Prototype UCP

[bjc]

Originally Posted by Sewie

You might also want to consider another cross brace in the larger area if possible.

I bent the sh*t out of mine this weekend so I'm curious to see how this works for you. The added clearance would have been nice, but that also means it's closer to the t-case, driveline, etc. if it does bend.

It looks like the H3's cross-member will serve as an additional brace in the large area. I'm not sure it will matter much if she's using 1/4" steel -- that will be very tough to bend. But then again, HI seems good at breaking things.

Nice job. Keep the pictures coming.

[HIHUMMER]

[quote=bjc]It looks like the H3's cross-member will serve as an additional brace in the large area.[quote]

Your right on bjc.

As for mounting, there is an angle iron brace welded to the back subframe between the transfer case and the fuel tank which will have 4 holes drilled into it. In the front there is a L-shaped angle that was welded to the subframe underneath the engine (3rd pic). There will be 2 mounting holes drilled into the angle. Mounted w/ 3/8th grade 8 bolts. That's it in a nutshell.

I'm looking forward to attempting to break it.

[Mike B]

Looks good HI. The only thing that could cause you some problems on the trail would be the bolt heads sticking out beyond the UCP. If those can be recessed, then you stand a better chance of them not catching and shearing off.

[HIHUMMER]

Originally Posted by Mike B

Looks good HI. The only thing that could cause you some problems on the trail would be the bolt heads sticking out beyond the UCP. If those can be recessed, then you stand a better chance of them not catching and shearing off.

Hrmmm...good point. Hopefully they will be pretty flush and won't pose a problem. Thanks...

[f5fstop]

Looks good BUT...
Make sure it can be removed easily, or if in the future any trans work needs to be done, it can be removed easily or the dealer will charge you for the extra time.

As for braces under the engine, you have to remember crash worthiness. GM has to test and certify, you don't. But if ever in a massive front end collision, you want the engine to go DOWN under the passenger compartment, and if heavy bracing stops it, it will go back, into the passenger compartment and can trap the occupants, as well as hurt like hell.
Just some cautions on the install. I would hate to see anyone get hurt due to an extreme duty underbody protection kit.

[HIHUMMER]

See...all good ideas...this is what this forum is about.

It's only 6 heavy duty bolts holding in up...heavy as hell, but not impossible to remove. Perhaps for safety reasons as F5 mentioned, it might be worth removing it when I'm not wheeling.

[Ipedog]

Originally Posted by HIHUMMER

See...all good ideas...this is what this forum is about.

It's only 6 heavy duty bolts holding in up...heavy as hell, but not impossible to remove. Perhaps for safety reasons as F5 mentioned, it might be worth removing it when I'm not wheeling.

Probably wouldn't hurt in the gas mileage department too.

[HummBebe]

Excellent point...

[evldave]

Originally Posted by Mike B

Looks good HI. The only thing that could cause you some problems on the trail would be the bolt heads sticking out beyond the UCP. If those can be recessed, then you stand a better chance of them not catching and shearing off.

You can get panhead bolts in Grade 8, then use a tiny hole saw into the plate to countersink. The slopes on the side of the panheads should allow most rocks to slide over w/out ripping the head off, plus since they are allen heads, you won't have to worry too much about being able to get them out later. If you countersink them just up to the edge of the side lip on the bolt (like maybe 1/16"), I'd be surpised if you ever shear them off and I doubt it would affect the strength of the plate enough to matter.

Is the support bracing 1"x.0125"? It's hard to tell from the pictures. I'm curious as I'll eventually be building one of my own and want to steal all your ideas

[HIHUMMER]

the frame is made of 1.5" square tubing that is an 1/8" thick. But sshh....don't tell anyone.

[evldave]

Originally Posted by HIHUMMER

the frame is made of 1.5" square tubing that is an 1/8" thick. But sshh....don't tell anyone.

Just an fyi on that tubing. I have the exact same thing for my roof rack crossbars. The spread between supports across the rails is ~47". The bottom of the crossrail sits ~3/8" off the top of the roof. With me standing on the rack, jumping on the rails, they won't deflect to hit the roof, but they do deflect, up to about 1/4". They also have center rails running front to back, and so truly aren't even a full open spread.

My point? You may have issues with deflection when you come down on a rock. I'm sure the combination of 1/4" plate + the tubing will be beefy, but you might want to jack the truck up using the plate and maybe a small piece of tubing to localize the lift point (just be careful, you might even be able to find the true weight center and jack the whole truck up off the ground!). See if the plate deflects, because you don't want to find it's not beefy enough on the trail .

[HIHUMMER]

Thanks evldave...I might be PMing you if I come across any issues.