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Thank you very much for your response and the diagram, it will be very helpful.
I noticed that you now have your lights triggered by a switch. Is there a way to combine both of these approaches so that I can use my current switch to turn off the lights so that they do not come on with my brights if I so choose.
I realize that this will prevent me from turning them on with out my bright lights being on but that should not be an issue.
Any thoughts that you have would be appreciated.
Thanks,
David
Black H2
Thanks,
David
Black 03 H2
Green 97.5 H1 Wagon
Be very cautious using these - although many installers use them - they are a quick and dirty means of wiring accessories and can do damage to the wire you splice into - they sometimes leave only a few strands of the wire intact leading to failure down the road. Wiring from a fuse tap is preferable. If you must connect somewhere other than the fuse box then splice and solder the wire properly and cover with heat shrink tubing.
I agree completely about the wire taps. In my opinion, there really is no substitute, quality-wise, for an old-fashioned splice, solder and heat shrink connection.
You get what you pay for? A quality electrical connection is not something to take lightly. I've seen what electrical fires do to cars and trucks and it ain't pretty.
Nor are intermittent electrical problems caused by loose fuses, or wires that broke after having the quickie wire taps used on them and tracking these faults down later can be a real nightmare.
Cutting, splicing, soldering and then using heat shrink tubing is a real pain --- but is the only "right" way to make splices, in my opinion...
Ed
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