Bump stop extender

[H3slate]

How about these for bump stops.


You can get them here, http://www.lightracing.com/lightracing25870.html

I think that these are probably geared more towards racing and high speed jumps as opposed to rock crawling.

[tomp]

Anyone else here thinking Bebe needs to add these? Let's see, cranked up the front and rear away from the OEM stops.....Hmmmm - me thinks these are in order

[HummBebe]

Originally Posted by H3slate

How about these for bump stops.


You can get them here, http://www.lightracing.com/lightracing25870.html

I think that these are probably geared more towards racing and high speed jumps as opposed to rock crawling.

THOSE ARE THE ONES I FOUND BUT COULD NOT FIND AGAIN!!!!!!


THANKS YOU!!!!!!!

[Stevenblanca]

Those look great. however I see this problem:

If you install longer shocks like the cognito/bilstein, with this bumpstop, the upper (A) control arm will hit the bump stop bracket at full droop. This will not be a problem if you have a short shock like the original hummer shock. However the hummer shocks limits travel with a lifted H3. Maybe another way of mounting the bracket could help.

Thanks great BS (Bump Stop),

[tomp]

Steve,
There is not that much travel back towards the frame rail. Most of the movement is out towards the end of the control arms where the wheel is. Look at it this way - you crank the TBs to raise the front 2-3 inches and this does not even move the bump stops off the control arms but less than a 1/2".

[Stevenblanca]

Just went out and measured. I have 4 turns on the TB and have a 1/2 inch gap between the bumpstop and the A-arm, just like you said. However the upper controll arm is also just about 1/2 inch away from bump stop bracket.

I plan to go 8 turns and cognito shocks. I think that combination would just be the ticket to hit the bracket on a droop. If you still think this will not be the case please let me know.

Looking at the bump stop bracket I can see a cheap solution. You could just cut the front part of the bumpstop bracket. Just were the bulge is. This part is not welded to the rest and is only attached at the bottom. This way you will get about 1/2 inch more of space for the A-arm to move closer to the frame. As you said previously the gain at the outer end of the A-arm would be much greater.

After that you could just buy a larger size bump stop rubber to cover the +- 1 inch gap. The bumpstop should be a high quality progressive type that can compress 2 inches or more so not to limit travel. I think I'll go that route. I will probably also need longer connecting rods for the swaybar.

The discussion here is great. I apreciate it.

P.S. a word of caution . Cutting part of the bumpstop bracket, as explained above, may cause the shaft of the inner tie rod to hit the outer edge of its fastener and break at full droop. Thats another problem without solution for now.

The discussion here is great. I apreciate it.