Warm "No Start" issue.

[Markee]

I've found that it has been difficult to manage these repairs from so far away. Normally if I had it here in town I would just go bitch in person to keep things moving along. After your comments about the transmission I called the dealership to discuss other options. Apparently the new transmission is in transit right now and will be arriving next week. So I decided to not even bring it up. the whole thing has been torturous so far and I didn't want to add to that.

I would be interested to learn about this other transmission option though. I have it in my plans to buy another H! that is a slantback and get it stretched by 200". So I may run into the same issues with that.

[hmcoleap]

I think the conversations surrounding the upgraded 4L80E's may have centered around a company called "JET" ? Not positive... I know that those are the guys I talked to when I was weighing my transmission replacement options a few years ago.

I actually had some lengthy discussions with some transmission experts a few years ago when I replaced mine that made me decide to go with a stock replacement instead - not for financial reasons, but because they convinced me that the standard version was better... some interesting differences in opinions out there about "hardened" gears that are rated for higher HP breaking sooner vs. softer metal that gives a little, etc.

[hmcoleap]

Originally Posted by Markee

I.... I have it in my plans to buy another H! that is a slantback and get it stretched by 200". So I may run into the same issues with that.

If it is a real 2000 factory slantback, don't cut it - there were less than 40 of those made!

[smitham]

If you are looking for more info on the 4L80E trans go to LS1Tech.com and look around there. There are guys using them in camaros that make over 1000hp. They are GM 4 speed computer controled version of the Turbo 400. They have a lot of people building them.

[BlueHUMMERH2]

Originally Posted by hmcoleap

If it is a real 2000 factory slantback, don't cut it - there were less than 40 of those made!

I agree!

[Carbine]

Might want to make sure that you have a solid corrosion free connection from the block to the ground. Sounds like it. Take off your passenger seat and take a look at the batteries and make sure that the connections are clean and tight. Right next to the batteries should be a shunt, if they are anything like the Military ones that shunt should be corrosion free as well.
Think of it like this. Turn on a flashlight and now turn it off. You have power going to the flashlight but no ground, so likewise before you snap diagnose check all of those connections. Bad connections make for a weaker starter. Check Voltage drop. You can check the voltage drop from the battery to the starter and droppage tells you either a corroded cable or bad terminal connections along that starter wire.

[HUMTECH]

Agreed, bad grounds can cause many gremlins. One fix I have done to many H-1's is to run A new ground wire from G-1 to G-4. G-1 is your underhood ground bus and G-4 is your under dash ground bus. Simply drill A hole under hood by your hood lock cable and run A new ground wire from the under hood ground bus to the under dash bus, located on the left side just above your kick panel. Just from experience fixed many "strange" electrical problems by adding the extra ground. Also make sure to fill the hole drilled with silicone when done or you end up with A water leak above your fuse panel, not good.