hopefully with all you experts in here, i can get some answers. I'm trying to install two temperature gauges, oil temp, and trans temp. does anyone have knowledege of where the ports are for the 1/8th probes.... my instructions don't show this.........

I have not installed any aftermaket gauges in the hummer YET but have installed gauges in numerous other vehicles. You are going to have to drill and tap the holes yourself. This is at least for the oil temp. I have done water, oil, exhaust and boost and besides the boost I had to drill and tap the holes. You have to be extremely careful when doing this. Never done tranny so can't help you there.

As far as placement for the oil temp. Pick a location on the side of the pan where you are going to have enough cable to run to the gauge. Then drain the oil, remove the pan and do all of the drilling. Do not leave the pan on and try it cause you are going to need to clean the shavings out. Then tap the hole, reinstall the pan, run the cables and you should be good. Either pick up oil drain pan gaskets or some orange rtv gasket maker to use. If you are not comfortable doing this take it to a shop and have them do it. Hope this helps.

Russ

Here is a pic of the gauges install.......

For the trans temp, can't you splice into the line going to the trans cooler? Go to your local hardware store, in the brass fittings section, and buy the appropriate "T" fitting, and two barb fittings. Splice the line going TO the cooler and slide each end over the barb fitting and place the probe into the T. Could probably do the same if there is an external oil cooler (sorry, new to Hummer's, but this is what I've done in the past for race cars).

Colby

Workin,

Where'd you score the gauge pod? Much nicer than the $300 piece from Lingenfelter that puts it behind the steering wheel!

YOU CAN GET THEM HERE..http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Speed...spagenameZWDVW It's a whole 39.00 for the pod, and fits perfect.........

well phil, i need more acurate gauges, to closely moniter, while pulling my travel trailer. thanks

I would also through in an exhaust temp gauge as well. I like having an exhaust temp gauge because I have identified engine troubles in my other vehicles from monitoring this. It tipped me off even before any of the idiots lights came a flashing.

I have a nice Blitz Black light carbon fiber face exhaust temp gauge I am going to toss in the truck. I am just trying to determine if I am going to do it now or wait til I put a custom exhuast in. I am thinking of waiting til I get the new one and do the drilling and tapping before I install the exhuast on the truck.

While taking the temp from the pan will give you a better temp reading of the overall trans temp, you will see the trans temp rise faster in the cooler line. The cooler line comes fron the torque converter goes through the coolers and returns to the trans as lube oil. If you check the temp between converter and cooler you will see 300F. in less than a minute when the converter starts to stall. It will give a better indication of how hard you are working the trans sooner than wiating for the sump temp to rise. The converter is the source of most of heat when its not in lockup.

Shifting out of lockup is the first downshift you feel when you are in overdrive (4). When it shifts out of lockup you will see about a 400RPM rise @70mph. This means you are turning the pump side(drive side) of the converter 400RPM faster than the turbine (driven side). Its shearing the oil and will get hot pretty quick.

Hey Hummie2 and PhilD, This is an interesting point. Maybe a dumb question, but what if you went into tow mode (on grades, etc.) wouldn't that decrease the trans temp?

Workin,

Much appreciated...

That's just it... I don't trust a stock gm gauge. something that only has 100 & 300 printed, just doesn't tell me much. my service tech at hummer, is going to help me with this.they say the h2 has the largest stock trany cooler from gm installed already. he reccommended lube gaurd to help keep temps down.
my trailer weight is between 7400 &7800 lbs, depending on what i'm packing... the tech, and am general has told me this is no problem for the h2, as they were purposly underated tow wise....but i surely dont wont to void a warranty, by not watching what the engine and trans are up to...

Anytime.......................

Anything you can do to drop the trans temp will extend its life. I have installed a larger cooler in my truck and I know Phil has too. It makes a noticeable difference in both the transmission and coolant temps. I got mine from NAPA, its the largest Hayden-Rapid Cool they had listed in their cat. Looks just like the stock cooler except its larger. I was able to mount it in place of the stock cooler with a slight mod to the stock brackets. It has double the surface area and 3X as many tubes as stock. Also considering adding an external spin-on filter in the cooler line too.

The torque converter IS the pump for the cooler Phil. Oil flows from the trans pump to the converter into the pump section fins of the converter. The oil that is thrown off the pump fins hits the turbine fins and starts it to turning driving the input shaft of the trans. Oil that exhausts the turbine hits the stator assy. and is redirected back into the pump section gaining velocity and giving torque multiplication at stall.The stator has a oneway sprag clutch that allows it to turn with the pump & turbine once the turbine gets upto speed with the pump as it is nolonger necessary and it would impede the flow of oil at that speed. Once the both sections of the converter near the same speed the lockup clutch can engage and mechanically lock both sections togather making the converter 100% efficient.

Its when the lockup clutch disengages under load and the converter starts to stall to some degree (about 400rpm @ 70mph in this case) that the oil is sheared and generates all of the heat.

Sounds complicated as hell, but is really pretty simple. Think of the converter assy. as 2 box fans sitting face to face. One plugged in and running (pump) the other not running (turbine). After a while the fan that is not running starts to turn also because of the air that blows across its fan blades.