KenP
11-25-2005, 05:08 AM
Ok, you've seen the pics and here's the scoop on the install.
First off, I would suggest NOT starting with the rear as the instructions do. The fronts are so much easier that you'll have a feel for doing the more difficult rear. And the only difficult part is lining up the panels to the mud flaps.
The instructions came and were very clear. However, I did add a couple of stainless screws to the rear flaps and left the inner mud flat liner off. I also changed a few things on the rear install.
With that in mind I'll start at the front.
FRONT:
With the hood open, use regular masking tape in a couple of places on the stock flare along the outside against the fender to hold it in place. Only about a 1/4" of tape should be on the painted surface. I also used a few pieces across the stock flare going into the fender well to keep it from moving.
Remove the stock screws and one plastic push pin. Position new flare over stock flare and screw into place. Tear the tape off that extends into the fender well.
DO NOT DRILL FOR OUTSIDE SCREWS, YET!
Remove flare at front door. Do not mark it at this time. Cut about 1 1/2"'s from the end on the lower end. Effectively cutting the flare short so it no longer reaches the "under door" flare. Reposition the flare using the screw holes and tape it in place not exceeding the 1/4" tape on paint.
Place new flare, and endcap over the stock flare and use existing screws and plugs to hold in place.
REAR:
You have to assemble the two rear pieces per side using the provided double sided tape prior to installation. Secure with two tap screws on the underside. You can always wait until after you're finished to do this part.
Remove factory arch and trim about 1" from the rear most portion of the flare.
STOP AT THIS POINT BECAUSE I DON'T FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM HERE!
DO NOT DRILL INTO THE TRUCK YET!
This is where it gets tricky. You need to mount the mud flaps so they align properly, but the intructions tell you to go ahead and screw into the body mounting the flares.
After test fitting everything I wasn't happy with what I saw.
This is what I found worked best and it's not what the directions state:
Position the mud flap into place on top of the bumper and by pushing it as far rearward as you can making it snug against the bumper cover. Hold it and screw into place on the TOP only using TWO supplied truss screws. Don't worry about the bottom, yet.
Remount the stock rear flare using the same techniques as before. I, again, used tape to secure the flare from moving side to side. Position and install the new flare using the stock hardware.
NOW ONTO THE FLAP:
You already have the top mounted so push the lower part of the flap to the rear. If it lines up with the factory push fastener, pull them out and use them to hold the flap in.
Mine weren't even close so I used stainless screws to attach the flap to the bumper cover and inner fender well. It's very secure now.
I also found that I couldn't get the flap and flare to line up on the driver's side. It turns out all it took was a gentle push on the bumper cover and a couple of stainless screws to align it perfectly. All hidden, of course.
Use the supplied truss screws to attach the bottom of the mud flap to the corner bumper cover.
First off, I would suggest NOT starting with the rear as the instructions do. The fronts are so much easier that you'll have a feel for doing the more difficult rear. And the only difficult part is lining up the panels to the mud flaps.
The instructions came and were very clear. However, I did add a couple of stainless screws to the rear flaps and left the inner mud flat liner off. I also changed a few things on the rear install.
With that in mind I'll start at the front.
FRONT:
With the hood open, use regular masking tape in a couple of places on the stock flare along the outside against the fender to hold it in place. Only about a 1/4" of tape should be on the painted surface. I also used a few pieces across the stock flare going into the fender well to keep it from moving.
Remove the stock screws and one plastic push pin. Position new flare over stock flare and screw into place. Tear the tape off that extends into the fender well.
DO NOT DRILL FOR OUTSIDE SCREWS, YET!
Remove flare at front door. Do not mark it at this time. Cut about 1 1/2"'s from the end on the lower end. Effectively cutting the flare short so it no longer reaches the "under door" flare. Reposition the flare using the screw holes and tape it in place not exceeding the 1/4" tape on paint.
Place new flare, and endcap over the stock flare and use existing screws and plugs to hold in place.
REAR:
You have to assemble the two rear pieces per side using the provided double sided tape prior to installation. Secure with two tap screws on the underside. You can always wait until after you're finished to do this part.
Remove factory arch and trim about 1" from the rear most portion of the flare.
STOP AT THIS POINT BECAUSE I DON'T FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS FROM HERE!
DO NOT DRILL INTO THE TRUCK YET!
This is where it gets tricky. You need to mount the mud flaps so they align properly, but the intructions tell you to go ahead and screw into the body mounting the flares.
After test fitting everything I wasn't happy with what I saw.
This is what I found worked best and it's not what the directions state:
Position the mud flap into place on top of the bumper and by pushing it as far rearward as you can making it snug against the bumper cover. Hold it and screw into place on the TOP only using TWO supplied truss screws. Don't worry about the bottom, yet.
Remount the stock rear flare using the same techniques as before. I, again, used tape to secure the flare from moving side to side. Position and install the new flare using the stock hardware.
NOW ONTO THE FLAP:
You already have the top mounted so push the lower part of the flap to the rear. If it lines up with the factory push fastener, pull them out and use them to hold the flap in.
Mine weren't even close so I used stainless screws to attach the flap to the bumper cover and inner fender well. It's very secure now.
I also found that I couldn't get the flap and flare to line up on the driver's side. It turns out all it took was a gentle push on the bumper cover and a couple of stainless screws to align it perfectly. All hidden, of course.
Use the supplied truss screws to attach the bottom of the mud flap to the corner bumper cover.