! I'm psyched!!