E&G Fender Flares Install

[KenP]

Ok, you've seen the pics and here's the scoop on the install.

First off, I would suggest NOT starting with the rear as the instructions do. The fronts are so much easier that you'll have a feel for doing the more difficult rear. And the only difficult part is lining up the panels to the mud flaps.

The instructions came and were very clear. However, I did add a couple of stainless screws to the rear flaps and left the inner mud flat liner off. I also changed a few things on the rear install.

With that in mind I'll start at the front.

FRONT:

With the hood open, use regular masking tape in a couple of places on the stock flare along the outside against the fender to hold it in place. Only about a 1/4" of tape should be on the painted surface. I also used a few pieces across the stock flare going into the fender well to keep it from moving.

Remove the stock screws and one plastic push pin. Position new flare over stock flare and screw into place. Tear the tape off that extends into the fender well.

DO NOT DRILL FOR OUTSIDE SCREWS, YET!

Remove flare at front door. Do not mark it at this time. Cut about 1 1/2"'s from the end on the lower end. Effectively cutting the flare short so it no longer reaches the "under door" flare. Reposition the flare using the screw holes and tape it in place not exceeding the 1/4" tape on paint.

Place new flare, and endcap over the stock flare and use existing screws and plugs to hold in place.

REAR:

You have to assemble the two rear pieces per side using the provided double sided tape prior to installation. Secure with two tap screws on the underside. You can always wait until after you're finished to do this part.

Remove factory arch and trim about 1" from the rear most portion of the flare.

STOP AT THIS POINT BECAUSE I DON'T FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM HERE!

DO NOT DRILL INTO THE TRUCK YET!

This is where it gets tricky. You need to mount the mud flaps so they align properly, but the intructions tell you to go ahead and screw into the body mounting the flares.

After test fitting everything I wasn't happy with what I saw.

This is what I found worked best and it's not what the directions state:

Position the mud flap into place on top of the bumper and by pushing it as far rearward as you can making it snug against the bumper cover. Hold it and screw into place on the TOP only using TWO supplied truss screws. Don't worry about the bottom, yet.

Remount the stock rear flare using the same techniques as before. I, again, used tape to secure the flare from moving side to side. Position and install the new flare using the stock hardware.

NOW ONTO THE FLAP:

You already have the top mounted so push the lower part of the flap to the rear. If it lines up with the factory push fastener, pull them out and use them to hold the flap in.

Mine weren't even close so I used stainless screws to attach the flap to the bumper cover and inner fender well. It's very secure now.

I also found that I couldn't get the flap and flare to line up on the driver's side. It turns out all it took was a gentle push on the bumper cover and a couple of stainless screws to align it perfectly. All hidden, of course.

Use the supplied truss screws to attach the bottom of the mud flap to the corner bumper cover.

[KenP]

Now for the extra stuff.

I left a few little things out about the push fasteners, but I broke the ones that came with the kit and saved the ones we removed from the truck. I used SS screws in a few extra places, such as the mud flap area, under the leading edge of the rear flares and the following edge of the front flares. Everything is nice and tight, secure.

This is a small pic of the front driver's side inner well. You can see we used all the stock fasteners and the extra coverage the flares add.

[KenP]

Now it's time to drill into your 60k vehicle!

With everything secure from below, go around the vehicle very carefully checking all the locations of the holes to be drilled. If the flares don't look quite right, move them as best you can and secure them with tape.

THIS IS THE LAST CHANCE YOU HAVE TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS!

I found the flares lined up nicely on the outside and very little adjustment was needed.

Now take a 9/32 bit and drill away. Here's a tip: Put a piece of rubber hose on the drill near the chuck. That way if you BUST through the truck you won't scratch anything.

You'll zip right through the fiberglass, so be careful.

[KenP]

After drilling into your beautiful truck you have to protect it. I used RTV silicone with a very small opening and squirted it into, and on, each and every drill hole on the body. I also put some on each body fastener before screwing it in.

The screws are "Tamper Proof" and a PITA! They only have three sides to them so be careful. They strip easily. If you have to discard one, there are no extras. Use a stainless steel screw in its place in an area low and out of the way so it's not seen.

DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!

I added a couple of SS screws to the underside of the flares where they meet up with the stock ones in the above pic. I also used a couple in the rear fenderwell to give some additional strength to the mud flaps.

[KenP]

Front.

Any questions?... Other than why I posted the same pic twice?...

I'll run out and grab a pic of whatever you need. Just let me know.

[rodster]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by KenP:
Now it's time to drill into your 60k vehicle! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ugh. I remember drilling the first hole and it sucked! After the first few holes it was easy going but dang, that first one was not fun.

Looks great, Ken!

[KenP]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rodster:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by KenP:
Now it's time to drill into your 60k vehicle! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Ugh. I remember drilling the first hole and it sucked! After the first few holes it was easy going but dang, that first one was not fun.

Looks great, Ken! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>No kidding. When I penetrated the first hole I fell right in and hit the flare. Sort of like the first slu.... It's easy after that.

[MONSTERMATT]

post a pic of the whole thing willya!!!! it looks good im looking into this as i dont want the stickout look when get the truck and lift it

[VTSTOMPER]

Looks great Ken! Have any side shots of the finished product?

[NJ H2]

Very Nice! I luv that look! Nice job and instructions!

[KenP]

Let's see what we have here.

[KenP]

You can see how far the tires stick out in this pic. I think they look about right.

[KenP]

Last one you greedy little monkeys.

[VTSTOMPER]

WOWZA!

That is one mean truck! It looks really, really nice!

Congrats on the sweet ride!!

[shipbldr]

Bravo! Clap Clap!!

Very nice ... give me lots of good ideas

And...

Lucky for you, I keep a bucket of Paragon mud at my house "for emergency use"... I'll be right over. We can take care of the "clean" problem before too many other people see it...

It's going to be so sweet to get that truck off road!

[Fubar]

Great job Ken, thanks for walking everyone threw the process

[NoMoGMPG]

Very clean install. Looks <span class="ev_code_WHITE">MOAB!</span>excellent.

[JamesT]

ME WANT!

[VTSTOMPER]

Yep. Taking off my back tire/wheel. After seeing these I really want to do it.