Dead battery, again ... locating parasitic draw

[PARAGON]

Originally Posted by TXSUT

I thought I could get another unbiased opinion from a mechanic friend of mine, so I gave him a call. Turns out that he absolutely hates Optima batteries, says they're just a bunch of ****ty marketing hype. Also said he can't count the times customers have come in with new, dead Optima batteries and once replaced with Interstate batteries, voila, no more problems. So much for an unbiased opinion, huh? LOL! He did concur that the CCA story from the dealership was bull****, though.

I also had an issue with the right rear of the truck sitting lower than the left side, and asked them to level it (Z ratio or whatever it's called). The message the service guy left me said "we adjusted your torsion bars to level the rear." WTF?

He's right. I had one, Phil's had one or two. Sometimes when they come in, one or more of the cylinders are dead. Doesn't matter though, because that yellow top is not getting damaged by you dishcarging it with whatever problem is draining it. That interstate battery will get weaker and weaker the more it's completely discharged.

Also, there's all the other benefits of Optima mat-type batteries.

[usmctopgun]

I am running into this same problem. I had the dealership check the seat switches, but they claimed they were good. I am getting a contant 2amp draw, which kills it if it sits for longer than 7 days. Has anyone else linked the draw to something else?

[mdoyle]

Are there any lights on your dash at all when the key is out? I've got an issue with the ignition switch on mine, sometimes the shift position indicator remains lit and the red battery light stays on when I take the key out.

If I don't reinsert the key and take it out with those lights off, then the battery is dead the next morning. The Dealer said it need an "adjustment" but didn't fix it when it was in for air suspension work.

My suspicion is the switch is damaged and there isn't an adjustment for it.

[usmctopgun]

Not that I know of, but I will verify it when I get back home in a couple of weeks. They actually had to replace the ignition switch right after I got it, because it was causing the whole thing to act up. When the switch went bad, the hummer would start off in second gear, and not shift into fourth. Not sure how an ingnition switch should affect the transmission, but it did. I'll check into that, but if not, I'll be back in a couple of weeks with more questions. Thanks.

Originally Posted by mdoyle

Are there any lights on your dash at all when the key is out? I've got an issue with the ignition switch on mine, sometimes the shift position indicator remains lit and the red battery light stays on when I take the key out.

If I don't reinsert the key and take it out with those lights off, then the battery is dead the next morning. The Dealer said it need an "adjustment" but didn't fix it when it was in for air suspension work.

My suspicion is the switch is damaged and there isn't an adjustment for it.

[Drainbamaged]

Originally Posted by usmctopgun

They actually had to replace the ignition switch right after I got it, because it was causing the whole thing to act up. When the switch went bad, the hummer would start off in second gear, and not shift into fourth. Not sure how an ingnition switch should affect the transmission, but it did.

There is a 22 awg white wire (2nd ignition) that supplies power to the transmission controller when the ignition is turned on. If the ignition was not making contact with that wire you would have shifting problems like starting in 2nd gear and not shifting into other gears.

Originally Posted by mdoyle

sometimes the shift position indicator remains lit and the red battery light stays on when I take the key out.

If I don't reinsert the key and take it out with those lights off, then the battery is dead the next morning. The Dealer said it need an "adjustment" but didn't fix it when it was in for air suspension work.

There is no adjustment that i know of for this problem. The problem you are having is that your ignition switch is actually still making contact to that 22 awg white wire and keeping the 2nd ignition hot. I have had run into problems like this when i was installing remote starter systems into GM trucks.

[BITURBOAMG]

Did this ever get worked out? I am having in issue with the dash saying battery not charging and the batt light on. I have changed the batt and alt and get the same issue? I have no clue what is going on but I have always had problems with the batt light, odo and radio staying on after I take the key out and open the door. I have to lock unlock the truck and open another door for it to turn off. Any info or tips would help.

[ree]

Originally Posted by BITURBOAMG

Did this ever get worked out?

Unfortunately, no. It happens very rarely.

I have a suspicion that it's something whacked with the cigarette lighter in the center console. The past three times I've had a dead battery, I am certain that I had a device plugged into that jack for power. The prior times, I can't recall if it was the case, but think it might be. There doesn't seem to be any debris in the lighter jack to make contact, though.

Your problem sounds a lot wierder.