Fresh cut rotors...and new pads...

[HumminNBoatin']

What kind of pads did you put on?? I have had nothing but trouble with break pads from Advance Auto Parts. I cannot remember the brand name they carry. I have always had luck with NAPA Gold Ceramic pads though!

[H2ummer]

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface.

This usually involves making 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop. When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete. The brake pad OEM may have specific instructions for doing this.

Failure to bed in your pads may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film.

Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors.

[Easy Ed]

The two threaded holes are for removing the rotors if they have been on for a while.

And reason for the rotor to move is that the wheel holds it in place which is a good reason to torque the lug nuts to spec (135 ft. lbs.) and in the proper pattern to keep the rotor/wheel from being tightened un-even.

[jroman201]

thanks for the info about the 135lb torque spec...i will bring it in to get em tightened the right way...

still dont know the name of the pads...will update...

thanks again...

[jroman201]

tryin to look for the bolt pattern...cant find it...

[jroman201]

the manual says 140lbs...and yes i found the bolt pattern...going now to the mech to check it out...thanks...

[Easy Ed]

Funny thing, just checked the 2003 service manual and it shows 125 ft. lbs. and you are right, the owners manual shows 140 ft. lb. and I think this is why I went with the 135 ft. lb., to error on the high side without going to the high side Got over 80,000 miles on the truck and have rotated the tires every 3-5000 miles with the oil changes and haven't broke anything yet

Good luck, Ed

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by H2ummer

Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

Just for my knowledge, what does applying the parking brake have to do with the front brakes???

Inquiring minds want to know.

Mark

[H2ummer]

Originally Posted by OrangeCrush

Just for my knowledge, what does applying the parking brake have to do with the front brakes???

Inquiring minds want to know.

Mark

Absolutely nothing. BUT, he did not say he replaced ONLY the fronts. He said he only had squealing from the the fronts. So to cover all the bases, it is still a valid statement.

[OrangeCrush]

Originally Posted by H2ummer

Absolutely nothing. BUT, he did not say he replaced ONLY the fronts. He said he only had squealing from the the fronts. So to cover all the bases, it is still a valid statement.

How is it a valid statement if it has "absolutely nothing" to do with it? LOL

I don't care, I'm just trying to figure out the logic...lol.

Mark

[jroman201]

well...i had the mech remove the bolts...remove the tire...and then replace and retighten the bolts in the correct pattern and to 140lbs...i watched them from 2 ft away to make sure...

nevertheless...the squealing is still there...

just a few more things to add...

the squealing was occurring on the stock pads with stock rotors from 29k to 45k but was not unbearable and would come and go...alot of highway miles with the radio CRANKED too...

i had plenty of meat on the pads too...approx. 6 or 7mm i am guessing...when they came off...

I am going to take a shot in the dark and say that the rotors need to be replaced...and stock pads put on...due to the amount of time that passed it may have warped them ever so slightly...

the tires rotated front to back only as well...cant blame it on them...

the set screw question was answered...thanks...

if it is all replaced back to stock and the squealing still exists...what then...??...maybe an axle issue...??...i dunno...

thanks for all the help...

[solarflare]

The squeal is coming from the brake pad which moves against the caliper ever so slightly. I went nuts when I changed my Dodge Ram brake pads....wouldn't stop squealing. You can go to an auto parts store and purchase an item that is usually called brake quiet, or something to that effect. What it is, is a spray that goes onto the back side of the brake pad....the side that touches the caliper (DO NOT put this on the pad side). It is usually a blue color and you want to spray in a well ventilated area. You spray it on and let it dry for about 30 minutes. It gives the back side of the pad a rubber coating, which when installed against the caliper, makes it so the pad doesn't move against it, causing the squeal when you stop. Trust me, it's nice!!!!! No more squeal killing your ears.

[TXSUT]

Originally Posted by H2ummer

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface.

This usually involves making 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop. When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete. The brake pad OEM may have specific instructions for doing this.

Failure to bed in your pads may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film.

Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors.

You cut and paste so well.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85