View Full Version : Express Sunroof Help Wanted -- Las Vegas Jonahs where are you?
tower
03-27-2005, 12:32 AM
Is it me? Did I screw up the install. get a bad module or did I just not know that this is how it works?
When I let the sunroof stop itself (regardless of open or vent position), and I go to close it, I need to duble click the button to get anything to happen. Sme thing if I have had the vent open and click to close and let it stop. When I try to open, I need to double click. Is this just an issue with the logic of the circuit or do I have a faulty connection or module.
t~
tower
03-27-2005, 12:32 AM
Is it me? Did I screw up the install. get a bad module or did I just not know that this is how it works?
When I let the sunroof stop itself (regardless of open or vent position), and I go to close it, I need to duble click the button to get anything to happen. Sme thing if I have had the vent open and click to close and let it stop. When I try to open, I need to double click. Is this just an issue with the logic of the circuit or do I have a faulty connection or module.
t~
LasVegas
03-27-2005, 02:51 AM
No tower, that's not correct as you have discribed if I understand what you're saying. There are time you have to press the button twice. Let me think http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gif Do you have the convenient stops?? If it's doing it there, that may be correct. I don't have the convenient stops the manual talks about but there is one situation where I have to press the button twice. I can't remember and I can't check right now because my console is torn apart on another project. I'll check tomorrow when it's back together & let you know. I do know from the normal closed position I only have to press once to either vent, or open. I think if I stop it somewhere in between open & close and want to reverse the direction I have to press twice....I think. Let you know.
LasVegas
03-27-2005, 03:18 AM
Trade you projects tower. Here's my latest. Tire pressure/temp in the middle, EGT (exhaust gas temperature) on the right, CHT (cylinder head temperature) on the left, & those two gauges are behind smoked glass. The lights above are air/fuel ratio indicators for each engine bank with a rocker switch to turn them off if they bug you. This is acutally photochop image, not the real install. I'm 80% through the modification & it's MAJOR work but will look better than the picture. Taking some real inginuity to make it all come together.
tower
03-27-2005, 04:40 AM
Wow! That looks awesome! I can't wait for the real photos. I like your Hummer Parking Only sign.
Yes, I have the 3 "incinvenience" stops. I guess GM figured I wasn't smart enough to let go of the buttom if I wanted the roof partially open. Doh!
My next big project involves lights and sirens.
Thanks,
t~
LasVegas
03-27-2005, 04:43 AM
Sirens??? http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_confused.gif Can you elaborate? What kind of lights?
LasVegas
03-27-2005, 05:07 AM
Doooohhh. Now I get the siren. Obviously based on your avatar you have something to do with emergency services. How dumb can I get. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_frown.gif
tower
03-27-2005, 03:12 PM
No worries. What I really need in my truck are more sirens of the Greek Mythological type. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif
LasVegas
03-27-2005, 03:33 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tower:
No worries. What I really need in my truck are more sirens of the Greek Mythological type. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That's sireeeens
tower
03-27-2005, 03:52 PM
LOL!
LasVegas
03-28-2005, 01:48 AM
Well tower here's how far I've gotten so far. My air/fuel ratio lights will go above the console but they're on order & haven't got here yet. The gauge on the left is cyl head temp, center is tire pressure/temp monitor & on right is exhaust gas temp. That doesn't show up well in this picture because they sent me LCD black rather than color so I'll be replacing it and it will show up like the cyl head temp. What do you think so far?? Oh, this is bronze glass. When I replace the gauge it will be black glass.
tower
03-28-2005, 04:56 AM
VERY sexy! I'm trying to figure out switch placement. Is that glass custom fabricated?
I'm not crazy about how little room there is in that overhead console for switches. The waterproof switchplate that came with my diagnostic fuse/relay bloc is pretty tall. I will need to either install it below the IP to the left of the steering column, tilted slightly upward, on the overhead tilted downward or have half above and half below the lateral part of the cowl over the gauges. I’m thinking of building a short housing to sit atop that gauge cowl.
LasVegas
03-28-2005, 05:02 AM
tower....that's actually 1/8" smoked plastic. I hand cut it. Just veery time consuming. The console is slightly curved & you can heat the plastic with a hair dryer & contour to fit. When I replace the egt gauge I'll use black smoke. This is bronze. Yes, the console is small & mine is as full as you can get it. No room left. When I'm done I think is will look pretty cool & functional.
LV, that's pretty sweet. I can't wait to see the final pics and read about the install. BTW, that hair is still on your dash. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_razz.gif
LasVegas
03-28-2005, 05:16 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I'm not crazy about how little room there is in that overhead console for switches. The waterproof switchplate that came with my diagnostic fuse/relay bloc is pretty tall. I will need to either install it below the IP to the left of the steering column, tilted slightly upward, on the overhead tilted downward or have half above and half below the lateral part of the cowl over the gauges. I’m thinking of building a short housing to sit atop that gauge cowl </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
As big as H2s are there just isn't much room on the IP for additional gauges, switches, etc. And I hate to just add them in a space that doesn't look like it's designed for. You might post a pic of your switchplate and maybe we all can come up with some ideas. Is there a reason you have to be waterproof?
LasVegas
03-28-2005, 05:17 AM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by KenP:
LV, that's pretty sweet. I can't wait to see the final pics and read about the install. BTW, that hair is still on your dash. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_razz.gif </div></BLOCKQUOTE>The install is a bitch but I had to engineer as I went. And that hair still didn't come from my head. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif
tower
03-28-2005, 05:20 AM
Join Roxie and me in the chat room! Are you coming to Moab?
tower
03-28-2005, 05:56 AM
I think I lost the chat room link. The panel is about 5" tall, 7" wide and 3/4" deep. I'll post a photo in a second.
LasVegas
03-28-2005, 06:02 AM
Yeah..lost you in the room
tower
03-28-2005, 07:14 AM
LVJ,
Here are the dimensions. Details at this URL:
http://www.tst-corp.com/pdfs/ttcs10.pdf
LasVegas
03-28-2005, 07:59 PM
tower....based on what I can see I know what I would do. I would either take the switches out or cut the face plate in half horizonally & mount them across the upper console. Would look cool! But, lots of work.
tower
03-29-2005, 03:10 AM
Briliant idea! I'll take a look at the panel and see if either are feasable. Here is one crappy alternative (looks cheesey).
tower
03-29-2005, 03:15 AM
Another crappy alternative.
LasVegas
03-29-2005, 03:31 AM
The second alternative is best but still looks kinda add-on. If that panel comes apart and the switches/leds come out in tact you could make a panel out of plastic like mine or whatever material you like and mount it all up on the upper console. That would be a lot of precise hole cutting so you could take it to a wood working shop & they could set up a router jig. Probably some solder work too but I don't know what it looks like inside. I know it would look good up there and look like factory install. Hey, where did you get that black instrument cluster? Or is that just a pic of an '05?
tower
03-29-2005, 09:19 AM
I'll hace a look at the switch panel later today. Yeah, I (badly) photoshopped together 2 stock dash photos (see L side of radio).
LasVegas
03-30-2005, 12:39 AM
I like this tower but I'm prejudice.
LasVegas
03-30-2005, 12:46 AM
or this...diff color
tower
03-30-2005, 03:46 AM
HA_HA_HA!!! Agreed. VERY sweet! Also very thoughtful of you (even moved the legends, I see). I didn't get to it today. Tomorrow, if I can open it without trashing it, I will. Otherwise, I'll call TST to find out how much to swap the one they gave me for a custom linear arrayed panel.
While I've got you, any thoughts on where to mount the beast of a PDB (power distribution box)? Dimensions are attached. Here is the URL.
http://www.tst-corp.com/pdfs/ttcs10.pdf
Ideally, it should be mounted so that the 7+ x 10+ top (widest aspect) is visible for diagnostics. I’m thinking over one of the wheel wells. It’s been a while since I pulled out the utility trays over the wheels. I don’t recall how much room there was. Also, I could probably cut the box down from ~4” to ~3”, but I don’t know if that would help. Also, if it’s a clean dry location that won’t get impacted, I could probably trash the box altogether. These systems are designed for fire trucks and vans, where e- space is more readily available than on our H2’s.
Thanks for all your help!
Think MOAB!!!
LasVegas
03-30-2005, 03:57 AM
Is this box something you would want to get to on a "regular" basis??
tower
03-30-2005, 04:01 AM
Great question. Inintially, I would be adding devices to it. Ultimately, only if there were an electrical problem to diagnose or repair.
LasVegas
03-30-2005, 04:10 AM
From what I read on their spec sheet it can be mounted about anywhere environmentally. For wiring purposes I would think 1. under the hood somewhere 2. under the dash on the firewall drivers side (there would be room I think) or 3. Under the rear seat on a pull out tray. All three options would be out of sight and except for under dash easy access.
tower
03-30-2005, 04:17 AM
Those are all good. I guess the most convenient would be under the seat. But thats also where I keep my long tools (snow brush-squegee-ice scraper, wrecking bar, etc.), so I would need to check for how much space it will leave. Under the hood could work, but I'm still looking to see where I'll put the 2 Optimas and Isolator (yes, I've seen the posts here).
Thank you!
tower
04-03-2005, 03:46 PM
Hi, Jonas,
I finally got back to the thing. There’s probably a very slim chance of reconfiguring the existing switches. They are multiplexing switches using a total of 4 leads (including ground) for 8 switches. My guess is that everything is soldered onto a PC board. It is definitely potted in epoxy and then immersed in silicon. I think it's designed for fire trucks and is made "hose proof." I will try to reach TST this week. They say they can custom configure these panels, but costs could get ugly. I'll keep you posted.
LasVegas
04-03-2005, 04:07 PM
I was afraid of that. Somehow I thought that's what you would find. Sure would look good though. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif
LasVegas
04-03-2005, 10:19 PM
tower~ your original question was on having to press the switch twice. It appears that if the sunroof comes to a LIMIT stop & you want to reverse the direction you have to press the switch twice. I don't like guessing but here's my best guess. There's logic built into both the H2 actuator motor and in the AutoLoc module. Probably what's happening is that when it comes to an H2 limit it prevails. The autoloc still thinks the sunroof is moving. Therefore, the first press resets the autoloc module & the second press actuates the sunroof motor. For some reason mine doesn't have the convenient stops so doesn't happen to me often. It's all still easier than holding the switch while it moves IMO.
tower
04-03-2005, 11:03 PM
Jonahs,
I just realized I misspelled your name in my last post. Sorry about that.
I'm going NUTS!!! I just bought my third rechargeable flashlight, hoping I might find somewhere really handy to mount it in the truck. (You know, for when you need to stop for someone you just know is going to be trouble). Among the items I had in the Tahoe (fire extinguisher, switchplate, flashlights, HAM radio, etc.) I am unable to find good mounting places for anything in the H2. I am about to blow a head gasket!!! http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_mad.gif
PARAGON
04-03-2005, 11:12 PM
Tower, just outboard of the front seats on the B-pillar. You can mount something like a small extinguisher or a flashlight on each side there. There is also a little ledge in the plastic just above seat high on the B-pillar that cold be utilized for something.
LasVegas
04-03-2005, 11:20 PM
LOL....boy isn't that the truth t~. As big as H2s are when you start looking around to mount/attach things there just isn't many places. I have a BIG 6 cell Hummer flashlight (big square thing) that I just sit in that recess up on the rear trim panel. Works fine there.
tower
04-03-2005, 11:54 PM
Thank you Paragon & Jonahs.
P, which aspect of the B pillar are you suggesting, the forward one or the one facing the center of the vehicle? I will take another look after your reply. The B pillar fascia just seemed really flimsy for mounting a heavy light. Perhaps with a backer plate it might be all right.
LVJ, right now I use that area for disposable gloves, bandages and dressings. I wouldn't moving them somewhere else, but finding a place in the cargo bay isn't really what I’m after. (Remember, Jonahs, I only ask you the really tough questions.) My earlier post probably was a little too cryptic, but I want to mount it so that the light is in my hand either BEFORE or at least AS I exit the truck. Now work you magic for me, Whiz-Kid!
tower
04-03-2005, 11:57 PM
BTW, Jonahs,
Did you put that carpet in the utility tray in the photo? My '03 is just plastic.
PARAGON
04-04-2005, 11:32 AM
There is a little cover in the plastic trim about shoulder high or so. You can pop that off and mount to the metal. I suspect that in the initial design they had it setup where the seatbelts were attached to the B-pillar instead of from the seat. Also, if you look the at little "ledge" and imagine that is where there would be an opening in the top to allow the seatbelt to go through and the seatbelt retractor would be housed below that.
LasVegas
04-04-2005, 01:41 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tower:
BTW, Jonahs,
Did you put that carpet in the utility tray in the photo? My '03 is just plastic. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>t~ That's upholstry material you can buy at PepBoys in different colors. Also get the spray on adhesive there, either removable or permanent. I used removable. Just cut to fit, spray & attach. I did all those cubby holes in my H2 including the doors. Seems like everything I thru in them rattled.
tower
04-04-2005, 05:51 PM
Thank you, Paragon.
Thank you, Jonahs.
You guys are terrific! http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_cool.gif
LasVegas
04-04-2005, 10:22 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by PARAGON:
Tower, just outboard of the front seats on the B-pillar. You can mount something like a small extinguisher or a flashlight on each side there. There is also a little ledge in the plastic just above seat high on the B-pillar that cold be utilized for something. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>t~ I think this is what Paragon is talking about & looks like a good place if your equip. is not too large.
LasVegas
04-04-2005, 10:25 PM
Here's some instructions on removing the trim:
1. Remove close out panel at the top of the hinged pillar trim panel using a small flat bladed tool.
2. Remove the retaining screw.
3. Firmly grasp and gently pull to disengage the retaining clips.
4. Disconnect the lower lamp wire connector.
5. Remove the hinge pillar trim from the vehicle.
6. Inspect for broken or missing retaining clips and replace as necessary.
tower
04-04-2005, 11:44 PM
I don't know, Jonahs, women are always telling me they are scared because my equipment is too large. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif
Sorry, it was just too good to resist.
Thanks for the help. I'll try it soon. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif
LasVegas
04-04-2005, 11:48 PM
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tower:
I don't know, Jonahs, women are always telling me they are scared because my equipment is too large. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_eek.gif </div></BLOCKQUOTE>LOL Guess I asked for that one. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif
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