Was out with the Dealer outing this last Saturday and was climbing a nice hill and sure enough the front end started bouncing (it seems to bounce more that the unlifted stock ones?)as my wife was slowly moving to the top. The spotter stopped us and said the driver side had bent. Edmark Hummer is the dealer and they are great. The service manager was with our group again and he ran all the way back in to the dealer and got another tie rod and came back and replaced the busted one.
My question is that we are close to getting rid of the H2 if we can't feel like we can go out and do some mild playing without feeling safe in doing so. We are looking for some heavy duty tie rods to try first. Does any one know if the 1-ton GMC tie rods fit? If they do, are they bigger? I own a 2001 1-ton but didn't get a chance to go look at it at home yet. I know others on here have gone with after market tie rods, but I can't find a name anywhere for the name of the brands out there. Help.

Was out with the Dealer outing this last Saturday and was climbing a nice hill and sure enough the front end started bouncing (it seems to bounce more that the unlifted stock ones?)as my wife was slowly moving to the top. The spotter stopped us and said the driver side had bent. Edmark Hummer is the dealer and they are great. The service manager was with our group again and he ran all the way back in to the dealer and got another tie rod and came back and replaced the busted one.
My question is that we are close to getting rid of the H2 if we can't feel like we can go out and do some mild playing without feeling safe in doing so. We are looking for some heavy duty tie rods to try first. Does any one know if the 1-ton GMC tie rods fit? If they do, are they bigger? I own a 2001 1-ton but didn't get a chance to go look at it at home yet. I know others on here have gone with after market tie rods, but I can't find a name anywhere for the name of the brands out there. Help.

The HD2500 and 3500 use same tierods.
I know a guy who makes SS sleeves that go over the rods to increase strength.
PM me and I'll find his info.

The HD2500 and 3500 use same tierods.
I know a guy who makes SS sleeves that go over the rods to increase strength.
PM me and I'll find his info.

try this for tie rods
http://www.fly-n-hi.com/FST/steering.htm

try this for tie rods
http://www.fly-n-hi.com/FST/steering.htm

HummerLV - I saw pictures of the Fly-N-Hi ones. They are bigger but aluminum. Have you had any experiance with them?

Duramax Tim - SS sleeve huh? I'll send you an e-mail. By the way, interesting that we have similar rigs. We have a 2001 Chevy D/A CC SLT LB too. Don't you post on the "Diesel Page" too?

HummerLV - I saw pictures of the Fly-N-Hi ones. They are bigger but aluminum. Have you had any experiance with them?

Duramax Tim - SS sleeve huh? I'll send you an e-mail. By the way, interesting that we have similar rigs. We have a 2001 Chevy D/A CC SLT LB too. Don't you post on the "Diesel Page" too?

no first hand experience, but have asked them to get me more info on them, will post any new info as it comes in.

no first hand experience, but have asked them to get me more info on them, will post any new info as it comes in.

BD...
RubberDuck is now making a heavy duty tie-rod for the H2. Although I have not had a chance to try them out personally, he is well known in the H1/H2 arena for custom offraoding parts. Many of us have his undercarriage protection.

www.rubberduck4x4.com

BD...
RubberDuck is now making a heavy duty tie-rod for the H2. Although I have not had a chance to try them out personally, he is well known in the H1/H2 arena for custom offraoding parts. Many of us have his undercarriage protection.

www.rubberduck4x4.com

Here is another link
http://www.unlimitedoffroad.com/

Here is another link
http://www.unlimitedoffroad.com/

Shannon - Rubber Duck's site doesn't open. Can't see their stuff. I've looked at your rig and their site in the past. Seems like nice stuff

kdio - $710 And $100 to unscrew the old ones off and screw theirs on. Man I hate it when folks charge so much more just because it's for an H2. I guess they think H2 owners got what we have by being dumb and spending money like we haven't earned it.

Shannon - Rubber Duck's site doesn't open. Can't see their stuff. I've looked at your rig and their site in the past. Seems like nice stuff

kdio - $710 And $100 to unscrew the old ones off and screw theirs on. Man I hate it when folks charge so much more just because it's for an H2. I guess they think H2 owners got what we have by being dumb and spending money like we haven't earned it.

• May 2004•


FST (Fabrication Suspension Technology) GM steering upgrade

Press Release
• Chevy and GMC 4x4 •

Immediate Release

FST (Fabrication Suspension Technology) has developed a steering upgrade for GM models that are equipped with inner socket and tie rod style steering. It's easily installed using factory geometry points. Not only does it offer the proven extreme heavy duty durability of ¾" 4130 chrome-moly heim joints and 7075 aircraft aluminum, it has an industrial look as well.

This upgrade heim joint steering kit is available for the following vehicles:

GM HD 1999 - current

GM H2 Hummer 2002 - current

GM Quad Steer Rear 2003 - current

GM Quad Steer Front 2003 - current

GM ¾ ton 1999 - current

GM 1 ton 1999 - current

GM 1 ton dual 1999 - current

GM Avalanche ¾ ton 2003 - current

GM Avalanche ½ ton 2002 - current

GM ½ ton 1999 - current

½ ton Yukon 1999 - current

¾ ton Yukon 1999 - current

½ ton Yukon XLT 1999 - current

¾ ton Yukon XLT 1999 - current


Contact Information:

FST (Fabrication Suspension Technology)
4401 W. Jefferson Phoenix, AZ 85043 602-484-7127.
www.fstmotorsports.com

• May 2004•


FST (Fabrication Suspension Technology) GM steering upgrade

Press Release
• Chevy and GMC 4x4 •

Immediate Release

FST (Fabrication Suspension Technology) has developed a steering upgrade for GM models that are equipped with inner socket and tie rod style steering. It's easily installed using factory geometry points. Not only does it offer the proven extreme heavy duty durability of ¾" 4130 chrome-moly heim joints and 7075 aircraft aluminum, it has an industrial look as well.

This upgrade heim joint steering kit is available for the following vehicles:

GM HD 1999 - current

GM H2 Hummer 2002 - current

GM Quad Steer Rear 2003 - current

GM Quad Steer Front 2003 - current

GM ¾ ton 1999 - current

GM 1 ton 1999 - current

GM 1 ton dual 1999 - current

GM Avalanche ¾ ton 2003 - current

GM Avalanche ½ ton 2002 - current

GM ½ ton 1999 - current

½ ton Yukon 1999 - current

¾ ton Yukon 1999 - current

½ ton Yukon XLT 1999 - current

¾ ton Yukon XLT 1999 - current


Contact Information:

FST (Fabrication Suspension Technology)
4401 W. Jefferson Phoenix, AZ 85043 602-484-7127.
www.fstmotorsports.com

photos

photos

photo2

photo2

info off " The Aluminum Association, Inc" website.

Aluminum plate is used in the manufacture of aircraft and for fuel tanks in spacecraft. An airframe of a modern commercial transport aircraft is 80 percent by weight (MNAB Report #476, "New Materials for Next Generation Aircraft"). Structural components of current United States Navy aircraft are made of fabricated wrought aluminum (forged, machined, and assembled parts). There are efforts underway to persuade the Navy to adopt aluminum casting technology which offers lower manufacturing cost, the ability to form complex shapes, and the flexibility to incorporate innovative design concepts.

Aircraft manufacturers use high-strength alloys (principally alloy 7075) to strengthen aluminum aircraft structures. Alloy 7075 has zinc and copper added for ultimate strength, but because of the copper it is very difficult to weld. It anodizes beautifully. 7075 has the best machinability and results in the finest finish.

http://www.aluminum.org/Content/Navi...t/Aircraft.htm

I think it would be strong enough for our applications.

info off " The Aluminum Association, Inc" website.

Aluminum plate is used in the manufacture of aircraft and for fuel tanks in spacecraft. An airframe of a modern commercial transport aircraft is 80 percent by weight (MNAB Report #476, "New Materials for Next Generation Aircraft"). Structural components of current United States Navy aircraft are made of fabricated wrought aluminum (forged, machined, and assembled parts). There are efforts underway to persuade the Navy to adopt aluminum casting technology which offers lower manufacturing cost, the ability to form complex shapes, and the flexibility to incorporate innovative design concepts.

Aircraft manufacturers use high-strength alloys (principally alloy 7075) to strengthen aluminum aircraft structures. Alloy 7075 has zinc and copper added for ultimate strength, but because of the copper it is very difficult to weld. It anodizes beautifully. 7075 has the best machinability and results in the finest finish.

http://www.aluminum.org/Content/Navi...t/Aircraft.htm

I think it would be strong enough for our applications.

Aluminum alloys would be a much better material for a tie rod. First the strength is not an issue, they can be made as strong as needed. Secondly and more importantly they would be able to absorb more abuse. Aluminum gives more that steel and can "flex" some without distortion. It just costs much more to fabricate aluminum parts compared to steel.

Aluminum alloys would be a much better material for a tie rod. First the strength is not an issue, they can be made as strong as needed. Secondly and more importantly they would be able to absorb more abuse. Aluminum gives more that steel and can "flex" some without distortion. It just costs much more to fabricate aluminum parts compared to steel.

Most of the information that I have seen on that type of solution is that the heim joints don't hold up well for street use. I saw a 6"
lifted H2 at windrock that was supercharged and was running 38.5" boggers. Last year he broke four tie rods on one hill and this year he had a similar setup to the ones you have pictured from supposedly SMA. But I was told that after the event his heim joints were worn out.

I will be trying out another set of the Rubber Duck 4x4 tie rods this next week at Kinsalow and will let you know how things work out.

Most of the information that I have seen on that type of solution is that the heim joints don't hold up well for street use. I saw a 6"
lifted H2 at windrock that was supercharged and was running 38.5" boggers. Last year he broke four tie rods on one hill and this year he had a similar setup to the ones you have pictured from supposedly SMA. But I was told that after the event his heim joints were worn out.

I will be trying out another set of the Rubber Duck 4x4 tie rods this next week at Kinsalow and will let you know how things work out.

Thanks for all the good info. More than I have seen for the H2 on here. However, we may very likely trade back in our H2 afterall. We will be losing money but we feel that we should not be having to replace parts like the tie rods to bring up the quality of a rig like this. The tie rods are an obvious weak point and dispite the fact we have a mild lift we should not be having to improve the parts. We have been building rigs for over 20 years and this is the first time this has happened. Too bad, we really like the H2 otherwise, but we bought it to use it as advertised, not to commute in. We don't feel safe going out on even a mild trail without something else breaking. Good luck to you all who use your rigs.

Thanks for all the good info. More than I have seen for the H2 on here. However, we may very likely trade back in our H2 afterall. We will be losing money but we feel that we should not be having to replace parts like the tie rods to bring up the quality of a rig like this. The tie rods are an obvious weak point and dispite the fact we have a mild lift we should not be having to improve the parts. We have been building rigs for over 20 years and this is the first time this has happened. Too bad, we really like the H2 otherwise, but we bought it to use it as advertised, not to commute in. We don't feel safe going out on even a mild trail without something else breaking. Good luck to you all who use your rigs.

Yes you're totally right. You'd better return the vehicle immediately. God forbid you have to replace a tie rod. Thats reason enough to take a 15-20K loss.

You might try the tie rod replacement before you throw in the towel.

What else have you broken that has made you so skittish?

Yes you're totally right. You'd better return the vehicle immediately. God forbid you have to replace a tie rod. Thats reason enough to take a 15-20K loss.

You might try the tie rod replacement before you throw in the towel.

What else have you broken that has made you so skittish?

you also got to think that mabey
the tie rod breaks so another more
important part does not.gm has done
that in the past.00 cavaliers wiper
motors have a crank arm on it,if you
turn it on and the blade are frozen to
the windshield the crank arm breaks
instead of the motor.

you also got to think that mabey
the tie rod breaks so another more
important part does not.gm has done
that in the past.00 cavaliers wiper
motors have a crank arm on it,if you
turn it on and the blade are frozen to
the windshield the crank arm breaks
instead of the motor.

Longhorn-
The first time out after we bought it we were climbing a similar hill to the one on the Hummer outing last Saturday along with the Land Cruiser club we belonged to. We made a couple of attempts to get through a slippery spot and decided to give it one more try. We heard a bang and found ourselves with the front differential literally busted in half, the transfer case was toast, the passenger side tie rod was bent in half and the rear end had parts sticking out of the rear cover. This was with the rig completely stock. (Did I mention that none of the other rigs doing the same thing broke during the trip?). The first outing with the dealer Hummer Happening we were going down the same wash board road as the other dozen H2's and suddenly found the steering wheel turned to the left . We pulled over to find both front ball joints at the "A" arms had come completely out of the sockets they were pressed into. We were lucky and found a local guy who had a welder to tack the ball joints on so we could get back to the dealer (Did I mention that we were the only ones who broke anything that day?). It now had the lift on it but the service manager decided it was because of the first breakage that weakened the ball joints. This was the third time going out trail riding with our rig. Then the forth time out, sure enough, for the third time doing what every other rig was doing, we bent the wimpy tie rod on our $60K "Like Nothing Else" rig. My first thought were that folks on here have been through this a LOT and maybe would know of some good "fixes" for this tie rod issue. Understand that all of these breakages happened while doing mild, ordinary 4x4ing. The more I thought about it the more upset I got thinking that I need to consider paying somebody like Fly-n-hi $710 for a couple of tie rods to fix what shouldn't need fixing. I have the same parts and lift on my 1-ton dually which has been through a lot more with no problems. What can I expect if I go out by myself and wife camping and come up to a little hill I need to climb?

We were really hoping we could make it on just one outing without busting something else. I know this forum will blast us for saying all this, and believe me I hate coming to this conclusion, but I don't feel the H2 is what it is advertised to be. It might be fine for those who like fixing broken parts all the time or for those of you who never see the dirt, but I need something I can depend on. Damn, I hate getting rid of it, but we want to USE it.

partsguy -
A windshield wiper breaking out in the middle of nowhere isn't exactly the same as a busted tie rod. I understand what you are saying about the tie rod going before another more important part does, but these tie rods are bending WAY to quickly. It isn't just the tie rod, I am afraid of what's next.

Sorry for being long winded. We may change our minds again before the hour ends but I'm frustrated.

Longhorn-
The first time out after we bought it we were climbing a similar hill to the one on the Hummer outing last Saturday along with the Land Cruiser club we belonged to. We made a couple of attempts to get through a slippery spot and decided to give it one more try. We heard a bang and found ourselves with the front differential literally busted in half, the transfer case was toast, the passenger side tie rod was bent in half and the rear end had parts sticking out of the rear cover. This was with the rig completely stock. (Did I mention that none of the other rigs doing the same thing broke during the trip?). The first outing with the dealer Hummer Happening we were going down the same wash board road as the other dozen H2's and suddenly found the steering wheel turned to the left . We pulled over to find both front ball joints at the "A" arms had come completely out of the sockets they were pressed into. We were lucky and found a local guy who had a welder to tack the ball joints on so we could get back to the dealer (Did I mention that we were the only ones who broke anything that day?). It now had the lift on it but the service manager decided it was because of the first breakage that weakened the ball joints. This was the third time going out trail riding with our rig. Then the forth time out, sure enough, for the third time doing what every other rig was doing, we bent the wimpy tie rod on our $60K "Like Nothing Else" rig. My first thought were that folks on here have been through this a LOT and maybe would know of some good "fixes" for this tie rod issue. Understand that all of these breakages happened while doing mild, ordinary 4x4ing. The more I thought about it the more upset I got thinking that I need to consider paying somebody like Fly-n-hi $710 for a couple of tie rods to fix what shouldn't need fixing. I have the same parts and lift on my 1-ton dually which has been through a lot more with no problems. What can I expect if I go out by myself and wife camping and come up to a little hill I need to climb?

We were really hoping we could make it on just one outing without busting something else. I know this forum will blast us for saying all this, and believe me I hate coming to this conclusion, but I don't feel the H2 is what it is advertised to be. It might be fine for those who like fixing broken parts all the time or for those of you who never see the dirt, but I need something I can depend on. Damn, I hate getting rid of it, but we want to USE it.

partsguy -
A windshield wiper breaking out in the middle of nowhere isn't exactly the same as a busted tie rod. I understand what you are saying about the tie rod going before another more important part does, but these tie rods are bending WAY to quickly. It isn't just the tie rod, I am afraid of what's next.

Sorry for being long winded. We may change our minds again before the hour ends but I'm frustrated.

fly-n-hi kit
$950.00 + shipping- tie rod kit
$1650.00+ shipping- tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm.

fly-n-hi kit
$950.00 + shipping- tie rod kit
$1650.00+ shipping- tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm.

I'm honestly sorry you've had so much trouble. I've been out countless times and have yet to have any serious failures. For that matter, I have yet to witness any failures in person.

Maybe you got a lemon? Maybe the lift is to blame? Maybe you have a heavy right foot? Perhaps you are the worst H2 pilot ever ?

It just sounds like there are other forces at play here. I would have some very direct communication with my dealer about these issues if I were you. I hope you decide to hold on to your truck. What would you replace it with?

I'm honestly sorry you've had so much trouble. I've been out countless times and have yet to have any serious failures. For that matter, I have yet to witness any failures in person.

Maybe you got a lemon? Maybe the lift is to blame? Maybe you have a heavy right foot? Perhaps you are the worst H2 pilot ever ?

It just sounds like there are other forces at play here. I would have some very direct communication with my dealer about these issues if I were you. I hope you decide to hold on to your truck. What would you replace it with?