Battery problems continued...

[Patriot]

Well, my H2 spent three nights on a test unit to see if any modules "woke up" and drained my battery. My HVAC module woke up once but did not drain my battery. Dealer is going to replace just in case...

It appears that H2's may have modules that can wake up and put a drain on batteries. Further, they can wake up and get "stuck on"...or they can get stuck when you stop the engine. No rhyme or reason either....

The GM spec says they should shut down w/in 25 minutes after shutting off engine.

So...GM and I can chase this problem for ever. I see it as a weakness of the design and NOT very reliable.

So I may be leaning to a dual battery set up.

Drty, I spoke with Wrangler NW and they say the install is straight forward. Have you had any problems???

Can I do the following???: Run both batteries when driving around to make sure they both stay charged. Then, when I park, shut off one battery as a reserve in case a module wakes up and drains battery "A"??? Once I get in, try to start on single battery...if dead, switch in second battery??

[Patriot]

Well, my H2 spent three nights on a test unit to see if any modules "woke up" and drained my battery. My HVAC module woke up once but did not drain my battery. Dealer is going to replace just in case...

It appears that H2's may have modules that can wake up and put a drain on batteries. Further, they can wake up and get "stuck on"...or they can get stuck when you stop the engine. No rhyme or reason either....

The GM spec says they should shut down w/in 25 minutes after shutting off engine.

So...GM and I can chase this problem for ever. I see it as a weakness of the design and NOT very reliable.

So I may be leaning to a dual battery set up.

Drty, I spoke with Wrangler NW and they say the install is straight forward. Have you had any problems???

Can I do the following???: Run both batteries when driving around to make sure they both stay charged. Then, when I park, shut off one battery as a reserve in case a module wakes up and drains battery "A"??? Once I get in, try to start on single battery...if dead, switch in second battery??

[Patriot]

Well, my H2 spent three nights on a test unit to see if any modules "woke up" and drained my battery. My HVAC module woke up once but did not drain my battery. Dealer is going to replace just in case...

It appears that H2's may have modules that can wake up and put a drain on batteries. Further, they can wake up and get "stuck on"...or they can get stuck when you stop the engine. No rhyme or reason either....

The GM spec says they should shut down w/in 25 minutes after shutting off engine.

So...GM and I can chase this problem for ever. I see it as a weakness of the design and NOT very reliable.

So I may be leaning to a dual battery set up.

Drty, I spoke with Wrangler NW and they say the install is straight forward. Have you had any problems???

Can I do the following???: Run both batteries when driving around to make sure they both stay charged. Then, when I park, shut off one battery as a reserve in case a module wakes up and drains battery "A"??? Once I get in, try to start on single battery...if dead, switch in second battery??

[HummMe]

You could definately do that you just need a battery switch. It is a dial and you turn it from battery A to B to BOTH or to OFF. These are installed in most fire trucks and emergencey vehicles and most boats(that have a dual battery setup) If you leave it on both while driving it will charge both batteries then switch to battery A or B when turned off.

[Orbyog]

You could also get a "Battery Buddy" or something like it that will shut everything down if the current gets to low, then flip a switch for the reserve to start the truck. I have been thinking of getting one, it would be alot cheaper also.

[Patriot]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Orbyog:
You could also get a "Battery Buddy" or something like it that will shut everything down if the current gets to low, then flip a switch for the reserve to start the truck. I have been thinking of getting one, it would be alot cheaper also. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Good idea but I also have a winch. The dual set up would also help in that area as well.

[Big Z]

Had a similar problem, turned out to be a Very corroded Positive battery cable, along with a bad battery. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif

[Patriot]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Big Z:
Had a similar problem, turned out to be a Very corroded Positive battery cable, along with a bad battery. http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_smile.gif <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Cable is fine...two batteries killed (OEM and yellow top optima)

[unaslob]

where do you fit a second battery. i have wanted to do a dual setup for some time. winching long pulls with the ignition off can really drain the battery quickly. does anyone have a procedure for doing this... or at least a spot.

unaslob

[PARAGON]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by unaslob:
where do you fit a second battery. i have wanted to do a dual setup for some time. winching long pulls with the ignition off can really drain the battery quickly. does anyone have a procedure for doing this... or at least a spot.

unaslob <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Winching long pulls up a hill with the engine running will drain the battery quickly. I had a brief thought of putting the second over on the passenger side fender in place of the radiator reservoir. Maybe moving the reservoir back further on the fender with some kind of custom flange mount and an extended hose.

I haven't done anything else but have that thought though. I am not even sure if it is possible, but my thinking was one could get a battery mount and put one in the same place on the opposite fender.

[DRTYFN]

Patriot,
I love my dual battery set up. I did have a slight problem with one of the batteries, but Wrangler replaced it. they're dry cell batteries and some how one of them vented. The Odyssey battery rep had never seen anything like it.
Anyway, I highly recommend the set up.

[unaslob]

that is a nice setup.. I never thought of actually getting 2 smaller ones but with more power. i have been envisioning of putting a second one of similar dimensions...

unaslob

[PARAGON]

I want the extra capacity along with the benefits of a "backup" battery and not being sure of how much extra capacity the smaller batteries have, I have only been looking at a setup where I can install two full sized optimas. Otherwise the Wrangler setup is perfect, but I have been too lazy to see what kind of capacity difference there might exist, plus I have a relative new optima already.

[unaslob]

i agree. what about the possibility of placing a battery in the rear of the truck... there is plenty of room under the rear for all kinds of stuff... I have an airtank back there already and am think of putting another one in for more air capacity.

unaslob

[PARAGON]

I have thought about the back. I just worry about running such a heavy guage all the way to the back and it somehow short and start welding **** to the frame. I have the rear air and looked and there is definitely a place to put an optima back there because you can mount them upside down or sideways if needed.

Got any pics of your tank setup and where the disconnects are? I have been thinking about adding a compressor with a tank back there so you have true air and not the puffer that's used for the springs.

[unaslob]

i posted that stuff before but couldnt find it with a search. i recently blew the airline running from the compressor to the tank.

gave me a chance to do some new things... but here are the pics of the tank and the quick-connects. i replaced the quick connects with the same ones plows use. they have rubber caps to keep the dirt out. sand, dirt gummed up mine rendering them useless. plus hadley came out with some rubber mounts and socks to silence the compressor which used to be pretty loud... now runs silent. I also put a switch in the cab to turn the thing off for when I dont want it to run.

unaslob
unaslob

[unaslob]

unaslob

[unaslob]

front

unaslob

[PARAGON]

I thought I remember someone posting something like this before didn't realize it was you. I didn't really look back to see but I remember it now. Your tank is where my stock compressor is and I am thinking of putting a tank like that along the outside of the frame on the passenger side.

I also was thinking of popping a hole in the metal front and rear bumpers to have the pop-ins located there.

[unaslob]

fortunately the departure angle hasnt been an issue yet. I do keep a set of self sealing caps and spacers for the airlines in case I ever break one again. I will have to think about a different spot for when it gets redone again... maybe when I add another tank.. it could easily tuck underneath... but then it is hard to get at when you need to an you run the off chance of pulling the line across the muffler when you are airing up on the right... that would suck...

THINK CAPS!!!! it took all of 8 months to completely gum up the disconnects when sand and pebbles... they make then for plow lines.

unaslob

[Hummie2]

Here is where I mounted my air quick connect next to the hitch reciever. You are right about sand getting in there, I use a small screwdriver to depress the center plunger and blow the dirt out before hooking up the air hose. So far dirt hasn't been a problem (after about 8 months use), I do wash it with the pressure washer when I wash the H2 though and spray a little WD40 on it.
BTW departure angle isn't a problem as my winch fairlead hasn't hit, but notice the drag marks on the right "D" ring.

Don

[unaslob]

nice install.. I found that sand also gummed up the retractable part of the quick connect.. I dont wash my truck too often so that probably nailed me.

got any pics of underneath on how the winch is installed.. that looks pretty tight but dont know what you mounted to with ease without making some big mods...

unaslob

[Hummie2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>I found that sand also gummed up the retractable part of the quick connect.. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have had better luck with the brass quick connectors. Steel ones didn't last very long before they gave problems.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> that looks pretty tight but dont know what you mounted to with ease without making some big mods...
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yeah... it got pretty involved before I got through. That is a M8274 Warn which I already had and it has it's own dedicated battery mounted along side it. The power cables are only 18" long 2ga. so it does't experience much voltage drop during heavy pulls. I pulled battery charging voltage from the trailer recptacle. I built a whole new receiver and winch mount for the project.

[Hummie2]

here is a pic with the bumper removed, you can't see the winch or battery very well though.

[H2Finally]

Hummie2, please check your pm.

[alecs wife]

H2F, the Road Armor rear bumper is designed to support a winch. I will be adding one to mine next year. It will support electric and hydrolic.

[unaslob]

that does look pretty involved.... for me... I will grab a friend and carry the winch to the rear... but if i were to do it all over again.... that would be pretty tight


unaslob

[DRTYFN]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Hummie2:
here is a pic with the bumper removed, you can't see the winch or battery very well though. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

And... how do you get to the clutch handle or untangle the line? Plus, isn't the Haas fairlead pretty exposed to rocks and, well, everything else? Have you considered putting a piece of 1/4" plate under it for protection?


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by unaslob:
that does look pretty involved.... for me... I will grab a friend and carry the winch to the rear... but if i were to do it all over again.... that would be pretty tight


unaslob <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's what 4 ton Come-Alongs are for.http://www.elcova.com/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif

[Hummie2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> And... how do you get to the clutch handle or untangle the line? Plus, isn't the Haas fairlead pretty exposed to rocks and, well, everything else? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
The clutch handle is the lever directly under the reciever.
Haven't had much problem hitting the fairlead yet- thats not saying it won't happen though, but I do have some pretty deep drag marks under the rear axle differential and the rear "D" rings however.

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> Have you considered putting a piece of 1/4" plate under it for protection?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Yes, I had a piece cut to weld in under the winch when I built it, but left it off because I figgured it would be too hard to untangle a pinched line. A piece of 1/4 X 2 flat bar directly under the fairlead would offer some protection for the fairlead however. I will have to put that one on my to-do list, shouldn't take very long- thanks.

Drty... did you get those front mounts in to production yet? I am ready for a front mount soon, after I get heavier torsion bars installed.