Ran into another H3 with my problem yesterday ...

[f5fstop]

Only thing I know is 90 percent of what people call warped rotors is really pad residue on the rotor. Turning does fix the problem. Pretty darn hard to warp a large rotor like the ones on the front, and the back brakes do so little on normal stopping that can't understand how they get overheated enough to warp.
Have not heard anything, and I have 17K and no brake problems or noises. In fact, the only noise I have is behind the new NAV system, and I would bet it is the adapter vibrating.
If we are having problems with rears heating up and warping, I would have the dealer make sure the park brake is adjusted correctly after the brakes are repaired. If out of adjustment, the brakes will be too tight, apply too much pressure to the rotor and overheat the rotor (and the pads).
I will add that I will not use factory pads when I change the brakes (if I keep it that long ). Factory pads SUCK, since they cannot use asbestos.
So, the pads are made with other organic materials that tend to cause them to wear too fast, and tend to leave residue on the rotors when heated up (mountain driving is good for this).
I'm hoping someone comes out with a low dust, kevlar pad for the H3 before I have to change; if I have to change.

[fourfourto]

F5 Doesnt the e brake have a seperate pad (scrub brake).
My brother and I noticed it on my prevous brake inspection.

The e brake seems good,I beleve it should be tighter it goes down far to grab.
Im going to bring it in on tuesday.

[f5fstop]

got me; I forgot, still thinking old days. I'll do some checking tomorrow on brakes.

[fourfourto]

F5 we didnt remove the wheel but my brother said the placement of the cable on the backing plate it seams theres a scrub brake.
If you could confirm this that would be great.

I made an appointment for tuesday 9am,sevice manager said no problem replacing brakes and rotors in the back if its the same problem,He also said they wouldnt turn down the rotors a second time.
SM said if I will get a loaner if needed.
They treat me good over at ramp hummer they always give me a loaner

[Hmmm2]

Originally Posted by fourfourto

I made an appointment for tuesday 9am,sevice manager said no problem replacing brakes and rotors in the back if its the same problem,He also said they wouldnt turn down the rotors a second time.
SM said if I will get a loaner if needed.
They treat me good over at ramp hummer they always give me a loaner

You HAVE been lucky in that regard, fourfourto. Your dealer seems to step up to the plate and always tells you they'll replace parts. I have to wonder if dealers here get 'points' for not replacing warranty parts.() It would be awesome to hear a Serv. Mgr. just come and say, "Yeah, we're gonna replace your rotors instead of turning them .. new pads and all, ESPECIALLY since you've been having nothing but problems with them." Uh-huh.

[RubHer Yellow Ducky]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

got me; I forgot, still thinking old days. I'll do some checking tomorrow on brakes.

F5,

Any word about defects etc on the brakes???

RYD

[fourfourto]

The service guy did mention something about a notice about the brakes.He didnt show me anything .

They wrote this on work order.
C/S when braking hard there is a grinding noise.Verifed concern. Norn=mal condition for vehicle when braking hard.

I told them it does it on normal braking going down hill with stopping at the bottom without feathering of brake.It doesnt have to be a hard brake.

Ill wait till it gets worse and will go with them for a ride and say YEH ! thats Normal! Yeh Right !. and if I have trouble with them doing a repair I will insist on a hummer rep. I will give it a few weeks and see what happens.

Anyone with any info from gm for the H3 for brakes please list them. thanks in advance.

[ChevyHighPerformance]

Originally Posted by fourfourto

F5 Doesnt the e brake have a seperate pad (scrub brake).
My brother and I noticed it on my prevous brake inspection.

The e brake seems good,I beleve it should be tighter it goes down far to grab.
Im going to bring it in on tuesday.

There is a separate brake shoe assembly that grabs for parking. The rear rotors are like a hat and the inside of the hat is a mini-drum brake. When you press down on the parking brake the shoes are cammed out and make contact with the drum.

I was wondering if the parking brake is releasing fully. That's why I suggested to pull on the parking brake cable to make sure the cable isn't sticking in its conduit. The foot petal may come back up fully but the cable may not be completely releasing. I know for fact that there have been H3's in to get the parking brake cable replaced and that the 2007's have a new design. You never mentioned that the brakes are grabbing or pulsing when stopping nor did you mention any smell or unusually high rear temperatures. My interpretation (which I could be wrong) is that the sound is a nuisance sound.

[fourfourto]

is that the sound is a nuisance sound.

No its a grinding sound definatly not normal.
Parking brake seems fine not to tight(If it was it would have worn down by now)Also it grabs low,probobly needs tightened .
Last time I checked the temp of rotor at my brothers shop and they were normal.

[ChevyHighPerformance]

Originally Posted by fourfourto

is that the sound is a nuisance sound.

No its a grinding sound definatly not normal.
Parking brake seems fine not to tight(If it was it would have worn down by now)Also it grabs low,probobly needs tightened .
Last time I checked the temp of rotor at my brothers shop and they were normal.

I don't think the sound is normal either - I was trying to get at if there are other issues you can feel versus just hear. The fact that you mentioned that the parking brake grabs low is a sign to me that the parking brake cable is not moving freely in its guide (not releasing properly), the parking brake is not adjusted properly, or the parking brake shoes are worn. Did you try what I suggested - tugging hard on the parking brake cable underneath the driver's side. It will feel tight to start with. If you tug on it and it frees up, you have a parking brake cable problem.

[Hmmm2]

Originally Posted by ChevyHighPerformance

I don't think the sound is normal either - I was trying to get at if there are other issues you can feel versus just hear.

Fourfourto, do you feel a slight sensation in the brake pedal JUST as you come to a complete stop and JUST as you are hearing that grind sound? When I would hear the grind in the rear right, I'd also feel 'something' in the brake pedal. Almost as if I could feel the 'grind' in the rear brake. Chevy High Performance thoughts sound right on, too. But, you and I had the same grind problem months back .. so I'm tending to think warped rotor. I'm anxious to hear what they find out for you.

[fourfourto]

I'd also feel 'something' in the brake pedal. Almost as if I could feel the 'grind' in the rear brake.

X2 thats they way it is now and was then.

Hopefully fixed by tommorow afternoon.

[LAREDO TEXAS]

I had the same problem, I was about to order new brakes, I took it to a local shop and they just apply a cleaner to the rotors and rotate the tires.. done deal this was done on Sunday and no noice until today.

[Michael1]

Originally Posted by f5fstop

Only thing I know is 90 percent of what people call warped rotors is really pad residue on the rotor. Turning does fix the problem. Pretty darn hard to warp a large rotor like the ones on the front, and the back brakes do so little on normal stopping that can't understand how they get overheated enough to warp.

I don't know why you say that. Corvettes have had warped rotor problems for years, and that car has huge rotors, and 3/5 the mass of the H3 to stop. Mine warped in one good hard stop on the freeway at 100F. It's probably a GM design or material problem, rather than just the size.

Michael

[f5fstop]

Originally Posted by Michael1

I don't know why you say that. Corvettes have had warped rotor problems for years, and that car has huge rotors, and 3/5 the mass of the H3 to stop. Mine warped in one good hard stop on the freeway at 100F. It's probably a GM design or material problem, rather than just the size.

Michael

I'm sorry to say, but an actual warped rotor was not that common. As I said, the biggest problem with what people call warped rotors is actually pad material causing a high spot.
During our studies, the only rotors that had warping problems were the smaller thin, rotors used on small cars, and then the numbers were not that high.
Can you warp a rotor? Yes, take a factory rotor and autocross all day long, run it on a road course and turn them red, but normal driving makes it almost impossible to warp a large finned rotor.
Ride the H3 down a 13K foot incline and yes, it might warp. Drive it around town and no, unless there was a manufacturing defect. However, when a technician pulls rotor, puts it on a lathe, and checks it, if there are high spots, to him or her, it is warped.
The other big problem with what people say is a warped rotor is lateral runout. That is why GM has published quite a few bulletins in the past on checking lateral runout versus turning a rotor.

I might add, if a rotor is found to be warped, it is usually warped due to installation, not heat. Forget the cross pattern and cock the rotor upon install, and it will eventually wear into a warped condition.

Now, go back to the Toyota forum and bash GM there.

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by Michael1

I don't know why you say that. Corvettes have had warped rotor problems for years, and that car has huge rotors, and 3/5 the mass of the H3 to stop. Mine warped in one good hard stop on the freeway at 100F. It's probably a GM design or material problem, rather than just the size.

Michael

so that 100 degree outside temp is what made all the difference, huh? You so dumb.

You absolutely cannot warp a brake rotor in one braking instance, even if you dragged the brake for 17 years continuously. Heat warping is caused by continuous and repetitive high heat ups and cool downs. Of course, this applies to the typical modern day rotor on most vehicles.

GM has had a problem with warped rotors in the past on trucks mostly on the fronts. With the wierd tire wear and cupping problem with the tires that occurred, over time, the front rotors warped causing a need for them to be turned.