Killer Ditch in Waiparous Takes out H2 CV's.

[MDimitri]

Originally Posted by DRTYFN

Just tell us there's no video that's going to end up all over the internet.

No worries...no vids were taken during this pre-run, just stills. I can only imagine what Dennis will be saying when he reads this...

[DennisAJC]

Originally Posted by MDimitri

No worries...no vids were taken during this pre-run, just stills. I can only imagine what Dennis will be saying when he reads this...

You done well my son.

Scarey aboot those loose lugs.

[MDimitri]

Originally Posted by DennisAJC

You done well my son.

Scarey aboot those loose lugs.

Absolutely!

[KenP]

What year is your truck? HUMMER should have covered that as they did the H3's in Moab. Including the tows to Salt Lake City. That kind of pisses me off.

BTW, we had our CV replaced in Moab for a little over $200, TOTAL.

[NEOCON1]

Originally Posted by KenP

What year is your truck? HUMMER should have covered that as they did the H3's in Moab. Including the tows to Salt Lake City. That kind of pisses me off.

BTW, we had our CV replaced in Moab for a little over $200, TOTAL.

he has to be out of warranty .

[MDimitri]

Originally Posted by NEOCON1

he has to be out of warranty .

You bet I'm out of warranty, but there is no way GM would have covered this in the first place! It's kinda hard to hide it from em when the truck is all covered in muck!

[westhillsat]

Sorry to hear about your truck

Neo's H3 broke the front gear differential and I believe a rear half shaft. This while we were in Moab, Utah. It was flat bedded to the closest dealer.

All was covered under warranty.

[MDimitri]

Originally Posted by PhilD

I carry two complete new half shaft assemblies, they are $94 each. They are Cardone Select (not Cardone A1 refurbs), brand new, and cheap, but good insurance to carry on the trail. Took 60 minutes for Seth and myself to change one the first time, would take less now.

When mine have blown, it's always been the outer cage that gives, usually with a loud crack. You just remove the inboard bolts, cut the out board boot, and pull it out. Lock the t-case and you can continue in 2WD, or find a good place to swap in a new one. Bet you could do it in less than 30 minutes with a bit of practice.

Thats the ones I just ordered from the Auto Parts Giant; CARDONE SELECT Part # 66-1325, Brand New, NOT RM'd. I ordered 2 of them and including air freight they came out to: $365.00 CDN. Damn good price!

[NEOCON1]

its that canadian play money thing again sorry to hear about your misfortune must be the air up there or something

[Hummie2]

Originally Posted by PhilD

When mine have blown, it's always been the outer cage that gives, usually with a loud crack. You just remove the inboard bolts, cut the out board boot, and pull it out. Lock the t-case and you can continue in 2WD,

Phil - SAVE THOSE OUTER ENDS IF YOU STILL HAVE THEM!

Thats a good point for anyone that pulls a front halfshaft loose from the hub and tries to drive the truck. Be sure to leave the outer shaft end in the hub with the nut still in place to hold the wheel bearing/seal assy. togather. I carry two 1"X5" bolts with nuts and some large flat washers for that purpose. I can stick the bolts through the center of the hub to retain the bearing if I pull the halfshafts.

You can drive the truck home with a blown frontend by pulling both halfshafts and the front driveshaft then put the T-case in 4high lock effectively making it a 2WD. However the hub/bearing assy may seperate causing the disc brake to bind up or worse yet the wheel leave the truck if there isn't some positive means to hold the bearings & seal all in place.

Hopefully we won't need all dem halfshafts @ X-Rocks!